z28_YOU_HO

iTrader: (7)

Whats up tech gurus.

I want to make sure this is fixed the 1st time so I don't have to spend more money later. I have been reading up on the pressure plate and the tick master cylinder and want to know which one is going to solve my issue.

The problem is under high RPM shifts (over 5500) usually going into 3rd or 4th gear, when trying to shift the clutch pedal is just stuck to the floor. There is no grinding or anything it just hits a wall and will not let me go into gear until the clutch pressure returns.

I have read many people say a tick master will solve this issue but upon further research it is my understanding that changing out the clutch with a new pressure plate is sometimes the issue all along. Multiple post on new clutch install still on stock master and banging gears at 7k RPM.

Options on what to do please. I'm trying to do it right the first time and not waste time or money addressing the issue.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Quick test for you. Disconnect the clutch line at the slave disconnect. There is a check valve in there, so fluid should not leak on the master side.

Try to push the clutch pedal in. It shouldn't move without the assistance of your pet gorilla more than a cm or two. If with constant pressure, you can get the pedal to continue dripping, the master will need to be replaced - even if the pressure plate is still at issue.

Now, I'm sort of assuming you have a stock clutch since I can't see sigs on my phone app. If you do, the plate is likely soft. The fingers themselves lose some memory over time, reducing the return force. Also, the self adjusting mechanism on the clutch is notorious for killing fluid return pressure.

Then, there is that orifice restrictor in the line that was installed to slow down clutch engagement by the factory to protect the Barbie 10-bolt from the T56, and that also kills fluid return as the clutch ages.

Bottom line, I suspect you will need to replace both to restore clutch performance. If you do the test I suggested above, and the pedal is rock hard, you will definitely need to replace the pressure plate. You might be lucky enough to get away with that only.

Sometimes, you can luck out and do the drill mod and flush out the fluid to restore clutch performance. It didn't work for me, but it is the cheapest fix and therefore worth a shot. Whatever you do, you should do the drill mod while its apart.

z28_YOU_HO

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the detailed response. I have actually already done the drill mod and it has not helped at all. The clutch is a stock ls6 with 52k miles on the car. It grabs good and doesn't slip to my knowledge. It will spin the tires dumping it 2nd gear with 3.42's.

It's an 02 also and I hear those have the better masters

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Then if the master holds with the line disconnected, likely the plate

z28_YOU_HO

iTrader: (7)

Thats what Im thinking Oh well clutch needs to be done sooner or later anyways

You were saying that if it drips fluid from the quick disconnect AT ALL it is the master correct?

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

When you disconnect, some will leak out for a few seconds. If it keeps dripping it is just a bad check valve. It's only purpose is to allow you to disconnect without draining the reservoir.

But the check valve is built into the line, so to fix that you'd have to pull the master to get the line off.

The main thing is the pedal should be incredibly firm. If it is, the master is fine.