j99fbody

iTrader: (1)

Im using a m6 engine harness instead of converting my auto harness. I have found lots of info on here about converting the a4 harness to work, but i cant seem to find anything about what wiring will be needed if i use the m6 harness. I have a pig tail coming off clutch pedal with a gray wire and black/white stripe wire that im not sure what to do with also is their anything that needs to be done with the wires that went to the auto shifter. I want everything to work as if it were a factory t56 car and any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

I changed my engine harness to m6, it was a waste of time honestly.

You will still need to wire up everything exactly like you would using an a4 harness with the exception of reverse lock out.

My reverse lights still aren't working using the factory m6 plug so I'm assuming I need to still use the a4 plug harness to the reverse lights

The wiring to the pedals is different on the 99+ cars. For me I just needed to wire the clutch depression switch in line with the brake depression switch. For reference the brake like switch is above the depression switch on the pedal assembly.

You can buy a neutral safety switch and run the wires from the a4 plug or just connect them to bypass that switch

I'm biased but I think my write up is the best

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...arts-help.html
QUOTE=chrysler kid;18130556]I will add my own pictures tomorrow as I put my interior back in the car


Interior continued
After the wiring and cables have been disconnected you will unbolt the shifter assembly from the body. Remember the plug going into the shifter mechanism is all the wiring you need to use for wiring in your t56 sensors

Pic of the plug from mervs thread. Also shows the bracket that needs to be removed


The shifter assembly is bolted to brackets on top of where you need to cut for the shifter. Use your cutting wheel attachment on your power drill to cut off the bracket in front of the airbag module. You should be able to see dimples in the bracket where it was tac welded onto the body, you will need to drill out the tac welds to remove the bracket.


Once the bracket is removed take Time to vacuum your metal shavings. Next place the body boot trans cover onto the body where you just removed the shifter assembly, trace an outline or start your bolts to hold the boot to the body. Once you have your bolt hole locations figured out for the boot you can drill out the hole with the cutting wheel.

Next remove your drivers seat, this is where you will need the 13mm ranching wrench to get the rear nuts off of the seat

Remove the kick panel below the steering column, then remove the plastic support behind it. Next remove the steering column, do not be afraid of it, disconnect the sensors attached to it and undo the 4 bolts holding it to the supports under the dash. Next unbolt the 3 bolts connecting it to the firewall and then the 1 bolt holding it to the steering rack by the headers on the drivers side. Spray wd40 or pbblaster into the sleeve where you unbolted the column to the steering shaft and then pull the steering wheel back towards you and it will slide out.

Next move on to the pedal assembly. Slide the throttle cable out of the top of the has pedal, unclip the brake pedal from the master assembly lever and disconnect the brake light and brake depression switch. Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the pedal assembly to the brake booster. Now there is 1 bolt holding the top of the pedal assembly to the dash. All of these bolts are 13 mm

Take note of the brake pedal plugs as the lower plug off of the brake pedal assembly will control the cruise control and be wired in line with your clutch depression switch. Remove the pedal assembly and line up your manual pedals. Use a sharpie to create an outline of the hole for the clutch bracket against the firewall. I've noticed it's best not to over think the position and have the hole sit flush with the u shape of the clutch master support bracket. Use the 2 3/4 hole bit to cut the hole and cut two holes for the support bracket on the master



Now your holes are drilled you want to install the clutch master. The unit comes pre bled from gm, the best method was to put a bright light inside the car and find the holes from inside the engine bay using the light to guide you. You want to guide the Ubolt in evenly, if your having trouble go inside the car to wiggle the masters lever into the car and onto the m6 pedal assembly. Clip it on the clutch pedal and go back to the engine bay to see if you can wiggle the ubolts better. Go back inside and try to lift the clutch pedal gently and it should naturally want to line up the Ubolt holes. Note patience required

Next is on to the automatic transmission removal
http://modernmusclecars.net/forums/a...p?do=tcinstall

I'm not going to go into detail but it's pretty straight forward. Unbolt the starter to get to the torque converter bolts

Drop the trans pan slowly one side at a time so that you can drain it into your oil change pan, left rear side first, let it drain, left middle, left from etc till you have them all loose and you can tilt the pan to pour everything out. Do note this is the fuckingmmessiest part of the swap. Trans fluid is never fully drained so expect to spill it regardless this is where you want all your cardboard under the car.

sorry trying to arrange and organize everything. Getting tired feel free to post links [/QUOTE]

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

No^ you can wire reverse to work just fine using the correct pigtail to plug into the t56 along with the wires from the a4 neutral safety switch.

