GTA91

iTrader: (14)

So I'm swapping my car back to a t56... been running a th350 for the past few years. I got the car lined out with the auto and was leaving on the nitrous and 275 MT DR's and pulling 1.37-1.42 60's and running high 9's to 10.0s.

Back when I had a t56 in the car previously, I ran 325 MT DR's for awhile (mainly NA) and then switched to a set of stiff sidewall ET Drags on the bottle. They worked well but I only made a few nitrous passes at the track before going to the auto. I'd prefer to run a radial again but not sure if they'll work or not.

My setup is a 402 LS2 with about 520rwhp NA and between 650-700rwhp n2o... 3650lb car as well. It should go high 10's NA and high 9's on the bottle.


Just looking for some input... been away from the t56 scene for awhile.



Thanks
-Jeremy

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

With a stick that shocks the tires harder, it's easier to be consistent with a bias ply. It is possible to 60' well with a drag radial and ultimately it should be slightly faster as it'll mph better all else equal, but the suspension and clutch release has to be spot on for track conditions. Hope that helps, Chris

GTA91

iTrader: (14)

Yeah I know the bias ply are more forgiving but what I don't get (or haven't grasped yet) is the "sticks shock the tires harder" comments I always hear. To me at first glance/thought I'd think its pretty similar to an auto car coming off the transbrake but maybe not. Can anyone elaborate on this?

I'd really prefer to run a radial but don't want to fight the car and spend additional money/time trying to make the car work all the time. Maybe I'll just throw a 325 mickey back on it and try it this season.

GTA91

iTrader: (14)

And this is coming from a guy that has friends with 7 & 8 second transbraked nitrous and turbo cars that run on radials.

blue99fbody

iTrader: (5)

i dont know of anyone making a radial work like a stiff wall slick does. im sure you can with a soft loc clutch. i tried a radial a long time ago and shelled parts out within 3 masses. i may attempt to try the new mt pro 275 at some point this year but i still dont think they are gonna work.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

I raced on some old used 275 mts i had to. its nice that you street drive and dont have to change the wheels, i would do it again for sure just to TnT and local stuff. For class stuff it sucks, i wouldn't run them if you didn't have to. Maybe if you ran a adjustable clutch and only keep the car in the race setup (get the clutch to slip) with no street driving it would be alot better. It would take a long time to learn it yourself, i htink they what most guys ditch it. i would spin off the line half the time, ting to "let off" the clutch. Using that, with a 2step, tire psi and shock setting, was non repeatable tuning thing. Once they spin the car dosn't move forward like it will on etdrags that will grip waded up, and after a little speed of the car and recover. On dr it dose not work, once them spin, you lost the suspension working to keep weight on them pushed into the track. ETdrags you get to aggressive you fall off .02 in the 60' DR its .2 lol. Im difference only running about 440whp and NA so there's no progression on it. Its all there, went some 1.4s 1.45 or a 1.43 was the best. I'm just learning it myself, ther alot of people that know a ton more. You need good shocks, a good TA, ARB, with it setup right, the big 28x10.5 etdrags dont work on ok setups like it dose for alot of guys. You setup it up stiffer and alot more aggressive then etdrags. More then you think would hold, but you have to be hard to the tire.

GTA91

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for the replies guys. Good info and confirmation of some of the things I was thinking. I still have my 275 mickeys on the car I might try them out for the hell of it come springtime. Really debating trying the 325 mickeys again and I'm sure they'll work on the motor (like they did before for me, 10.9-11.1 @ 126 w/ a 1.51) but not sure they'll work on the bottle. I may just resort to the 28x10.50 ET Drag stiff again.


blue 99, what tire you running?


*Are any guys running a DOT slick that works well? ET street or QTP, etc.


Thanks again!

2muchboostNY

iTrader: (8)

Coming from the import-Supra world....lots of guys speak highly of the QTP's. Havent tried them myself but they have worked well for some high powered cars.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Transbrake can be as violent, I was under the impression you were foot braking your th350 since you didn't mention otherwise.

I agree, Robz has cut 1.32 on a 255 DR and been 9.33 with a slipper clutch in an IRS C5.

Quick Time Pros work as does pretty much everything Hoosier makes

GTA91

iTrader: (14)

My car was footbrake and not a transbrake car, but I know plent of guys as fast as me and much faster that come off a transbrake on radials... and even the small 275 radials like friends of mine that run 275 classes. That's why I mentioned it... just trying to understand how a transbrake car and stick car differ at launch because tons of big power transbrake cars run radials with great success.

blue99fbody

iTrader: (5)

i run a hoosier stiff 28x10.5 most of the time and a 26x8.5 hoosier for some class racing stuff. i ran some 28x12.5 mt et street bias ply for some true street stlye racing this year but it was all no time event stuff where i never got a ticket and it was limited prep. they worked ok but not as good as my slicks and didnt hold up as well.

some of the vette guys have been 1.2x 60's on 17" 315 drag radials but they have to slip the **** out of the clutch to make that happen and are pretty inconsistant

Firebirdmuscle

iTrader: (16)

+1

I know thread is about high hp cars but you guys are experienced with this. Has a radial been sufficient enough with a bolt on car or is it just a no go all around with a radial. I street drive a good bit and was curious if it worked with lower hp level cars

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Gotcha, a well set-up suspension helps as well as ramping in the power I imagine.

JS01

iTrader: (10)

You still have the converter slip softening the launch with the auto trans. That's how all these really fast cars get down on 275's running 1.1x 60's and etc, its all in the converter & power management. With a clutch the engine RPM and driveline RPM/wheelspeed are going to try and 'match up' (for lack of a better term) immediately. Unless you have a slipper clutch type setup obviously.

whitedevil

iTrader: (9)

if i heat up my radials like hell, my car does ok, but i have no exp with hard core hole shots yet (on my 8th 10 bolt rear, and im poor) m car is equipped with a t56/monster level 3 combo at around 800hp medium boost street tune (on a nitto555r)


Now, on the 26x10.50x16s i could launch the car a bit more aggressive with the "governed clutch slip launch" technique. I also ran the 325x50x15 mt et street drag radial, and the car worked well on that too, those tires just add heaps of weight in comparison to the soft wall "tube" style et street radials i mentioned before (the ones with the fine line tread pattern) and had to completely change my launch technique on the street and the track, im confident the weight made a huge difference.