RPS Lightened Carbon Twin Disc Install / Review
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RPS Lightened Carbon Twin Disc Install / Review
I debated back and forth on putting this in my build thread in the internal engine section, but changed my mind. I'll link to it over in the other thread.
This is a modified version of the BCS street twin, lightened by Tony Mamo, and I think you can only get it through Tony. Total weight on this is 33 pounds.
I just got it in the mail a few days ago, and finally got to open the box:
Here is how the clutch was packaged. Pretty damn nice packing job.
Fully assembled and bolted together as received from the vendor. This was actually quite helpful, as in taking it apart, you see how it goes back together
Very nice and clear instructions
Here is all the hardware that came with it. I was surprised to get ARP bolts as a part of the package
Here is the alignment window so that when you reassemble it, it is balanced properly. Also, note the windows in the flywheel circumference for weight reduction
Looking inside one of the windows at all the carbon friction disc goodness.
This is a modified version of the BCS street twin, lightened by Tony Mamo, and I think you can only get it through Tony. Total weight on this is 33 pounds.
I just got it in the mail a few days ago, and finally got to open the box:
Here is how the clutch was packaged. Pretty damn nice packing job.
Fully assembled and bolted together as received from the vendor. This was actually quite helpful, as in taking it apart, you see how it goes back together
Very nice and clear instructions
Here is all the hardware that came with it. I was surprised to get ARP bolts as a part of the package
Here is the alignment window so that when you reassemble it, it is balanced properly. Also, note the windows in the flywheel circumference for weight reduction
Looking inside one of the windows at all the carbon friction disc goodness.
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Continuing with the clutch ****:
Here is what it looks like under the pressure plate. Not what you were expecting? Me neither
Bottom of the pressure plate
Closer look under the hood. Note the numerical tags to help make sure you get the thing back tog ether properly
Here is what is underneath the upper disc
Here is what it looks like under the pressure plate. Not what you were expecting? Me neither
Bottom of the pressure plate
Closer look under the hood. Note the numerical tags to help make sure you get the thing back tog ether properly
Here is what is underneath the upper disc
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And yet more clutch **** in case you're still in the bathroom...
Bottom side of the upper disc (part #5) with one of the floaters stuck to it
This is one of the carbon floaters that is in there
Here is what's under the lower disc
This is the lower disc all by itself
Removal of the last floater. In the lower left corner, you can see the carbon friction material also attached to the flywheel
This gear looking piece ties the whole clutch together. The inner splines go with the input shaft. The outer splines mesh with the carbon floaters. When the pedal is in, the floaters will slip freely between the discs. When the pedal is out, the floaters grab the discs, which turns the transmission (the discs are always turning with the pressure plate and flywheel
Here are all the parts scattered out for your viewing pleasure. The "mousetrap" game was a separate purchase and not included with the kit
Bottom side of the upper disc (part #5) with one of the floaters stuck to it
This is one of the carbon floaters that is in there
Here is what's under the lower disc
This is the lower disc all by itself
Removal of the last floater. In the lower left corner, you can see the carbon friction material also attached to the flywheel
This gear looking piece ties the whole clutch together. The inner splines go with the input shaft. The outer splines mesh with the carbon floaters. When the pedal is in, the floaters will slip freely between the discs. When the pedal is out, the floaters grab the discs, which turns the transmission (the discs are always turning with the pressure plate and flywheel
Here are all the parts scattered out for your viewing pleasure. The "mousetrap" game was a separate purchase and not included with the kit
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Hoping I get to install this over Thanksgiving holiday. I'll keep you posted as to how the install goes, etc.
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If possible over thanksgiving. I also have this nagging oil pan leak I'll try to kill at the same time.
#7
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Thanks for posting and the info of how everything works. Looks like a really nice piece but very expensive. 33 pounds is really nice I want something to go in my car that does not weigh but around 30 pounds or less. I just can't see spending all that money on something just to gain a little bit of hp back(in my car) but may hurt me on my launch. My monster level3 weighs in around 55lbs I think, I'll weigh it again next inspection. I just hate the weight of it.
I like it and hope you have good luck with it.
I like it and hope you have good luck with it.
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#8
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Good thread. I talked to Tony about this for almost an hour one night on the phone. Super cool guy. It's the "Holy Grail" of clutches as he calls it.
