EarlSS

A few months back I noticed my car started not wanting to down shift some times and if felt really notchy when shifting. Down shifting into first seems to be the worst when coming to a stop. If I double clutch it it'll downshift into gear. When I double clutch it I can hear like a clucking noise. lol best way I can describe it. My first thought was synchronizers. but here recently my clutch started sticking when just shifting normal. It would only hang about an inch from the top and i'd take my foot and pull it up. Yesterday I pulled into a lot and it stuck to the floor board and wouldn't go in any gear until I pulled it back up with my foot then double clutch it. I checked my fluid in the master cylinder and it looks like muddy water So I think I'll change the fluid and maybe do the drill mod to see if that'll fix it. Do you guys think that'll fix it or do you think its the synchros. Are there any good links on how to do the drill mod and how to flush the master cylinder? and what fluid do I use. I've read dot 3 break fluid but is there any particular brand?

BALLSS

your problem sounds more a hydraulic issue. Look close for leaks MC & Slave. Bleed and replace fluid.

If the problem persists, MC & or slave replacement.

Your notchy shifts and downshift issues can be because clutch isn't disengageing all the way so shifting up/down will be hard or can't shift at all.

EarlSS

Thanks I hope just replacing fluid and bleeding fixes it. Do you know a good how to link to replace and bleed the fluid and what fluid should I get?

luigiandme

iTrader: (2)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b28Ca...ature=youtu.be

Get regular Dot3 brake fluid. Unless you're road coursing the thing, go DOT4 but it should be fine with 3.

EarlSS

Thanks i'm gonna pick up some fluid tomorrow and change it and see if that helps. I've watched so many different videos tonight on different ways to bleed the system I'm hoping I can do it. Hopefully I want have to get a new MC or slave.

EarlSS

Just now got started on taking the master out today to do the drill mod, flush the old fluid and bleed it. I got everything disconnected from under the dash but the master will not budge from the firewall. I can feel the U bolt but only one side of it will wiggle. Any advice on how to get it out?? Also before I started taking anything loose under the dash the peddle was stuck to the floor and was stuck in 1st gear and would not come out. Also if I started the car it would start moving forward with the clutch against the floor.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

If you are having a hard time removing the u bolt you can tap on it lightly from under the dash to help break it loose. Here is my install video. The drill mod is supposed to be for helping slightly with high rpm shifts under WOT. I don't think it's going to help your current problems at all. I would have just started with bleeding the hydraulics good with some new fluid and went from there.

EarlSS

Thanks Knight, I think I'll take your advice and since I don't have the master out yet I'll just hook up what I've unhooked and bleed the system real good and see how that does. Your video is the one I've been using. Great video!

EarlSS

I've been bleeding the system. Seems to be working better. At least I can get the car in and out of gear and the clutch isn't staying engaged. My pedel is still sticking to the floor unless I pump the crap out of it and if I barely push the pedel in it automatically sucks it's self to the floor. Should I continue to try to just flush it or does it sound like something else is wrong?

EarlSS

I tried to bleed the clutch some more today. The clutch got stiff and the car went in and out of the gear fine. I thought I might have it straightened out but I started the car and it seemed fine at first going in and out of gear but seemed to be engaging very close to the floor. I was setting there with the car idling in first gear with clutch pushed to the floor when I felt the car start to pull and it just took off with the clutch pushed all the way in. I had to hit the breaks to kill it to get the car to stop! after that the clutch was still stuck to the floor. I pumped it up again and it got stiff and started shifting in and out of gears again but if you hold pressure on the clutch it will get spongy and sometimes the clutch will pull itself to the floor. I did get brave enough to start the car again so I could move the car over in the drive and it seemed to go in gear fine but still engaging close to the floor and after I moved the car coward a little the clutch got spongy and wouldn't go in gear until I pumped it back up. Do you guys I need to just buy a master or keep trying to bleed this thing or try a different way of bleeding it? I'm bleeding by pumping the clutch then opening the bleeder valve though the floor board. I hold the clutch to floor about 3 seconds after I close the valve.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

If you don't have an external leak (aka the fluid in the clutch reservoir is getting low), it sounds like either the master or slave is getting "bleed by" internally. You can pump up the system to regain pressure, but once you hold down the clutch pedal the seals in the master or slave are letting fluid get by and the system looses more and more pressure resulting in the engagement point getting close to the floor, and then the car just taking off all together even with the clutch pedal pressed all the way down.

Have you tested to see if the master is getting "bleed by" internally by disconnecting the line from the slave and putting some pressure on the clutch pedal for a while to see if the pedal slowly starts sinking down indicating there is an internal master leak? That could rule out the master and point to the slave or vice versa. My best guess is the master or slave are your culprits.

EarlSS

Thanks, yea the reservoir isn't getting low so I don't think I have a leak. I was thinking the same thing about a master or slave having bleed by because it'll be stiff until I hold a little pressure on the clutch then after about 10 seconds it feels like a seal gives out and the clutch goes to nothing and just sinks to the floor. I have not tested the master for bleed by yet. I didn't even know how to test it. I'll try to test it tomorrow. Thanks for all the help man

EarlSS

Thanks for all your help BlueKnight. I've order a Tick MC. Hopefully that'll get me shifting again.

NolaTA

iTrader: (4)

Hey EARLSS were you able to solve your clutch problem with the new Tick MC? The reason I'm asking is because I'm having the exact same problem, I raced a friend with an LT camaro and the clutch hasn't been right since, i did win though. But if that MC fixed your problem then I'll order mine today. Thanks for any help!

EarlSS

Hey man I haven't got my Tick Master yet. I ordered it on the gp and it don't ship until Dec 30th. I saved good money on the mc and got a free speed bleeder! Hope you get your problem straightened out

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like your clutch is struggling to hold your power and an upgraded replacement would help solve the problem, be sure and install a remote bleeder if you go in there. Don't hesitate if you have any questions, Chris 817-750-2000

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

The clutch not disengaging will definitely cause damage to the trans synchros, definitely sounds like your hydraulic fluid is over due for a change. I'd go ahead and put DOT4 in it as it has a higher boiling point, Prestone at Walmart works good and is cheap.

ChrisSingh90

iTrader: (12)

Sounds like slave cylinder is bad. So many people go through the same problem. Everyone resorts to Bleeding the clutch, then drill mod/tick master, then eventually they realize it's the slave.

The master really don't fail on these cars, it's mostly the slave.

Chris,