Short throw shifter install
#1
Short throw shifter install
I've looked around but haven't found a write-up. Got a hurst sts for my 99 5-speed FB. Just looking for someone to give me a link to throw me in the right direction. Thanks.
#3
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Pretty straight forward. Hardest part is vertical-izing the e-brake.
#4
I got it off core-shifters. It's also on eBay sold by the same name. It is hurst but they claim they've altered the base to be more "smoother and more robust." Very fast shipping as well.
#5
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=12
Pretty straight forward. Hardest part is vertical-izing the e-brake.
Pretty straight forward. Hardest part is vertical-izing the e-brake.
#6
TECH Enthusiast
The electrical cable from the front of the console area that heads to a safety switch (?) was out of its wiring clamp. And because it was out of position it made removing the console a lot harder. Be careful with the cable so you don't end up messing up anything. I'd also be sure I had a spare boot and plastic cup for the shifter ****. If you damage those during removal or find them damaged you'll wish you had a ready spare. Why go through all that trouble and not have a new plastic shifter cup? Do make note of which side the shifter handle bolts go on. If you do it wrong the shifter handle will run into console when reaching for REV gear. That <1/4" makes a big difference. An original style Hurst shifter probably comes with integral stops that you can't alter. The other brands or later Hursts will probably come with the screw in stops on each side.
The new short stick will probably bring more transmission noise into the cabin. There are some things you can do when re-assembling the shifter to reduce it (shifter handle gaskets, nylon washers, silencing material around the boot/base of shifter, etc.). The new shifter ball could induce noise all by itself if it's one of those plastic ones. Ideally, eliminating any straight metal to metal fits will reduce noise.
Last edited by Firebrian; 07-31-2014 at 04:54 PM.
#7
I have the orig 2 page instructions from Hurst and GM for the installation of their short throw shifter (the orig owner installed one in my car in 1999). You're better off with the link above as the Hurst/GM instructions are way too general. The first time I tried getting the console off it took me the better part of an hour. Now I can do it in about 5 min. Getting the E-brake up takes under 10 seconds. The hard part for me was trying to get the old boot off without destroying it as it was stuck hard to the car's body. Some of those boot fasteners were in so tight I needed a separate socket wrench with offset/extension to get to them. The others came off with a simple socket screwdriver.
The electrical cable from the front of the console area that heads to a safety switch (?) was out of its wiring clamp. And because it was out of position it made removing the console a lot harder. Be careful with the cable so you don't end up messing up anything. I'd also be sure I had a spare boot and plastic cup for the shifter ****. If you damage those during removal or find them damaged you'll wish you had a ready spare. Why go through all that trouble and not have a new plastic shifter cup? Do make note of which side the shifter handle bolts go on. If you do it wrong the shifter handle will run into console when reaching for REV gear. That <1/4" makes a big difference. An original style Hurst shifter probably comes with integral stops that you can't alter. The other brands or later Hursts will probably come with the screw in stops on each side.
The new short stick will probably bring more transmission noise into the cabin. There are some things you can do when re-assembling the shifter to reduce it (shifter handle gaskets, nylon washers, silencing material around the boot/base of shifter, etc.). The new shifter ball could induce noise all by itself if it's one of those plastic ones. Ideally, eliminating any straight metal to metal fits will reduce noise.
The electrical cable from the front of the console area that heads to a safety switch (?) was out of its wiring clamp. And because it was out of position it made removing the console a lot harder. Be careful with the cable so you don't end up messing up anything. I'd also be sure I had a spare boot and plastic cup for the shifter ****. If you damage those during removal or find them damaged you'll wish you had a ready spare. Why go through all that trouble and not have a new plastic shifter cup? Do make note of which side the shifter handle bolts go on. If you do it wrong the shifter handle will run into console when reaching for REV gear. That <1/4" makes a big difference. An original style Hurst shifter probably comes with integral stops that you can't alter. The other brands or later Hursts will probably come with the screw in stops on each side.
The new short stick will probably bring more transmission noise into the cabin. There are some things you can do when re-assembling the shifter to reduce it (shifter handle gaskets, nylon washers, silencing material around the boot/base of shifter, etc.). The new shifter ball could induce noise all by itself if it's one of those plastic ones. Ideally, eliminating any straight metal to metal fits will reduce noise.
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#8
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=12
Pretty straight forward. Hardest part is vertical-izing the e-brake.
Pretty straight forward. Hardest part is vertical-izing the e-brake.
#10
TECH Enthusiast
If you have a gray steel, straight-shafted, upper shifter attachment with a kink in it for noise reduction, that's factory GM. I'm not sure if the factory Hurst option (gray steel) was much shorter than that. My GM/Hurst short stick (chrome) is approx 2" shorter than the factory one and has an approx 15 deg bend in it (approx 6" long). In measuring the stock shifter bolted upper attachment, it's approx 8-1/2" long (if removed and measured). Any way you measure that (from the stub shaft support flange, bottom shaft bolt, or complete length) it's still 8" long. Any short stick would be measure considerably less than that.