kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

So I pulled my T56 due to a broken 3-4 keys, and I noticed that my flywheel looks pretty glazed and hot spotted while my pressure plate looks new. The clutch disk is Kevlar on fw side and organic on the pp side. Everything is less than a year old, flywheel disc, pp, and clutch disc. What would cause the flywheel to look so stressed yet the pp looks like it was just pulled out of the box? Is this an issue of the clutch not strong enough for the car or something else? I should be around 425-450rwhp with my setup.

BALLSS

the Kevlar is more aggressive and will wear/glaze/hot spot your FW sooner than the organic material against PP

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

I'm speculating w/o pics, but it sounds like the clutch wasn't fully disengaging and that's why there isn't any wear on the pressure plate side imho. I'm assuming it was difficult to shift judging by the broken trans?

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

Finally pulled the flywheel today, in better light it looks more like mirror polished with a few hotspots, doesn't look as bad as I initially thought, but I still think that I'm going to need a stronger disc for my setup. Here are the pics:





The spots on the fingers of the PP are from brake cleaner.
How does it look? It's hard to tell from the pic, but when you look at the organic side at the right angle you can see where the pucks are on the opposite side of the disc. I'm thinking I need a grippier clutch that won't slip and cause the "polishing/glazing". Opinions?

BALLSS

you have a disc with 2 different friction materials with the puc side being more aggressive=more heat

I don't see a problem with putting this clutch assembly back in.

the PP looks the best. you could get a new FW insert and a full face disc that is more aggressive both sides like a Spec 3+ disc

whatever you do, you want to confirm you have complete clutch disengagement. jack rear up, start motor, put in 1st with clutch pedal down...if wheels turn you have a disengagement issue. This is often due to weak/failing hydraulics

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

The only thing I see questionable is why is the flywheel all scored up in the recess outboard of the flywheel bolts? Looks like sometime in the past there was a clutch disc hub/spring failure. You might want to replace the flywheel to be safe.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

I was wondering the same thing...

Couple of things to note, it's a Ceramic friction on the pressure plate side and Organic flywheel side. The Ceramic has a higher coefficient of friction therefore it doesn't slip as easily and is going to grab harder, so that is why there are less heat marks and the reason I'm not a fan of dual friction clutches as they're only as strong as their weakest link ultimately. I'd replace the steel insert and re-break it in if you're not looking to put something else in.

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

Yeah I had an old Spec 3 that blew the center springs out a long time ago, scratched off the anodizing, but it is still balanced, had it checked. Also it is the organic side on the PP and Kevlar side on the flywheel. If there are no signs of slippage from the pics, I'll put it back in with a new FW surface for now??

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Gotcha, forgot the disc is backwards on a LT1 style clutch. Regardless that is Ceramic, not Kevlar which creates more heat and likely the hot spots are from your intentional slipping not unintentional slipping at your power level I can only assume. The manufacturer of the clutch should be able to better assist you though.