LT1Bird97

Hi guys, been browsing these forums for quite awhile and since I actually couldnt find a thread on my problem I figured I'd make one.


So it seems like my clutch isnt disengaging, when I put it into first it will grind for a second until it catches. I have already had someone bleed my clutch and that didnt fix anything. Should I just replace the master/slave cylinder or could there be another problem to it? Any help to diagnose this problem would be greatly appreciated.

BALLSS

you can buy a complete MC/slave pre-bleed at most auto part stores or some place like rockauto.com for the LT1 pull type clutch for around $125

when you install the slave just leave the plastic strap attached, it breaks the first time you push the clutch pedal...but don't press pedal until you have the slave installed or you will blow it out

LT1Bird97

Ya I am considering doing that but if its another issue like the sychro then whats the point?

I guess this is the cheaper fix and might as well do it first

BALLSS

first confirm if you have a disengagement issue causing it hard to shift into 1st (and typically reverse also)with engine on

Just jack up rear of car, start motor, put in first with clutch pushed all the way down...do the tires still spin or are they stopped?

tires should not spin with clutch in if the clutch fully disengages.

if your clutch disengages right...syncro could be the problem or bent clutch fork or lose fork bolt

LT1Bird97

Thanks this is something very helpful. Will do this as soon as my buddy arrives with his jack and stands

BALLSS

you can also try on a flat smooth surface (like at a gas pump or your garage) revving it to 4-5k rpm...does the car creep forward with clutch fully depressed and in gear?

not as precise as the jack up method but if it did creep forward your clutch is not disengaging and hydraulics would be suspect

typically reverse is the hardest gear to get into if you have disengagement issues

LT1Bird97

ok well tires dont spin so looks like I get to pull the transmission yay

BALLSS

since you do have complete clutch disengagement....your hydraulics are working.

Your fork would also be good.

you're right, drop tranny and have it checked out

LT1Bird97

so since im planning on taking it to a shop would I be better off buying a rebuild kit like this one http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/it...17/3503769.htm and having them do it

or should I just see what they wanna do/charge

BALLSS

while those parts are most likely needed....I would wait until a "qualified" shop looks into it. Obviously the shop is for profit so discuss with them to see if there is a financial advantage to you if you supply parts

Often shops that do work using customers parts voids warranty if parts fail