multmigs

iTrader: (2)

I'm trying to resurrect a 1994 LT-1 M6 car which has just been on the road finally after some clutch install problems..... Anyway all seems to work normally now except for the random times when the shifter gets stuck into 2nd gear and will not easily release. Luckily enough with the position of it being back towards the driver I can pretty easily just hammer forward with the palm of my hand a couple good wacks and then it pops out and I can then select another gear and continue shifting without any problems in any other gears. The transmission was opened recently to install a HD 3/4 shifter fork and just checked in general since it was purchased used. All other internal parts are stock from what I know and saw and all looked very good condition and clean. Using Synchomesh trans oil which has less than 100 miles and a hurst shifter.

What to do besides once again remove trans and open up. I fear the answer will be that the stock plastic shifter pads are the culprit although again they appeared to be brand new and thus were not replaced.

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

i posted this in the LT1 section also and got a reply back that i probably broke a shifter key and should upgrade to billet versions. I kinda think thats not the case since i have barely put 100 miles on this stuff since it was opened up last and at my power level and babyin it i don't see that?

S8ER95Z

iTrader: (3)

Mine was locking in 4th and turned out to a broken/smashed shift key.

. Does the transmission have a warranty?

TDP

iTrader: (23)

You probably have broken, or partially broken keys in the 1/2 syn assembly. We sell billet chromoly keys that will never break. Be sure to carefully inspect the engagement teeth on the gears and sliders. They HAVE TO have nice sharp points, or its not going to work like its supposed to. My info is in the sig below. Call or email to purchase the keys, assuming that is the problem. Only way to know for sure would be to disassemble the trans.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

I don't know if you went through it yourself but if it's stock style keys with the back grooved for the springs, did you properly oppose the springs? Tang of spring 1 into key 1, wound clockwise, then as yousee the other side, tang 2 into key 1 in the opposite direction.

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

I have no idea what any of that means in all honesty..... I don't think I had those parts apart at all, all I was doing was changing out the 3/4 shift fork and checking the condition of all the bears etc. in the attached pics you can see what the parts look like today after teardown. I can't seem to find anything clearly broken, there is very little metallic residue on the case magnets and I'm kinda stumped as to where the brass is coming from.

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

if i'm not being clear the parts are all otherwise stock production parts with no upgrades and I'm not sure of the miles as I bought the whole thing uses from a wrecked supposedly low miles car. I can freely move all the synchros by hand and see that all the keys appear stock and are in place nothing missing or broken looking. Gear teeth same thing so at this point I'm starting to wonder if I was having a shifter issue or what else could be happening.

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

Do you have the stops on the shifter adjusted right?

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

Its a SLP hurst shifter, so it has no stops, i have a stock shifter which i will install when i first put this back in the car.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, you need to pull apart the 1-2 section to inspect the keys. Some fall partially out due to overtravel of the synchro, then the keys get crimped or sheared. If your keys are beat up, talk to TDP. If you need a new 1-2 synchro, I just added a bunch of new ones in the classifieds.

TDP

iTrader: (23)

You have not disassembled the trans completely. You will have to remove every gear from the shaft, and inspect the engagement teeth (not the gear teeth), like mentioned above. It's the only way to really see the condition. This is one of the most important things to look at while looking for problems.
Also, set the rings on the syncro ramps and make sure there is a gap there. Should be approx. 0.080"