To the OP i go over all concerns about cruise control, clutch pedal wiring and everything else related to wiring in my writeup. Everything that I have in mine regarding that is how it would have come from gm and everything will work just like a factory car.

I see you're using an m6 harness which should actually make it easier. It really should just plug into the pcm and then into the trans which will make reverse and the speedo work. For the clutch pedal do you have a plug with 2 wires on it or 4? Also what year harness and pcm are you dealing with? They are for cruise control if you have a 98 pcm setup then you have 2 wires, which is easy just simply wire them in series with the brake switch as I show in my writeup. If you have a 99-up car then you NEED to get the switch with 4 wires, this become a little more complicated for cruise control as now the pcm needs to see a signal wire from the pedal. Again how to wire this all up is in my writeup. Since you are using the factory m6 harness you will need to find the cruise control signal wire at the pcm connector and wire this to the clutch pedal

here's the writeup I did which may help you despite using the auto harness in mine.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...e-writeup.html

dont forget to brace the firewall with a metal plate where the clutch m/c goes like a factory m6 car has or you will risk eventually cracking the firewall

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Yeah to my original statement I have an m6 harness and m6 flashed ecu but the reverse lights don't work. I believe the interior harness pinout is a bit different. My reverse lockout needed to have the polarity reverse on the plug

My cruise and neutral safety switch all function normally

Macs98Z

iTrader: (16)

I would like to know what you did to make cruise control function on your 98. Since 98s use a cruise control module whereas the 99+ are directly controlled by the computer I believe, the instructions I have found are always for 99 and up. Since ours are different, I have been confused on what to wire, and consequently my cruise has never worked. I have tried it a couple ways and neither worked. Could you tell me how you did yours? It would be great if you had pics too, but I don't want to ask you to take any special just for that.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

98 shouldnt need anything to work properly. since they use their own module, you should just be able to extend the brake wiring over the the clutch pedal. i've seen it done on multiple 98 and down cars and thats how they are wired fro the factory

Macs98Z

iTrader: (16)

I'll have to take a look at it again soon. It's been so long now I can't even remember how I ran it.

ChryslerKid, is that how you did yours?

ND2RACE

Just because you changed the engine harness doesn't help the fact that the back up lights, clutch pedal wiring, ect, is part of the body harness. There would be a couple connectors that simply connect the two harnesses together, but since they don't neccesarily match it isn't much help, now you'll have to find these connectors and change the wiring there. Best of luck to you.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Yeah I just need to extend the wires from the old shifter wiring down to the transmission. It literally wasn't worth the time to swap the harness because I literally have had to wire everything like I would have with an a4 harness except for reverse lock out.

As mentioned above your car should still have cruise control if it is a 1998 even if you didn't change any wiring. The clutch depression switch is just spliced into the brake depression switch. Basically the car sees both clutch and brake depression switches as the same switch. Your cruise control is still working now it just won't turn off when you push the clutch

If your ecm hasn't been flashed yet to m6 the cruise wont work. The speedo only reads half of what it should so the car can't calibrate throttle input correctly to maintain speed.

My car is non TCS, I'm not certain how TCS cars were in 98. In 99 the TCS thing under the food controlled or relayed throttle input

I can take a picture of how I wired it but basically the current from the brake switch is a pink wire I think, goes into the clutch depression switch, comes out as a gray wire, splice the pink brake depression switch into that gray wire from the clutch depression switch, then the output gray wire back to a gray wire from that original harness to the brake depression switch. Its just literally a voltage loop. One switch goes down and it breaks the circuit and turns the cruise off.

I'm fairly certain you could just re use that old brake depression switch from the a4 pedal assembly to put on the clutch pedal so you don't have to spend extra cash

Macs98Z

iTrader: (16)

Thanks, I will have to revisit this soon.

spaulsen

iTrader: (12)

ive got a 98 that has a 6speed trans, but auto harness. ive got everything working eccept the reverse lockout. i cant find any info on how to wire it. can anyone help with this?

Macs98Z

iTrader: (16)

98s are a little different, but the same process is used as other years. You will need to run a power wire off the auto harness and a ground wire off of the pcm to the reverse lockout solenoid to make it work. To do this the way it is done from GM, you will need to re pin the pcm to get your ground wire--sounds complicated but its really not. Here is a thread which should give you info specific to 98s. https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ut-wiring.html Just keep in mind while referencing this that the two pin #s needed for 98s are 61 and 42 (not the 42 and 44 numbers used for 99+). Let me know if you have any further questions.