My first tranny removal.
#1
My first tranny removal.
Hey guys, I'm starting my pilot bearing project today. I picked up my 98 TA in October and it's been the garage since. Clutch was changed two years ago by previous owner but he wasn't sure if the pilot was changed, and pilot is a little noisy. So I picked up a new slave, tick speed bleeder, pilot, TA bushing and a new tranny mount.
I have a question, probably one of a few, can I get away with not taking out the factory y-pipe? If I have to take it out, is it safe to spray the o2 sensor with wd40 and remove it, or will it foul the sensor? Thanks in advance.
I just removed the shifter and I'm moving on to the driveshaft.
I have a question, probably one of a few, can I get away with not taking out the factory y-pipe? If I have to take it out, is it safe to spray the o2 sensor with wd40 and remove it, or will it foul the sensor? Thanks in advance.
I just removed the shifter and I'm moving on to the driveshaft.
#3
My driveshaft is not spinning in neutral. Sob! There is usually a pop or click sound when I went from 1st to reverse or visa versa. I can see all four bolts of the driveshaft, should I try and make the shaft move before I yank it out?
#5
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#7
OP
if you haven't got the DS out yet, mark DS/U joint with a marker so you can put it back in the same way (balance ).
Use a blind hole puller to get pilot out. DONT use grease or wet TP or something and try and push it out
zip loc bags and a marker are your friend for keeping bolts, etc together.
if you haven't got the DS out yet, mark DS/U joint with a marker so you can put it back in the same way (balance ).
Use a blind hole puller to get pilot out. DONT use grease or wet TP or something and try and push it out
zip loc bags and a marker are your friend for keeping bolts, etc together.
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#11
My update so far, I got the driveshaft out and I wrestled the old y pipe out. I broke one of the studs on the pass manifold unfortunately. Fakk'n old exhaust. Also I bought the car with codes p0151, p0157, p0131 and p0137 which all relate to either an exhaust leak or faulty o2's, something along those lines. I'm seriously contemplating ordering some pacesetter long tubes and tsp y pipe to take care of the code and stud issues. Me hoping tomorrow I will have the trans out.
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Now that you have the y pipe out...you can leave it in, lol. At least every time I've pulled the trans I've left mine in. It makes getting the trans in and out a little tricky, especially putting it back in because you have to lift the tailshaft up and almost rest it on the y pipe while you lift the input shaft of the trans up to clear the bellhousing. You will be better off with the y out, however. Mine was welded to the intermediate pipe on the exhaust pipe so I decided to do mine with it in.
#13
hey guys. I got the trans out today. The **** who took it out last only put in 7 of 8 bolts, plus he broke a couple of electrical connectors.
A couple of concerns I have, the input shaft has about 1/8" or less of play side to side and some discoloration where the pilot bearing sits. The pressure plate was also a bit rusty. What do you guys think about the discoloration on the input and should it have 0 play in the shaft?
The last owner said the clutch was changed two years ago with a 2001 ls6 pp and clutch. The cost of this project is hitting some big numbers and I hope I don't find anything else I don't like.
A couple of concerns I have, the input shaft has about 1/8" or less of play side to side and some discoloration where the pilot bearing sits. The pressure plate was also a bit rusty. What do you guys think about the discoloration on the input and should it have 0 play in the shaft?
The last owner said the clutch was changed two years ago with a 2001 ls6 pp and clutch. The cost of this project is hitting some big numbers and I hope I don't find anything else I don't like.
#14
hey guys. I got the trans out today. The **** who took it out last only put in 7 of 8 bolts, plus he broke a couple of electrical connectors.
A couple of concerns I have, the input shaft has about 1/8" or less of play side to side and some discoloration where the pilot bearing sits. The pressure plate was also a bit rusty. What do you guys think about the discoloration on the input and should it have 0 play in the shaft?
The last owner said the clutch was changed two years ago with a 2001 ls6 pp and clutch. The cost of this project is hitting some big numbers and I hope I don't find anything else I don't like.
