Reverse Shim problem
07-26-2014, 05:28 PM
#1
Brand new Ram flywheel, brand new RXT twin disk clutch. I was running a textralia clutch before with no issues. The previous owner of this engine/trans combo said he removed the spacer that was originally on the crank.
1) Measurement "A" is the distance between the surface of the bell housing that meets the transmission to the tip of the pressure plate fingers. To get an accurate measurement, the clutch must be torqued properly.
2) Measurement "B" is the distance between the throw out bearing surface to the transmission surface that meets the bell housing. To get an accurate measurement, the slave spring must be removed and the bearing must be fully seated at the bottom of it's travel; resting on the slave's base.
My "B" measurement is quite a bit larger than my "A" measurement. Suggestions? I was going to call Mcleod in the morning. They are closed on Saturday apparently. Oh and yes the spring has been removed. I have not tried to stab the trans on as I have already found an issue.
1) Measurement "A" is the distance between the surface of the bell housing that meets the transmission to the tip of the pressure plate fingers. To get an accurate measurement, the clutch must be torqued properly.
2) Measurement "B" is the distance between the throw out bearing surface to the transmission surface that meets the bell housing. To get an accurate measurement, the slave spring must be removed and the bearing must be fully seated at the bottom of it's travel; resting on the slave's base.
My "B" measurement is quite a bit larger than my "A" measurement. Suggestions? I was going to call Mcleod in the morning. They are closed on Saturday apparently. Oh and yes the spring has been removed. I have not tried to stab the trans on as I have already found an issue.
Last edited by oscs; 07-27-2014 at 08:27 AM.
07-26-2014, 06:21 PM
#2
It's not a long-crank early truck LS_ engine is it? If the crank sticks out past the seal somewhere over .400", it's one of those and starter engagement would be an additional issue.
Is it the short (LS1 F-body) slave or taller (CTS-V and other later-model) slave?
If the latter, try the former.
Is it the 98-02 F and 04-06 GTO bellhousing or the longer CTS-V bell?
If the former, try the latter.
Re-verify spline engagement, driveline length, and especially pilot engagement with any changes.
Feels like everything old is new again, as they say.
Is it the short (LS1 F-body) slave or taller (CTS-V and other later-model) slave?
If the latter, try the former.
Is it the 98-02 F and 04-06 GTO bellhousing or the longer CTS-V bell?
If the former, try the latter.
Re-verify spline engagement, driveline length, and especially pilot engagement with any changes.
Feels like everything old is new again, as they say.
07-27-2014, 02:03 PM
#5
Can't see the pic on my phone....but you've verified that you've got the longer crank from a 99-00 lq4? If so there's not great news for you I'm afraid. There's no easy way (ie, without custom parts) to make that crank work with a t56. My donor lq4 had the long crank and I had to swap it for a short one. Luckily I caught it before building the motor though. You've got to space everything back .400" and figure out how to make the starter reach that far.
07-27-2014, 02:39 PM
#6
Can't see the pic on my phone....but you've verified that you've got the longer crank from a 99-00 lq4? If so there's not great news for you I'm afraid. There's no easy way (ie, without custom parts) to make that crank work with a t56. My donor lq4 had the long crank and I had to swap it for a short one. Luckily I caught it before building the motor though. You've got to space everything back .400" and figure out how to make the starter reach that far.
07-27-2014, 02:40 PM
#7
Can't see the pic on my phone....but you've verified that you've got the longer crank from a 99-00 lq4? If so there's not great news for you I'm afraid. There's no easy way (ie, without custom parts) to make that crank work with a t56. My donor lq4 had the long crank and I had to swap it for a short one. Luckily I caught it before building the motor though. You've got to space everything back .400" and figure out how to make the starter reach that far.
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07-28-2014, 12:53 PM
#10
I spoke with Lee@mcleod today and he suggested that I was measuring wrong. He wants me to measure from the face of the block to the fins of the clutch. He also wants me to re install the bell housing on to the transmission and measure from the face of the face of the bell housing (surface that meets the block) to the throw out bearing surface WITH the spring attached and compressed.
Measurement A should be as follows 3.450
Measurement B should be as follows 3.650
All the info I read was telling me that measurement A needed the bell housing to be mounted to the block but I will enlighten him.
Measurement A should be as follows 3.450
Measurement B should be as follows 3.650
All the info I read was telling me that measurement A needed the bell housing to be mounted to the block but I will enlighten him.
07-28-2014, 02:18 PM
#11
I spoke with Lee@mcleod today and he suggested that I was measuring wrong. He wants me to measure from the face of the block to the fins of the clutch. He also wants me to re install the bell housing on to the transmission and measure from the face of the face of the bell housing (surface that meets the block) to the throw out bearing surface WITH the spring attached and compressed.
Measurement A should be as follows 3.450
Measurement B should be as follows 3.650
All the info I read was telling me that measurement A needed the bell housing to be mounted to the block but I will enlighten him.
Measurement A should be as follows 3.450
Measurement B should be as follows 3.650
All the info I read was telling me that measurement A needed the bell housing to be mounted to the block but I will enlighten him.
You need to measure like the write up says, you need to verify the spring is off the slave and that it is fully compressed (IE the plastic bearing piece is against the aluminum housing) if the slave doesn't fully compress you need to crack the bleeder and compress the slave fully. Once this is done you can measure accurately and give us the dimensions.
You'll want to shoot for a .125" gap on the McLeod twin, that will give you room for wear, etc. as you use the clutch. Make sure you measure with a good set of digital calipers and the straight edge you are using is indeed straight.
Report back what you find.
07-28-2014, 04:24 PM
#15
Trust me, I've done this a few times.
More gap would be good... but I'm guessing that gap is going to be quite a bit larger than you want.
07-28-2014, 04:56 PM
#16
If it will not go down any further buy a new slave cylinder, this is an issue and you cannot use these measurements to accurately determine whether it's going to work or not. Trust me, I've done this a few times. More gap would be good... but I'm guessing that gap is going to be quite a bit larger than you want.
More gap would be good... but I'm guessing that gap is going to be quite a bit larger than you want.Do you sell shims?
07-28-2014, 05:00 PM
#17
That sounds more like it when you have a disengagement issue.
Get a hold of the guys at Tick Performance, they have shims on the shelf ready to ship and they're good guys.
Good luck with the setup, let me know if there is anything else I can do for you.
yeah but they've got me into A LOT of trouble too. I was most pleased to find out it was just the salve not be compressed all the way down. 