dhctss

iTrader: (3)

hey guys first off I'm very happy right now. I spent 8 hrs yesterday doing clutch with old man handing tools. I got the drivesshshaft out after spraying some freeze out amazing stuff. I had made a thread couldn't get out before. I'm going to have buddy change both u joints at his shop. I was amazed my car has no rust on body at all just on suspension parts. my issues were the quick connect for the slave is busted. I took slave off so I could drop tranny. the slave broke will be replacing anyways. how can I get the quick connect free. the plastic is screwed up. another problem is the bell housing I couldn't get off. I sprayed some more freeze out no luck. I'm very happy never did anything like this on a car . overall I'm almost there. next week I will be doing more. I have my little man for weekend

bsf

iTrader: (7)

Depending on which style release fitting you have, you may find the following bushing kit helpful.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

What bsf recommended may work.

As far as getting it out, that may require some creative work on your part. Exactly how screwed is the plastic piece? I've used a pick on some that were absolutely destroyed, small screwdrivers, etc. It's always a plus when you look and it's like new, at that point it pops right out.

Make sure all the bolts are out of the bellhousing, once you've verified there are places the pry on the bellhousing on each side. Work it back and forth and eventually it will pop off. The dowels are a tight fit and the bell housing can get stuck on there (aluminum to steel) and be problematic.

Sounds like you've got your hands full on the install, give us a call at anytime and we'll help over the phone as well as on the forum.

dhctss

iTrader: (3)

thanks yea it has been a hellish job. I need to replace both u joints in driveshaft also. overall I can't complain I got this far and it is a lot harder taken apart especially since never touched in 14 yrs and been sitting 6 months. the dowels are probably the issue. hopefully this week I can finish. I hope the pilot bearing isn't to hard. I'll keep. you posted. ty

bsf

iTrader: (7)

I sympathize. I finally pulled my transmission by myself Saturday, and similarly, the whole project has been a bit difficult. I have a semi-custom exhaust, and I had to remove it entirely (minus the headers). Few other twists and turns, but my clutch hydraulic line release was pretty easy. Also, based on posts here, I greatly overestimated the difficulty in manhandling the transmission. However, I think I will need to replace my U-joints also. I am considering just having a driveline shop do that. Which U-joints are you going to use?

Stopped at the bellhousing, which would not let go. Noticed some engine coolant at the bellhousing. Little bit came out of the upper, passenger bolt hole, just beneath the passenger head. I will need to get that figured out and do whatever needs to be done, I guess. I am guessing that hole and the nearest head bolt hole intersect at the ends. Likely will pressure test the engine cooling system after I get the bellhousing off.

dhctss

iTrader: (3)

I'm not sure on u joints. probably get them at napa. I like there stuff better. yeah the transmission is a pain alone. I don't fit all the way under car. I'm going to give it a crack tommorow. hope to get bellhousing and rest off and clutch put back. my sister finance is a auto mechanic and he is going to do ujoints for me. hopefully the coolant u see is not a big issue.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

My passenger, bell housing-to-engine block dowel pin was badly stuck. I used 3 ratchet straps connected between the passenger side of the bell housing and rear differential; Liquid Wrench; and a rubber, dead blow hammer to finally get it off. By smacking the driver side face of the bell housing (protected by a wooden block) repeatedly, the passenger side dowel eventually, slowly let go.

I pressured tested the coolant system and found nothing, except the tester cap has a slow leak. There must have been a little fluid in the “bottom” of the passenger side, bell housing-to-engine, bolt hole from when I changed heads. That hole, and maybe one other, seem to touch the nearest head bolt hole.

My slave is bad, so that probably explains the symptoms I experienced.

Called a driveline shop, and the mechanic said he would not press the u-joints out, just torch & bang I guess, so I wished him a good day. I will just do it myself. Done this nylon-injected type before, just do not enjoy it. I plan to order Spicer 5-795X’s from Rock Auto; ~$54 shipped for me. Nice your sister’s fiancée can help you out.

I wish you the best of luck tomorrow.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

Removed my u-joints earlier. It seems like it was easier than last time I did nylon-injected units; probably corresponding to a slight increase in patience, by the grace of God.