A couple of concerns I have, the input shaft has about 1/8" or less of play side to side and some discoloration where the pilot bearing sits. The pressure plate was also a bit rusty. What do you guys think about the discoloration on the input and should it have 0 play in the shaft?
The last owner said the clutch was changed two years ago with a 2001 ls6 pp and clutch. The cost of this project is hitting some big numbers and I hope I don't find anything else I don't like.
I am in the same boat as you; the pilot bearing was trashed and I have about a 1/16th of side to side play. Also, my input shaft looks identical to yours. The new pilot bearing I got slides right one and rolls smooth , but I would like to have a second opinion.
#15
I called a transmission shop recommended to me from the board in my area. They said they would look at the transmission and feel the shaft, hehe shaft, for themselves and let me know what they think for no charge. I just have to bring it over, I'm going tomorrow. I will let you know what they say. I still have my pp installed cus I couldn't find the pilot puller to rent thus far.
#16
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Autozone rents the puller and slide hammer. Its the small black one with 2 arms touching
You at the arms out of the assembly and place them once at a time into the pilot and then attach them to the base of the puller and attach the puller to the slide hammer.
Pilot shouldn't be making noise. Also change the slave while you have it apart
You at the arms out of the assembly and place them once at a time into the pilot and then attach them to the base of the puller and attach the puller to the slide hammer.
Pilot shouldn't be making noise. Also change the slave while you have it apart
#17
I brought my tranny to the pros and they say it is completely normal to have slight play up and down. It's a tapered bearing and the leverage of grabbing the input shaft from the end and moving it up and down, you should have a very minor movement. The pilot bearing gets rids of that little slack and supports the input. A lot of play would be a different story tho.
Chrysler kid, I got the tool, but it doesn't have the small attachment for the pilot bearing. Any idea where to find it? I have a new slave, pilot and speed bleeder ready to go so I'm all set there. I'm going to do the drill mod too
Chrysler kid, I got the tool, but it doesn't have the small attachment for the pilot bearing. Any idea where to find it? I have a new slave, pilot and speed bleeder ready to go so I'm all set there. I'm going to do the drill mod too
#18
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Autozone has the jaws and slide hammer. The jaws are about $13 if you want to buy it. As a note it will not just fit in. It's a little too big or the pilot too small either way you will have to put it in at an angle to get one jaw on there then tap(smack) it up until the second jaw is in. Rotate the jaws 90* and expand them. Insert slide hammer shaft (yes just for you...) and pound away.
#19
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Sorry they are two separate tools, ask for their tool chart and its the small black puller tool with two arms. Loop the arms in the pilot and then connect it to the base of the puller again. Attach the puller to the slide hammer and have fun
Get some lithium grease to lightly apply to the bearing and the tip of the input shaft.
Make sure the bearing is installed like the old one. Sounds dumb but tale pictures as you go so you can double check your work later.
If you're getting a new slave delco redesigned them and they are black. The seal inside is better than the old design however the c clip fitting for the disconnect is weak. Use the old disconnect from the old style silver slave. You remove them with pin or small screw driver to pop the pin out of the base of the slave
Get some lithium grease to lightly apply to the bearing and the tip of the input shaft.
Make sure the bearing is installed like the old one. Sounds dumb but tale pictures as you go so you can double check your work later.
If you're getting a new slave delco redesigned them and they are black. The seal inside is better than the old design however the c clip fitting for the disconnect is weak. Use the old disconnect from the old style silver slave. You remove them with pin or small screw driver to pop the pin out of the base of the slave
Last edited by chrysler kid; 05-27-2014 at 01:05 PM.
#20
I haven't worked on the car much since taking out the tranny. But I did order tsp 3/4 race headers along with tsp catted y pipe, new manifold bolts and gaskets, 2 new o2 sensors and poly motor mounts. Super stoked for the long tubes. Probably take me a while to install all these parts but it will all be worth it in the end for sure. Ws6store is fu$&en awesome