408Maro

iTrader: (14)

Hey guys so got a few things going on with my car here. I have a lt1 t56 with a ram clutch and centerforce flywheel specific for the sbc 2 piece seal.dum

Took out the flywheel to have it resurfaced but did not have anything done to the PP and reused the clutch.dum

So first thing that's happened is once I got everything back in the rod from the clutch master cylinder to the pedal bent and had to replace the master. Now the clutch is engaging 1/4 up on the pedal only with nothing but space for the other 3/4 of the pedal. It works fine and driveable but wasn't like that before breaking the master. Maybe more air l didn't get out?dum

Now the other issue is that I am getting a bad vibration at high speeds from the whole car and can feel it in the shifter aswell.dum

I know it's not wheels since I had it on a rack and was still doing it. I checked everything under car and looks good. It's odddum

Now only changes I made was I used ARP PP bolts that seem to be for lt1 setups that I torqued to 35 lbs, resurfaced flywheel, and lastly which may also be a factor is noticed upon re install was that the TO bearing clip that holds bearing to PP was missing so made one to workdum

Any thoughts? Thanks

__________________
1972 Camaro RS

dumdumdumdum

BALLSS

assuming you used the right "LT1" PP bolts (they have a non threaded shoulder) your TQ at 35 ft lbs is to much needs to be 22. you will have disengagement issues otherwise

using a old PP with new disc and resurfaced FW is not advised

and IMHO the sliding weight thing of CF clutches is snake oil and can be a source of vibrations if "some" of them hang up and don't slide

not sure what home made "clip" you came up with to hold TO bearing but assume that could be done easily. But if not done right maybe the TO bearing is moving around also causing some vibrations

you also may need to bleed the hydraulics again if you have a low pedal with dead space in it since you replaced MC

408Maro

iTrader: (14)

I appreciate the response. These are the bolts I used
http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=400706434215

I'm kind of leaning towards replacing the clutch assembly all together.

I also will try to re bleed it aswell

BALLSS

those are the correct ARP PP bolts for LT1

is your motor "internal" or "external" balanced?

if internal you need to neutral balance the FW & PP

CF, IIRC, has a paint dab on the PP. That dab is supposed to line up as close to the dowel hole in the crank as possible IF you have a stock external balanced motor

if the pedal feels soft or seems to have dead space in it, you may still have air in the system from the new MC. I bench bleed the MC first as when mounted the MC can trap air in it if not pre-bleed because of the angle it is mounted.

Not sure what pedal assembly you run. Mine is custom for a B-body so I had to bench bleed the MC and install the slave also on the bench and put the whole system in as a unit. I run the McLeod Street Twin using their Wilwood 13/16" bore MC. I bought a new slave at auto part store also but it is exactly same as stock one. Bench bleed that also before connecting MC/braided hose to it and then continued to bleed the whole system on the bench

408Maro

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for verification on the bolts. I will have to torque to 22 lbs when I remove the trans. It's also a 400 external block.

I wasn't even aware of the position or markings on PP till I read it very possible that's what's wrong and I truly hope that is what's wrong

I got factory 2nd gen pedals. Seems I'll be bleeding this thing for a good while till its right