Ordered the Spicer 5-795X’s from Denny’s Driveshafts instead: $52.65 shipped USPS Priority Mail.

dhctss

iTrader: (3)

nice I'll have to try the ractchet straps. you hooked up so it pulled towards the rear . you went around the rear differental? did you take off the pressure plate and flywheel. wonder how stuck they are if at all? 52 shipped thats not bad. I hope to be done by weekend or so. so many people on here make it like its a simple job. far from that. maybe if your car is a garage queen and hasn't been drove a lot. how do you plan on bleeding the system. I heard many storys having to pull tranny again. I didn't get a speed bleeder

bsf

iTrader: (7)

I used a member's YouTube videos for reference.



Yes. 3, cheap Harbor Freight straps. I ratcheted them probably just shy of bending the thin sheet metal ratchets. I was very careful to keep bodyparts away from areas where they could be hurt if it let go suddenly.
Actually, since I completely removed the torque arm, I simply reinstalled those large bolts in the differential and connected to those at the bottom. At the bellhousing, I hooked directly into the transmission-to-bellhousing holes. My strap hooks just fit. I will chase the threads before reinstall. You could screw eye-bolts into those holes if you had the correct thread and were worried about the threads.
Yes. No problem. Used the same exhaust hanger the guy in the video used to hold the flywheel in place while removing bolts.
Mine is mostly a garage queen. Very clean underneath, so that may have helped a bit. I will be washing the entire undercarriage today since I will be waiting for parts after removing the master, which I think I will do. I am a slow wrencher, but I truly believe God has helped me become a much more patient person over the last couple years, so that makes the job much more bearable.
I very much want to order Tick’s complete swap package. That includes a bleeder. Regardless, I am getting a bleeder. If indeed swap in a Tick (Tilton) master, I will be following the procedure provided in the sticky at the top of this subforum.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Just be patient with the bleeding as it can take some time. I drilled a hole in the trans tunnel to let myself be able to one man bleed.

Sounds extreme but I plan to clean the fluid regularly by myself

dhctss

iTrader: (3)

hey I bought a ratchet like u said. I hooked up to torquea
arm and a little prying came right off. ty bsf . I borrowed a pilot bearing puller and slide hammer.I took one of the fingers off like I seen in video and some serious hitting came out. the new one was a bitch to get in. hope I didn't damage it. u have to whack ot good. the part I'm confused is do you have access to bleeder on slave when everything is put back together or u need to bleed before you put back in tranny.. I got the new clutch in and up to pressure plate. at 11pm called a night. cars at my parents condo complex I wish I could leave it on stands but have to set up and break down. Friday I hope to finish. dropping driveshaft off to sister finance tommorow to do u joints. I went with a ls6 clutch wish I got beefier now. oh well.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

Firstly, this is only the 2nd clutch I have done, and the 1st by myself. 1st was many, many years ago. You have access after assembly, but it is difficult without the speed bleeder. Without the speed bleeder, I believe, you will need help unless you cut a hole in your floorboard to reach the bleeder on the slave from the cockpit. I think reading the sticky at the top of this sub-forum should help you.

Bleeding a Tick Master Properly

IMO, at roughly stock power levels, the LS6 will be ok, unless you beat on your vehicle.

I have only ordered u-joints so far. I am still leaning toward a complete Tick/Monster level 2 swap, but I want to mull it over more. Additionally, I think I am going to pull the rear, main cover and replace the gasket and main (crankshaft) seal. I have never noticed any oil on the concrete beneath my vehicle. I would rather not drop the transmission again to repair a bad gasket or seal. Conversely, I would not want to drop the transmission again to repair an oil leak I caused through improper installation of the gasket or seal. I am considering purchasing the Sac City Corvette rear main cover alignment tool for ~$45 shipped.

dhctss

iTrader: (3)

my rear main seal is dry and not leaking so I heard from people to leave it. I like you don't want thechance. of it getting pinched and leak. if you can do it right good idea as I have a few leaks I need to address next. I'm glad I did pilot bearing old one was dry and a little rusty. I just wish there easer way then beating it in with block. it seams fine. tommorow I'm gonna continue. hope to finish.

dhctss

iTrader: (3)

well after some long days I'm finnaly done and driving. if I had to do again I would rent a tranny jack. it was a pain.as for bleeding I tried to bleed threw slave forget that. I went to harbor freight bought a mitty vac and was done in less than 5 minutes. what a awesome tool. car is running excellent for sitting 6 months. I couldn't of done with out this sites help. I feel like I can do it in a day next time lol. I spent 3 hrs just vaccuming and cleaning pollen off.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

Good job. Glad everything turned out well.

dhctss

iTrader: (3)

thanks a lot. appreciate your help.hope yours turns out well when your done also