Formula00ws6

Hey guys, I have had a hell of a time with my ws6, I have has this damn t56 built twice already, and it does the same thing. If I keep my shift points under 5,000 there's no problem, but if I try shifting at any higher rpm, it sticks. And I have to let the revs drop before I can shift out, any ideas??

ls1 1990 VN

I have the same issue with 2nd gear

BradSV8

When mine did this it was the black plastic tabs on the shift fork that was broken ( was a while back think that was the issue )

calhoon

iTrader: (6)

This is generally a problem of the clutch not fully releasing at higher RPM.
Fork pad wear has nothing to do with this problem.

BradSV8

My box was jamming in 4th wouldn't come out of gear clutch was fine.

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

what clutch setup is in the car ? have you bled the clutch hydraulics?

I have had similar issues due to heavier than stock LS7 clutch installed by previous owner , the posts I have read point the finger at the extra weight of certain clutch/flywheel combo's over stock and or the self adjusting pressure plate on the stock style clutches not fully releasing at higher rpm's.

The stock hydraulics work marginally with a stock clutch , ask them to do more and you will have shift blocking issues. GM knew the f bodies had a small ring gear that would cost them $$$ in warranty claims if the car could be shifted quickly...

the few things people do short of swapping out the clutch for a stock weight or lighter combo without the self adjusting pressure plate are adding an adjustable master cylinder such as Tick makes , drilling out the clutch hydraulic line fitting (search "drill mod" ) and keeping fresh clutch hydraulic fluid can help also... It improved mine noticeably using the "ranger" method , I suck the fluid out of the clutch reservoir a couple times a week and replace it with new fluid - takes a minute or 2 at most you will see it become clearer after 4 or 5 fluid swaps.

calhoon

iTrader: (6)

Sticking in 4th is a well documented problem with the stock aluminum 3/4 fork that wallows out at the rail.
The iron replacement is also a well documented cure.

01ss slp

My car just had the same problem its the master. Your going to have to buy a adjustable master. Buy the tick master its $330 but worth it. It won't be hard to shift at high rpms anymore. I wouldnt waste your time with the drill mod cause I bought a new master and did the drill mod and it didnt work so I busted out the pocket book and bought the tick master and I love it.

steve_young

I had that problem in on of the cars I owned. Changed the clutch did nothing ended up changing the throwout bearing and it fixed it. Had a tex oz 700 z grip. My guess was the throwout bearing was over extending the pressure plate and once the rpms dropped it would slam back. I was shifting at 6800. Ended up blowing the drive shaft at the rear weld

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

get a tick master , and was the slave shimmed and measured???

AMP-D

I have seen this issue remain even after a steel replacement fork was installed. Usually its accompanied by a clutch pedal that sticks to the floor when it happens. There are numerous theories but in all actuality, its a result of several factors that add up and create the issue.

dgcustomz

iTrader: (127)

Because it was never a fork issue…
The issue is in the master cylinder…

AMP-D

What about on applications where a master cylinder doesn't exist? IE Ford Mustang Cobra.

dgcustomz

iTrader: (127)

Same issues. Stretched cables, firewall adjusters not adjusted correctly, 2/3/4 position quadrants not set up correctly. I've been through it all. Clutch failure is 99% due to an installer error. It all begins with the master, cables, hydraulics etc…

Boss002

So i just stumbled upon this post and I am a newb to camaro's and even hydraulic clutch setups. My car is primarily an autocross car and I've recently experienced brake and high RPM shifting problems.

So you saying the Master Cylinder should fix these problems?