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To say you don't like a 25lb clutch behind a v8 is kinda absurd tony. Honda 4cyl come stock with like a 30-32lb clutch set up. I'll continue to take my chances with a 25lb or less clutch.
You seem to be taking my opinion kind of personal for some reason....there is nothing absurd about it.
But you overlooked the fact I was also trying to convey in my previous post(s) that there are different strokes for different folks regarding what clutch may or may not be ideal.
No....I don't want to put serious street miles in a 3500 ish lb car with a small diameter 25 lb clutch (lighter even worse). It simply doesn't have enough inertia to be comfy ("invisible" enough for me) in stop and go traffic. Yes its awesome for street racing and and awesome at the track and at the dyno for that matter as well....but I'm not willing to pay the penalty in the way it drives in a car I want to drive alot.
Even the clutch I'm promoting here will take most a little time to get used to (especially if your coming out a standard set-up that weighs 40-55 lbs). Its quite a different feel and you will have to adjust the way you drive
There is no right and wrong.....only whats right or wrong for the individual in question. I also wouldn't want to drive a modded 346 with a 240 @ .050 camshaft....I feel the penalty in low RPM torque and part throttle sogginess isn't worth the small gain you get upstairs. Other's could daily drive that same combination and not care less.....its just not my cup of tea.
There is no one cam that fits all and there is no one clutch that fits all.....in fact I don't even recommend this clutch to guys that are looking for a really stock like driver and I can just tell from speaking with then that they don't push their car hard. I purposely point em towards the Street Twin which is about 8 lbs heavier....still a really good shifting clutch and lighter than stock but it has alot more inertia to get the car moving easier. My opinion regarding clutch weight and MOI, is that is that there is a happy medium and its a moving target depending on who's azz is in the seat!
I'm not taking it personal at all. It just seems ludicrous to me that some think a,ls with a 30lb clutch would be less streetable than a 4cyl honda that comes oe with a 30lb clutch.
To add to this a mustang has had a 40lb clutch/fly assembly for many many years. 03/04 cobras had aluminum flywheels from the factory. I don't hear anyone saying those cars are unstreetable and there engines have far less tq at typical street type clutch engagements. To think a ls needs a 50-60lb clutch assembly to be streetable is nonsense.
My clutch is very light. I will agree it may not be for everyone. But i can take off in with out touching the gas if need be to move it around slowly. It does not need to be revved beyond normal rpms to take off. Some of it is in the tuning. Reducing or eliminating the throttle cracker helps a light clutch alot.
You mentioned cams and streetability.....my clutch is more streetable than about any cammed car i have ever been around. But if streetability is truly someones concern they should probably leave their car stock. If acceleration is their concern then a low MOI and light weight clutch should be very near the top of their list
Your welcome. I think the follower is more of s decay rate from the cracker.....not 100% sure on that though. So when you turn the cracker off the follower gets turned off also.
Your welcome. I think the follower is more of s decay rate from the cracker.....not 100% sure on that though. So when you turn the cracker off the follower gets turned off also.
Are these the drive by wire throttle bodies both of you are referencing??
Ok, part wY into it and taking a break. Got the tranny off. I'm sure others have thought of this trick, but saved me a good hour over the last time I pulled the tranny.
I left the clutch line hooked up, and one press of the clutch pedal moved the tranny off the dowel pins. So, from the time I got the bolts out to the time I had the tranny out from under the car was less than two minutes.
Got some cool pics of the monster S3 that came out with 15K on it. Still looks very good. I was quite impressed at its condition.
I wish I knew what clutch Danny Popp uses in his (electron blue, Ultimate Street Car Challenge) C5 Z06.
The de-stroked (to 383) LS7 in that thing just SINGS!!
His shifts seem lightning quick as well.
Tony M.; are there any road race people using this alloy/carbon clutch pictured above, or only street/drag racers??
I have helped a handful of guys that road race this clutch also....works really well in any application really.
Its strikes just the right balance if you own any hotrod or sports car that's a dual purpose vehicle (meaning street and track use).
Its light enough and designed to obviously maximize the MOI effect (especially with the "Mamofied" version that has the CNC windows in the flywheel), ultimately boosting engine "zing" and responsiveness as well as RWHP and RWTQ figures by not having to accelerate all that extra mass.....BUT, it has enough inertia to be reasonably street friendly once your used to the way it engages and drives.
The icing on the cake is the ability to speed shift it cleanly and also all the shifts come with a lot less shifting effort which is especially bonus....a feature you constantly appreciate whether you drive the car hard or not reminding you of why it was well spent money! (helps ease the memory of the hurt on the wallet....LOL)
Im curious what Danny Popp uses also....it's likely a multi disc really small diameter light weight road race clutch (LG style). Great for track use....not so great on the street
Painted a light layer of valve grinding compound onto the input shaft for deburring
Slide any parts with splines on them back on forth, rotating to different splines on occasion to fully deburr all parts and ensure free motion
All clean and shiny! don't forget to thoroughly clean everything with brake parts cleaner to get all abrasive materials gone
I wanted to take pictures every step of the way, but I needed three hands. Here it is fully installed. While tightening down the PP, two hints. 1, I put the outer disc in the pressure plate, because it kept trying to fall . 2, Push IN on the centering tool to make sure it is centered. Once you get two PP bolts tight, you can let go of the tool
Doesn't RPS sell one that's 25lbs w/Aluminum flywheel? But that's like $2395.
A little too light for my taste....that's the one of the lighter weight clutches I mentioned/alluded to in one of my previous posts that I drove and felt it didn't quite have enough inertia for my liking.
Great for a car that mainly sees track duty....not worth much in power from the unit I'm selling however (a pony or two at best), and the modded steel wheel is much easier to live with day to day. Its more invisible....your not always reminded there is a really light flywheel/clutch assembly in the car when your driving it on the street.
Ok, whoever posted the suggestion about three months ago to crack the bleeder while installing the transmission, I owe you a six pack!!!
The other thing I did was to take a carbide but that just barely fit in the dowel holes and spun it a few times to get all the crud out. And took some 180 grit to the dowel pins to get them shiny again.
I've never had one go in that easy. Went all the way home on the second try. Tightened up the bolts and started getting the car back together.
If my family was traveling I would get it running tonight. However, they aren't, so done for the night. With any decent amount of luck I'll be running tomorrow.
Yep. And all hand tools. I keep telling my wife I need air tools, and she keeps pointing out how much I get done without them. I can't seem to win that argument.
Went home on lunch break, installed the exhaust tips, filled fluids, and started the car. First impressions - I was able to shift gears using only the stub off the shifter - no rod or ****. And it didn't take much effort. The pedal is in exactly the same spot as it was on the monster S3.
Need to shout out to that Tick master and speedbleeder. I mean, five minutes to get a firm pedal after a clutch change!
No road test yet, but I have confirmed idle shifting with the engine on. Other impression is that it sounds awesome. The idle was hunting a bit, so I'll need to get in and tweak the idle settings - just as predicted by HioSSilver.
I'm hoping to road test either later today or tomorrow. I need to heat cycle and then check all my bolt torques before putting her on the ground. Nothing worse than having to go back in for another surgery for something dumb.
11-25-2015, 11:02 PM