I think if you have the money saved up and you plan on keeping a car forever, the decision is simple. He said it's like driving a totally different car after the clutch is installed.
Thanks for posting this!
I think if you have the money saved up and you plan on keeping a car forever, the decision is simple. He said it's like driving a totally different car after the clutch is installed.
Thanks for posting this!
#9
looks to be a very nice clutch.
I have the off the shelf McLeod Street Twin.......a tip I can pass on about twin disc clutches is really make sure your opti rotor is loc tite on......your aggressive shifts with a non sprung disc(s) will be extremely "crisp" and that shock load does take its toll on parts up & down stream of your clutch.
I am referring to "racing" shifting vs normal day to day driving.
Damm nice looking unit though
I have the off the shelf McLeod Street Twin.......a tip I can pass on about twin disc clutches is really make sure your opti rotor is loc tite on......your aggressive shifts with a non sprung disc(s) will be extremely "crisp" and that shock load does take its toll on parts up & down stream of your clutch.
I am referring to "racing" shifting vs normal day to day driving.
Damm nice looking unit though
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Both, actually. Twin Billet Carbon Series. It is something that Tony designed in conjunction with RPS, so you probably have to go through Tony to get it. Sort of like those YT rockers that are exclusive to Tony as well
#12
If you meant street twin series or billet cover series then according to their web site that would make sense. The st-1/2 is the only one without full carbon discs.
http://turboclutch.com/
http://turboclutch.com/
Last edited by gsteele; 11-24-2015 at 07:13 PM.
#13
Thanks for posting and the info of how everything works. Looks like a really nice piece but very expensive. 33 pounds is really nice I want something to go in my car that does not weigh but around 30 pounds or less. I just can't see spending all that money on something just to gain a little bit of hp back(in my car) but may hurt me on my launch. My monster level3 weighs in around 55lbs I think, I'll weigh it again next inspection. I just hate the weight of it.
I like it and hope you have good luck with it.
I like it and hope you have good luck with it.
Having driven ALOT of different clutches, IMO the "Mamofied" version of the BC2 RPS represents the perfect balance of light weight and all the benefits that gives you in responsiveness and freeing up power at the wheels, while still providing enough inertia that your not constantly reminded the clutch is so light and you have to drive the car differently (more difficult to tune also if you go too light, especially with a larger cammed car). Also, this clutch acts a little lighter than its straight up weight on the scale would indicate cause the bulk of the weight is centrally located....the CNC windows you see in the flywheel knock 5 lbs of mass about as far from center as possible giving you the most benefits regarding MOI (moment of inertia). A normal clutch without the windows that weighed the same would act heavier in the car....it would not have as much response and would not free up as much power at the wheels as this clutch the way the weight of the clutch is configured.
There is soooo much more to a performance clutch than just holding power (and in some cases also being lightweight). The ability to speed shift it with clutch discs made from exotic materials that weigh ounces and not pounds is amazing.....not only will your buddies be impressed with your new shifting abilities, your synchros will last alot longer and thank you for it as well. You have to keep in mind how much you interface with that left pedal.....a clutch like the one we are discussing here can completely change the personality of the car for the better making it more of a true performance vehicle without the typical downsides attached.
I mean look at the pictures Darth was kind enough to provide here in this thread....sure its more money but the difference compared to a regular design (and even most conventional twin disc designs) is night and day. And pricing has come down from years ago where I was selling something from RPS (not even as well designed as this piece) in the 3K range. The problem is the carbon....its a bitch to purchase and machine.....only due to latest deals cut on the product by buying huge volume and new machining techniques which reduce CNC time, this allowed RPS to drop it at least closer to the means of some enthusiasts. Its still a healthy chunk of change no doubt but make no mistake about the fact this is an exotic clutch and while it does cost some more your getting every bit of your money's worth in design, the components themselves, and functionality.
Having driven manual powered high powered cars for 35 years now (scary fact for me!), I can tell you this clutch is the "Holy Grail" of clutches in my opinion having driven alot of different stuff even in the same car (I had at least a half dozen clutches in my C5 till working with Rob at RPS on the early prototypes of this design in 2005 or so).
