Can't pass rev test, McLeod RXT, Tick MC
#1
Can't pass rev test, McLeod RXT, Tick MC
Just got done installing a new to me viperized t56. Using a new GM slave, tick Mc, and I measured for a shim. Came up with both measurement A and B being almost close to the same. So I didn't install a shim.
So I have the trans installed, and bled. I bled it like the "how to properly bleed a tick MC" sticky describes. It has really good pedal. Last few pumps while bleeding had a ton of fluid being moved and very powerful stream. Trans shifts really good. Have not tried any power shifts. But high rpm shifting seems pretty smooth.
I started with the pedal just barely below the brake pedal. Clutch released a couple inches off the floor. This is also where it was when I drove it. But it would start to creep forward. I kept adjusting the pedal out a few turns at a time until I bottomed out the adjustment. It got better, but would still move forward around 5k.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't adding a shim make this condition worse? What's my next course of action here?
So I have the trans installed, and bled. I bled it like the "how to properly bleed a tick MC" sticky describes. It has really good pedal. Last few pumps while bleeding had a ton of fluid being moved and very powerful stream. Trans shifts really good. Have not tried any power shifts. But high rpm shifting seems pretty smooth.
I started with the pedal just barely below the brake pedal. Clutch released a couple inches off the floor. This is also where it was when I drove it. But it would start to creep forward. I kept adjusting the pedal out a few turns at a time until I bottomed out the adjustment. It got better, but would still move forward around 5k.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't adding a shim make this condition worse? What's my next course of action here?
#4
Talked to tick and they told me that adding a shim would make it worse. Which is what I was thinking...
I also found my notes when I was measuring. Here was the measurements...
Measurement A
2.109
2.110
2.055
2.091
2.085
2.110
2.093 AVG
---------------
Measurement B
2.087
2.137
2.176
2.188
2.143
2.129
2.143 AVG
I also found my notes when I was measuring. Here was the measurements...
Measurement A
2.109
2.110
2.055
2.091
2.085
2.110
2.093 AVG
---------------
Measurement B
2.087
2.137
2.176
2.188
2.143
2.129
2.143 AVG
#5
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Similar set up and symptoms on this thread. OP was able to figure out the problem, which was a bad friction disc:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...diagnosis.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...diagnosis.html
#6
Outside of the measurement/shim point.....FWIW this is what Billy @ McLeod said about larger bore MC with the RST/RXT
"The RST/RXT pressure plate is designed with the factory hydraulics stroke of .440” in mind, thus requiring factory master & slave to be used for proper operation."
I don't know if TICK uses a larger than stock MC bore. Just passing on what I got for 411 when I asked Billy ?'s about the RST
Billy Mieczkowski
Technical Sales
Mcleod Racing
1600 Sierra Madre Circle
Placentia, Ca 92870
billym@mcleodracing.com
tel:714 630 2764 Ext 223
fax:714 630 5129
"The RST/RXT pressure plate is designed with the factory hydraulics stroke of .440” in mind, thus requiring factory master & slave to be used for proper operation."
I don't know if TICK uses a larger than stock MC bore. Just passing on what I got for 411 when I asked Billy ?'s about the RST
Billy Mieczkowski
Technical Sales
Mcleod Racing
1600 Sierra Madre Circle
Placentia, Ca 92870
billym@mcleodracing.com
tel:714 630 2764 Ext 223
fax:714 630 5129
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#10
I didn't ask Billy detail of "why" a stock MC vs a larger bore (I am assuming the TICK MC is) but I don't think that is your problem. A larger bore MC would likely shorten the stroke over a stock size. Don't think it would cause disengagement issues.
Contact Billy or Lee @ McLeod about your specific issue, measurements and the bore size of your MC.
I suspect they also sell a aftermarket MC of stock size bore. They use the Wilwood compact MC in various vehicle specific bore sizes and then add whatever "adapter" plate to mount it in stock location/orientation and provide a adjustable rod.
Not knocking the TICK (IIRC uses Tilton MC) at all, just suggesting a alternate to their MC and one that likely is stock bore size MC if you want something other than a GM MC
Ironically their Street Twin for the "LT1 "pull" twin requires a larger bore MC which they include in that kit but the push type in the LS platform is designed for stock MC bore.
My own experience with dealing with McLeod on my twin install was positive and I got quick emails back when I had ?'s
Contact Billy or Lee @ McLeod about your specific issue, measurements and the bore size of your MC.
I suspect they also sell a aftermarket MC of stock size bore. They use the Wilwood compact MC in various vehicle specific bore sizes and then add whatever "adapter" plate to mount it in stock location/orientation and provide a adjustable rod.
Not knocking the TICK (IIRC uses Tilton MC) at all, just suggesting a alternate to their MC and one that likely is stock bore size MC if you want something other than a GM MC
Ironically their Street Twin for the "LT1 "pull" twin requires a larger bore MC which they include in that kit but the push type in the LS platform is designed for stock MC bore.
My own experience with dealing with McLeod on my twin install was positive and I got quick emails back when I had ?'s
#11
I have called and talked to him about the issues. I'm probably going to swap in a stock master I have laying around and try it. If it doesn't fix it I'm going to sell it and buy something I know works with the tick. Probably a spec twin. They're local and I've always had great experiences with them.
I love the way the RXT drives. It even shifts good. Just can't tear up this expensive trans with a clutch that won't completely disengage.
I love the way the RXT drives. It even shifts good. Just can't tear up this expensive trans with a clutch that won't completely disengage.
#13
FormerVendor
iTrader: (3)
I would like to just drop a little light on this subject.
First off our master kit is "adjustable" and by being so you can change the ammount of fluid that is pushed to your slave cylinder. Lets say that the factory master cylinder moves 10cc of fluid, ok and you install our master with the pedal 1" lower than the stock setup would have been, and it moves 10cc of fluid. At this point both the factory master and our master are doing the same ammount of work.
To say that the master has to be changed is incorrect, however the adjustment of the maste will need to change for the new clutch.
First off our master kit is "adjustable" and by being so you can change the ammount of fluid that is pushed to your slave cylinder. Lets say that the factory master cylinder moves 10cc of fluid, ok and you install our master with the pedal 1" lower than the stock setup would have been, and it moves 10cc of fluid. At this point both the factory master and our master are doing the same ammount of work.
To say that the master has to be changed is incorrect, however the adjustment of the maste will need to change for the new clutch.