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McLeod RST Hot Spots after only 1000 miles

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Old 03-19-2016, 11:58 PM
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Default McLeod RST Hot Spots after only 1000 miles

So I have a Mcleod RST with about 1000 street miles on it. I have the trans out and decided to have a look at the clutch. The pressure plate flywheel, and floater disc all have hot spots. The flywheel seems to show most of the hot spots on only one side. I have had a good amount of chatter since the first test drive. McLeod said it would eventually dissapear but it seems to be getting worse.

Can anyone tell me why I am getting hot spots? Do you think the chatter is related?
Attached Thumbnails McLeod RST Hot Spots after only 1000 miles-img_4513.jpg   McLeod RST Hot Spots after only 1000 miles-img_4516.jpg   McLeod RST Hot Spots after only 1000 miles-img_4515.jpg  
Old 03-21-2016, 08:30 AM
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I've sent an email to McLeod but would like some feedback here from others who have experienced similar. Any thoughts on what could have caused this in such short time? The TOB was brand new GM unit. Does the TOB sling grease when new possibly? Maybe clutch fluid?

I think I'm going to have to have McLeod cut the flywheel, PP and floater.
Old 03-23-2016, 08:01 AM
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Anyone?
Old 03-23-2016, 10:24 AM
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What master cylinder are you using with the clutch?
Old 03-23-2016, 12:42 PM
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Factory Master. GM Slave. Both are new.
Old 03-24-2016, 02:41 PM
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This is very interesting to me. I have no knowledge that will be of any assistance to you, but my brother just installed an RXT twin disk, along with a Tick adjustable M/C in his HCI WS6 and although he isn't done with the break in yet, it is buttery smooth. No chatter or noises of any kind.

I was planning on buying an RST over the RXT just because it is cheaper and I'm no where near the power limits of either clutch.

Interested to see what comes of this.
Old 03-24-2016, 04:31 PM
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No doubt caused by slipping the crap out of it.

Whether you as a driver or doing it, or some other issue is causing it.....that's where the heat comes from.
Old 03-24-2016, 04:53 PM
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OP

do you feel any slight vibration for a brief second when you start to push in the clutch?

FWIW when I put in my McLeod Street twin I did. Drove for a few hundred miles and it still did that slight vibe when clutch initially disengaged. I could feel it in the pedal.

Pulled the clutch and it had hot spots but on 1/2 of the FW, floater & PP all at the same point of mating.

Turned out the FW was very slightly not flat. McLeod took .004-.005 off the FW and replaced the floater & discs and took emery cloth to the PP. Clutch looked brand new and I put it back in. Been fine for a year or so now. McLeod did not charge and did the rebuild in 1 hr while I waited as my clutch was still under warranty

"Maybe" your FW is not dead nuts flat as it appears the hot spots favor one part vs all around

but....as mentioned those kind of hot spots generally are sign of to much clutch slippage....
Old 03-24-2016, 05:46 PM
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It didn't ever feel like it was slipping but I tend to agree that slipping will create hotspots. The hotspots are rather uneven on the FW and floater. With the tires in the air, the clutch would spin the tires if I let the pedal out maybe an inch or so, however, with the tires on the ground, the clutch wouldn't grab enough to move the car until the pedal was released nearly at the top. The clutch did not have any bite when slipping. It was like an on/off switch.
Old 03-24-2016, 06:10 PM
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And organic clutch like that should never feel like an on/off switch. It should be factory smooth to engage.
Old 03-24-2016, 06:34 PM
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Was the clutch broken in properly according to the companies specified procedure?

Originally Posted by ******
OP

do you feel any slight vibration for a brief second when you start to push in the clutch?

FWIW when I put in my McLeod Street twin I did. Drove for a few hundred miles and it still did that slight vibe when clutch initially disengaged. I could feel it in the pedal.

Pulled the clutch and it had hot spots but on 1/2 of the FW, floater & PP all at the same point of mating.

Turned out the FW was very slightly not flat. McLeod took .004-.005 off the FW and replaced the floater & discs and took emery cloth to the PP. Clutch looked brand new and I put it back in. Been fine for a year or so now. McLeod did not charge and did the rebuild in 1 hr while I waited as my clutch was still under warranty

"Maybe" your FW is not dead nuts flat as it appears the hot spots favor one part vs all around

but....as mentioned those kind of hot spots generally are sign of to much clutch slippage....
Great point to bring up. If the Flywheel is not perfectly flat, it can cause scorching and irregular wear on one side.
Old 03-24-2016, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Centerforce
Was the clutch broken in properly according to the companies specified procedure?
Yes, exactly as instructed by the manufacturer. I've broken in several clutches through the years. My normal driving style is pretty conservative and this clutch has not seen abuse.
Old 03-31-2016, 01:07 PM
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McLeod has reviewed the clutch assembly. They have indicated that the pressure plate was bent/defective. They will replace the pressure plate and floater under warranty and cut the flywheel. I should have the assembly back next week.

Now I need to determine weather I keep the new McLeod or sell it and buy a different twin. I've been eyeing the Monster LT1-S but havent been able to get anyone on the phone over there.
Old 03-31-2016, 01:08 PM
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Kudos to McLeod for the stand up support and service.
Old 12-28-2018, 03:03 PM
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Default Same problems with my McLeod Twin Disc aluminum flywheel set up

I am having the same exact problem with my McLeod Twin Disc with the aluminum flywheel. I have also had the chattering noise since day one when I installed the new clutch new slave cylinder and new bearing. I have gone well over the thousand mile break in process and I’ve also done all of the suggested inspections by McLeod as far as bleeding the system multiple times checking my fly will slave cylinder and bearing but the chattering noise and vibration has only gotten worse now that I’ve dropped the clutch I am noticing that the fly wheel, clutch plate, and clearly have burn marks and and additional issues only two months after installation. Initially McLeod said that the chatter would dissipate over time but it has only gotten worse and now the clutch chattering has turned into clutch slippage. At first the vibration wasn’t as noticeable but again has only gotten worse and now I’m at the point where when in gear I get high rpm’s but barely any movement which due to my research tells me that I’ve gone from clutch chatter and now clutch slippage. I’m concerned McLeod will try to blame it on driver or installation error but unfortunately I don’t have the vocabulary to debate the issues with these guys. Can someone help me figure out if this is due to a faulty clutch set up or if it’s due to installation error or due to driver error?? Please see attached photos of Initial installation as well as removing the clutch and finding the faulty parts. Any help would be Appreciate it
Originally Posted by Centerforce
Was the clutch broken in properly according to the companies specified procedure?


Great point to bring up. If the Flywheel is not perfectly flat, it can cause scorching and irregular wear on one side.
QUOTE=98cherrySS;19193139]So I have a Mcleod RST with about 1000 street miles on it. I have the trans out and decided to have a look at the clutch. The pressure plate flywheel, and floater disc all have hot spots. The flywheel seems to show most of the hot spots on only one side. I have had a good amount of chatter since the first test drive. McLeod said it would eventually dissapear but it seems to be getting worse.

Can anyone tell me why I am getting hot spots? Do you think the chatter is related?[/QUOTE]



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