Also....whats strange is it never wears out if you drive it properly. After 3 years, a couple of hundred dyno pulls, and countless blasts to 7200 with my 540 RWHP 383 Corvette, when I took the clutch out, the inside of the bellhousing was completely clean and the clutch looked like I installed it a week ago with almost zero signs of dust on the blue pressure plate. Even the discs still showed some areas that were still "breaking in" 3 years later.....it was bizarre and I took this pic cause I was blown away and wanted to share it with Rob and the boys at RPS. ("Normal" clutch materials wear like brake pads leaving dust everywhere).
For the guys that can justify saving longer or digging deeper in their pockets you will be glad you did and that's the main reason I spent the time I did in this thread. Its not unlike buying any other high quality/high dollar purchase....once the purchase is made the hurt on the wallet tends to start fading away and the high quality (and functionality in this case) lingers on for years!
If you guys have specific questions its better to email me than PM but both works.....or ring me on the contact info in my sig.
Cheers,
Tony
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Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
#14
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Good write up tony......good buy op.
Ima fan of light clutches as mine weighs 17lb complete. I would've liked to have seen this one a little lighter. 33lb is still just a bit heavy. I think around 25 lb would be about optimal. These type of clutches are far better than the oem style replacement pieces.......DO NOT BE SCARED TO SPEND EXTRA $ ON A CLUTCH LIKE THIS. You will have the benefit of being able to rebuild it and it could save you $ in the end.
I would be nice if clutches came with a moi rating.
Here is my clutch
Ima fan of light clutches as mine weighs 17lb complete. I would've liked to have seen this one a little lighter. 33lb is still just a bit heavy. I think around 25 lb would be about optimal. These type of clutches are far better than the oem style replacement pieces.......DO NOT BE SCARED TO SPEND EXTRA $ ON A CLUTCH LIKE THIS. You will have the benefit of being able to rebuild it and it could save you $ in the end.
I would be nice if clutches came with a moi rating.
Here is my clutch
#17
9 Second Club
Why do they rivet the carbon to what I presume are steel backing plates ?
Why not just use carbon for those parts like some of the Jap clutch makers do ?
RPS seem to rivet lots of small pieces of carbon to make each disc or floater ?
PS, OP has floaters and friction plates mixed up in text.
Why not just use carbon for those parts like some of the Jap clutch makers do ?
RPS seem to rivet lots of small pieces of carbon to make each disc or floater ?
PS, OP has floaters and friction plates mixed up in text.
#18
Why do they rivet the carbon to what I presume are steel backing plates ?
Why not just use carbon for those parts like some of the Jap clutch makers do ?
RPS seem to rivet lots of small pieces of carbon to make each disc or floater ?
PS, OP has floaters and friction plates mixed up in text.
Why not just use carbon for those parts like some of the Jap clutch makers do ?
RPS seem to rivet lots of small pieces of carbon to make each disc or floater ?
PS, OP has floaters and friction plates mixed up in text.
Bottom line....some guys would argue a T-rex cam in a 346 is totally drivable while others would laugh at that comment. Sure....you can drive it but it does not and never will have the real streetability a cam 10-15 degrees smaller will have in the same size motor. It's all about your reference point and how much of a refined hot rod you like or prefer driving. Different strokes for different folks....a combo thats perfect for one person might be completely unacceptable to another.....the whole clutch situation is very similar and I feel this lightened BC2 I sell does an awesome job of blurring the line of both notably improved responsiveness and performance and good street manners that perhaps your wife with a couple of practice runs (and a few stalled engine when the light goes green moments), could be able to drive....LOL Also the super lightweight carbon clutches (with no spring loaded marcel to drag against the pressure plate and floaters), give you a really effortless feel when it comes to shifting and can be speed-shifted without the dreadful feel of missing that next gear.
I think you guys will get even better independent feedback from DarthV8r.....looking forward to him getting this baby up and running again, especially with the new exhaust.
-Tony
PS.....Check out these shifts with my 383 and the first design of the Mamofied RPS from close to a decade ago....with a more "standard" design (single or multi-disc) it would be almost impossible to do this (at least a few time in a row!). A classic video that the "old timers" and some of you have certainly seen already, but for those that haven't its the sweet sound of a well designed N/A LS engine!
__________________
www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
Last edited by Tony @ Mamo Motorsports; 11-25-2015 at 06:45 PM.
#20
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To say you don't like a 25lb clutch behind a v8 is kinda absurd tony. Honda 4cyl come stock with like a 30-32lb clutch set up. I'll continue to take my chances with a 25lb or less clutch.