TempleU_WS6

iTrader: (6)

Changing out a clutch, and slave cylinder on stock 99 WS6 with 70k miles, what is a decent clutch for daily driving and could take some power later.

What else should I do while I'm in there, this is my first clutch swap.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Look into the LUK PN 04905. It is basically a complete LS7 kit with the flywheel, pilot, end bearing. I would add to that a new slave and call it a day.

Andrew

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

i would go monster stage 1 with aluminum flywheel

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

Go with a monster stage 2 , tick master cylinder , and gm slave , go with the flywheel of your choice.

Whatever you get , make sure you get a tick speed bleeder , it has to be installed when the trans is out , and you really should get a tick master . I got one and was like this is what all the hype is about . If you dont you can always install that later . But its so much easier with the trans out .

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

The Monster Level 2 is a good setup for what you want. It will drive very close to stock and is rated to 550 WHP, so it will support some mods down the road. Feel free to give us a call if you have any questions.

Also a remote bleeder, slave cylinder, and new rear main seal are a good idea while your in there.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I left that out of mine, but definitely go with the tick master and bleeder. You can get a kit from tick that is the master, slave, bleeder, monster clutch, flywheel, pilot bearing. Everything you need for a complete, worry-free swap. Well worth it.

You might look and go "yikes, that's expensive", but when you're re-doing the work, it doesn't feel expensive anymore.

SIC GTO

You cant use the pilot, TOB or slave that it comes with. But Its still a hell of a deal to get a LS7 clutch and flywheel for about $320. That's what I did.

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

Don't go LS7, and I used to recommend this setup. I had one in my car from 2006ish-2015, with 40k miles, and less than 10 track passes. It lost the ability to shift past 5.5k, even with a Tick master and endless clutch bleeding. The clutch had tons of life left, and 0 heat spots on the pressure plate or flywheel. I replaced the LS7 with a Monster stage 2 and it works great.

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

+1 more for the Monster Level 2. I'm still on stock power and switching from the stocker to the level 2 with Tick hydraulics was night and day.

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

my exact experience , holds fine but blocks shifts once above 5k pretty frequently and that's with weekly fluid changes which help as does very cold weather when it will actually shift at 6k

TempleU_WS6

iTrader: (6)

So what do you think is causing this? That's too bad since the price is so good.

CGSmith0524

I'm in the same boat.... My 02 SS has 30,000 miles and I'm wanting to replace the original clutch. For the most part, my car is all original, unmolested, so it's hard to justify over $800 for a Monster Stage II.

I'm read both great reviews and not so great reviews on the LS7 Clutch. But, I drive my car about 5,000 miles a year, I don't race it every weekend, and I don't drop the clutch at 5,500 RPM's. However, I do shift it at 6,000 when I'm doing some spirited driving....

For a car that is mostly stock, is the Monster Clutch worth double the cost?!?

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

I'll stick to what I said. Tick hydraulics, Monster clutch and an MGW shifter were the biggest improvement I've ever had from a set of mods. The car is so much more fun to drive.

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

I've heard it has something to do with the LS7 being self adjusting. But that's just me being a parrot.

If you can get a great deal on an LS7, and don't mind pulling the transmission, I'd say go for it. In my case it lasted ~9 years (40k miles) before it started messing up. Back then it was a $500ish LS7 setup, or $1000 for about the same clutch setup. These were days well before Monster came around lol. But if Monster was around back then, it would have been installed, and saved me money.

CGSmith0524

I completely understand and respect what you are saying..... I do not want to hijack the OP's thread. I already have the Tick Hydraulics and I Love the Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder. I bought the MGW Shifter, got a Military Discount, I would recommend that company to Anyone. All I can say is excellent customer service!!

My plan was to install it when I replace the clutch. Problem is- I'm having the hardest time trying to justify the cost of a Monster.

TempleU_WS6

iTrader: (6)

No worries, that still very related to my original query for a few reasons.
I was asking for my self and because I'm putting in a new clutch and slave for a customer at the shop I work at. His is a 99 WS6 and he wants to keep it pretty much stock. I on the other hand want to go much bigger with my '02 WS6.

This guy may be selling the car so he's looking at a more cost effective or cheaper clutch set up, where as I want quality that will perform.

I'm leaning heavily towards the set up that you have blackandgold, but what would be another cheap option for this guys 99 since it seems more than a few of you have had issues with an LS7?

brigade24

OP going with a tick master cylinder will increase your pedal effort but your pedal travel may be reduced...it's a good unit but overkill for street use. You should however install a speed bleeder as it will def. simplify bleeding the slave.

Monster makes very good robust clutches...the pressure plate fin-like "springs" will add a some stiffness (not a lot..but enough to notice) to the pedal so that is something to think about if you spend time in traffic.

I've got a ML2 with a tick master in my car and the pedal is stiff...i mostly compete (lapping/autox) with the car so it doesnt bother me but for some, this will affect the fun factor...when your car is no longer fun to drive..you will stop driving it.

For street use and street use only...the LS7 setup is good. if you plan on competing, regardless of the discipline then you should look for something more robust (Monster, CenterForce, some McLeods, there are a few others).

if possible, I recommend trying a car with different setups...see how it feels that way, you can put your money down with confidence.

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

I've got the Monster Stage 3 with a lightweight flywheel and despite what many say it's completely daily drivable. But you do have to change you driving style since this clutch does NOT like to slip. It will chatter when you ride the clutch too long (backing up on a set of rhino ramps for example).

And actually right now the level 3 is cheaper than the level 2 on monster's web site.

ADM

I am in the market for an LS7 clutch for a DD, but wonder why you would have trouble shifting above 5K when it comes as OEM for an engine that redlines much higher?

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

it only came in vettes which had better hydraulics than f bodies