BEAST_WS6M6

Sup tech,

My car is nearing 100k and i have a RMS leak, so while im at it i am going to replace the clutch, it has NOT given me any problems whatsoever but since im there might as well do it. I got this really good deal for an ls7 clutch kit with a RAM aluminum flywheel (18 or 19lbs?).

The car is a daily driver, no track use or race whatsoever. My question is would this be a good replacement for my completely stock '00 formula ws6? i've done research and am set on the ls7 cutch but what about the aluminum fw, would it suit daily driving? I live in fairly cool climate so should i worry about warping? Feedback is appreciated

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

I have an LS7 clutch that was in my 6 speed car when I got it , the main problem with the LS7 clutch that you see posted all the time is blocking out of gears above 5,000 rpm , mine does it and many others have this issue also.

I don't have the weights committed to memory but the ls7 is significantly heavier than the ls1/ls6 and the stock f body hydraulics aren't up to the task of dealing with a heavier clutch so people either go with a tick adjustable master to be able to increase pressure , go with a lightweight flywheel to get the overall weight of clutch , pressure plate ,flywheel closer to stock weights ,do both , or swap to an aftermarket clutch that is lighter without the self adjusting pressure plate which can also be problematic... others drill out the stock master to increase flow.

I would be curious to see if yours ends up shifting well with the lightweight flywheel in place....

BEAST_WS6M6

I also have read about the high rpm shifting issues..hmm

the combinations you stated, i have yet to read that others also did that for the setup to work..most are just 'heavier clutch, but works great'.

Thats my main problem though, i dont want to pull the trigger on this setup and later on have issues..the setup would consist of only upgrading the clutch kit with lightweight fw, pilot bearing and new slave. No aftermarket mc, too much $ for that

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

I've had an LS7 clutch since 2006/2007 and 40k miles. I've never had an issue with it. But if you have no plans for aftermarket parts or racing, I'd go LS6 and call it a day.

BEAST_WS6M6

With commifornia smog laws..its really impossible to mod any car then trying to pass for emissions so with that being that i shall look into the ls6, thanks for the input guys

01MAROONz2890

why would the clutch matter at all with emissions? no one in california is going to know what clutch you have in it and even if they do its no different than changing to a different brand of tires lol. the ls6 suffers from the same fatal flaw as the ls7. the self adjusting pressure plate design on both of them gets weak as they age or driven and this causes the shifting issues, so you will not avoid the issues with either clutch

with that said my buddy had an ls7 clutch and had the shifting issues it weighs a solid 12 lbs over the stock unit, no fun to say the least. I would go with a monster stage 1 unit with a light flywheel that setup will be about 4 lbs lighter than stock if you catch them on sale they are pretty much the same price as the ls7 setup, have the same driveability and will hold more power.

BEAST_WS6M6

Only reason why i stated that was...why have a clutch that holds a lot of power when I'm not even going to mod the motor because of strict emission laws?

As for the flaws, the guy above you just stated that 40k miles and no problems, could we assume that it's only a problem on a individual basis?

I'm not going to mod the car whatsoever so that being said I'm still stuck lol, might look into monster though.. Or just run an ls6??

01MAROONz2890

the better question is why not? a level 1 wont lose anything in terms of driveability and its a far better design and costs the same. I had a brand new ls6 clutch on my car and my buddy has a moster level 3... Other than that our cars are very similarly modded. I can basically bitch slap his into gear at high rpm, cant say the same for mine. A good clutch can and will save your trans in the long run

also in cali they have strict laws with touching the cats and obviously a cam. however you can get away with a catback, air lid, ported tb ls6 intake and even shorty headers since they dont move the cats. all of those things increase performance and will not alert the sniffer if you have the car tuned it will even pass emissions if they do use a sniffer

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

For what its worth, I ran the stock LS6 clutch from 48k miles to almost 60k miles with a 150 shot of nitrous and it held fine. I had no issues with shifting on stock hydraulics (not even the drill mod). Granted I never ran anything more than street radials, nor was I at the track every single weekend.

I'm sure the Monster and LS6 will be fine, but the LS7 is heavier and might cause issues on the stock hydraulics.

BEAST_WS6M6

@maroon, appreciate the insight but I have a real good deal on an ls6 complete kit (slave.pilot bearing, align tool included) for around 150..opposed to ls7 and monster nearing at 5-600 and none of the above included. Not skimping on money but if I don't need an upgrade Might as well stick with oem..although the mods you listed sound like nice upgrades and am staying in within smog legal bounds

BEAST_WS6M6

I have no mods, ,no nos, no radials, and rarely do WOT pulls because of the fragile 10bolt..ls6 shall do fine imo, maybe later I'll do mods like the ones stated above and hopefully the ls6 will hold up