Viper input shaft and Mcleod Street twin issue
#1
Viper input shaft and Mcleod Street twin issue
I did a search and found nothing.....was hoping someone else had this issue or had a solution.
Last week I attempted to put a T56 with a viper input shaft and 30 spline output shaft in my 99 trans am. The clutch i have is a Mcleod street twin with an aluminum flywheel, and a Quick time bell housing.
When i attempted to bolt the trans to the back of my bellhousing, it seemed like it was about 1/4" away from mating up, i ran the bolts in figuring it was the dowel pins giving me a hard time. My last trans did the same thing so I thought no big deal. Well after i finished up the install of the Viper input trans, I tried to start the car and it barely turned over. Then i attempted to turn it over by hand and was locked up solid. So I unbolted the trans and slid it back with about a 1/4" gap between the back of the bellhousing and front of the trans case.The engine then spun freely.
Long story short, after tearing the viper input trans out, i noticed that the splines on the input shaft do not extend far enough back causing my Mcleod twin disc to bottom out on the input shaft splines. which then locks my engine up.
Anyone?
Last week I attempted to put a T56 with a viper input shaft and 30 spline output shaft in my 99 trans am. The clutch i have is a Mcleod street twin with an aluminum flywheel, and a Quick time bell housing.
When i attempted to bolt the trans to the back of my bellhousing, it seemed like it was about 1/4" away from mating up, i ran the bolts in figuring it was the dowel pins giving me a hard time. My last trans did the same thing so I thought no big deal. Well after i finished up the install of the Viper input trans, I tried to start the car and it barely turned over. Then i attempted to turn it over by hand and was locked up solid. So I unbolted the trans and slid it back with about a 1/4" gap between the back of the bellhousing and front of the trans case.The engine then spun freely.
Long story short, after tearing the viper input trans out, i noticed that the splines on the input shaft do not extend far enough back causing my Mcleod twin disc to bottom out on the input shaft splines. which then locks my engine up.
Anyone?
#3
post # 2 should help
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...put-shaft.html
it sounds like the end that goes into pilot bearing on viper shaft needs to be machined down to fit in pilot bearing. from the pics you can also see the shorter length in splines. Don't know if you bottomed out there or against the pilot bearing. If the later you probally pushed it into the crank further if you drew the transmission in by bolts
not trying to be a dick but that is never recommended to get the tranny in last 1/4" viper or standard shaft.
with the tranny out you can look to see if the pilot got pushed in. if not you 'may" have bent the hub on top disc if spline bottomed out
good luck
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...put-shaft.html
it sounds like the end that goes into pilot bearing on viper shaft needs to be machined down to fit in pilot bearing. from the pics you can also see the shorter length in splines. Don't know if you bottomed out there or against the pilot bearing. If the later you probally pushed it into the crank further if you drew the transmission in by bolts
not trying to be a dick but that is never recommended to get the tranny in last 1/4" viper or standard shaft.
with the tranny out you can look to see if the pilot got pushed in. if not you 'may" have bent the hub on top disc if spline bottomed out
good luck
#4
post # 2 should help
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...put-shaft.html
it sounds like the end that goes into pilot bearing on viper shaft needs to be machined down to fit in pilot bearing. from the pics you can also see the shorter length in splines. Don't know if you bottomed out there or against the pilot bearing. If the later you probally pushed it into the crank further if you drew the transmission in by bolts
not trying to be a dick but that is never recommended to get the tranny in last 1/4" viper or standard shaft.
with the tranny out you can look to see if the pilot got pushed in. if not you 'may" have bent the hub on top disc if spline bottomed out
good luck
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...put-shaft.html
it sounds like the end that goes into pilot bearing on viper shaft needs to be machined down to fit in pilot bearing. from the pics you can also see the shorter length in splines. Don't know if you bottomed out there or against the pilot bearing. If the later you probally pushed it into the crank further if you drew the transmission in by bolts
not trying to be a dick but that is never recommended to get the tranny in last 1/4" viper or standard shaft.
with the tranny out you can look to see if the pilot got pushed in. if not you 'may" have bent the hub on top disc if spline bottomed out
good luck
#5
All i need is about a 1/4" more space to make my clutch work. Do you think if i spaced the trans back it would cause any issues? I would have to space my slave and run a extended pilot. And possibly need to shorten my driveshaft. My buddy has a cnc plasma cutter so making a plate to fit between the trans and back of the bell housing in my mind might work. I am gonna run a big shot of n2o and would hate to keep breaking LSX style input shafts.
#7
yeah also spacing TO bearing forward, shortening DS if not enough yoke room is left. shifter would be slightly back further in the console
or
have the splines machined deeper on input shaft...
I don't know what the hub on the top disc looks like on your twin but mine (pic) is flush pretty much so "shaving" off any from the top would not give 1/4" more. But if yours does protrude up some...that would be a fast track way of gaining the distance you need.
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#8
you need to have the trans in deep enough for the nose of the input shaft to ride on the pilot bearing. 1/4" back would bring that pretty close to not being in the pilot far enough. maybe pulling the pilot bearing out some would "split the diffrence" enough to still work.
yeah also spacing TO bearing forward, shortening DS if not enough yoke room is left. shifter would be slightly back further in the console
or
have the splines machined deeper on input shaft...
I don't know what the hub on the top disc looks like on your twin but mine (pic) is flush pretty much so "shaving" off any from the top would not give 1/4" more. But if yours does protrude up some...that would be a fast track way of gaining the distance you need.
yeah also spacing TO bearing forward, shortening DS if not enough yoke room is left. shifter would be slightly back further in the console
or
have the splines machined deeper on input shaft...
I don't know what the hub on the top disc looks like on your twin but mine (pic) is flush pretty much so "shaving" off any from the top would not give 1/4" more. But if yours does protrude up some...that would be a fast track way of gaining the distance you need.
Last edited by Sprayed 99; 11-06-2013 at 01:42 PM.
#10
1/4" is a pretty big bite to hone out of the spline hub of disc and leave much left. Maybe 1/8 from disc and space back tranny 1/8". I would think if tranny was back just 1/8" existing pilot & DS would still work. would have to add a 1/8" spacer behind slave bearing
Op needs to look at his top disc to determine what 'safely" can be removed.
also maybe ping McLeod tech to see if they have "adjustments" that can be made on the top disc hub so this is more of a plug & play top disc swap with the Viper input shaft
Op needs to look at his top disc to determine what 'safely" can be removed.
also maybe ping McLeod tech to see if they have "adjustments" that can be made on the top disc hub so this is more of a plug & play top disc swap with the Viper input shaft
#13
I was just showing you my disc as an example not knowing what the LSx one looked like
sounds like you could send them your disc and they would drill out the rivets and flip the hub....or could you just flip the disc over???? I would think that would accomplish the same thing as fliping the hub unless I am missing something....unless they use a lower profile hub to make the Viper shaft clear
Is your disc organic on both sides or puc?
I have dealt with Billy and Lee (shop foreman) @ McLeod. Lee took care of my warrenty issues, short on words but he got it done.
#14
I spoke with Lee this time. He said he was holding down the fort while everyone was out at SEMA. Both Bill and Lee i have dealt with a few times. Very helpful and know what they re doin.
Since my discs are used Lee said to send the discs to him to drill out and switch the hub. And my discs are organic too.
Since my discs are used Lee said to send the discs to him to drill out and switch the hub. And my discs are organic too.