kookamunga

just installed my Spec stage 2+ and replaced all of the hydraulics. the clutch works just fine but the engagement is so close to the floor that it putting a lot of load on the synchros and shift forks. the master cylinder is a RAM adjustable unit and we haven't found any air during bleeding. This is a replacement unit for the SPEC stage 2 that saw 9 years of autocross duty and everything worked just fine up to when the disc wore down and pedal engagement was right off the top. could there still be air in the system. we did install the shim as the measured distance required it.

XDeath

iTrader: (2)

Never was a fan of shimming, so i find myself advocating for monster clutches more often when people have shifting or engagement problems, it checks off shimming as a possible problem..

But in your case, how new is your master cylinder? If its adjustable then it sounds like all you need is to raise the pedal.. If not, one way to check if there's bubbles in your hydraulics is to connect a hose to the bleeder screw (assuming you don't have a speed bleeder line which is a must have imo) and submerge it into a cup of brake fluid. Then just simply bleed the clutch and watch for bubbles in the cup. If none, then its fully bled.. Never really dealt with RAM MC's btw, and there's a reason why many people get the tick adjustable master instead.

If that isn't the problem, then id definitely say its a shimming issue..

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Probably seems dumb to ask, but is your pedal resting height the same as before? If its sitting lower, maybe the adjustment rod moved?

There could easily still be air in the system. Easiest bleed you'll ever do:

1. order remote bleeder kit from tick - $75
2. install remote bleeder
3. sit in your driver seat and bleed the clutch in 5 minutes.

kookamunga

ok re bled the system ..I do have the external bleeder line so its not so bad. still the engagement is a little low. funny thing is its not like the clutch pedal is soft or has an excessive amount of free play but the clutch engages pretty close to the floor. the RAM master cylinder has an adjustable rod to adjust pedal height which doesn't do much for actual hydraulic movement unless you set the pedal excessively low or high. Its essentially a stock master cylinder with an adjustable rod. the car is used for SCCA SOLO events and makes maybe 800 miles a year. That said how much will the pedal move once the disk is fully broken in?

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I doubt the pedal will change much at all if the disc is broken in or not. If you lengthen the rod, it will engage higher off the floor, but it will take the same amount of pedal travel to get there. Higher starting point, higher engagement point, more clutch clearance when the pedal hits the floor.

It would be alot easier to make the rod longer and see if just giving it more pedal will than to rip everything apart. it took me a month of tweaking my adjustable to set it right - and I drive it every day.

kookamunga

"ok I bvled the crap out of and we'll see how it goes. lengthened the rod a bit to get a little better disengagement. don't care for the pedal so high as it off plane from the other pedals. will just take some getting use to as the car is used only for autox and doesn't get driven much. really don't wanna spend another $300 for a Tick master cyl if I don't have to

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I hear you, but after going through several stockers, I changed my tune and very much like it. The tick will sit lower, because the bore is 2x larger than the stock bore. Don't need as much pedal travel to move the fluid.

kookamunga

ok the clutch seems to be settling down and the travel is getting better. thanx for all the help guys. ended up bleeding it waaaaay longer this time and didn't see any air but who knows

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

It may be that bleeding it as much as you did, you got some old fluid and junk out of there and it started acting right. Either way, glad you got it.