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Installed a Tick master on my C5 about 4 years ago, worked great up until about a couple months ago when I started noticing the pedal travel was a bit inconsistent, some days it would start lower to the floor than others. And some days I couldn't get cruise control to work because it wouldn't return up high enough. After bleeding the issue would come back in a few days. Also could never get the cylinder to fill fully. Even if I held the pedal at the top of it's travel (cylinder should fill fully), it didn't seem to suck in any extra fluid from the reservoir and once I let go it'd just drop back down to it's resting position like two inches lower.
Fast forward to a few days ago, pedal was low to the floor again. Tried bleeding through the speed bleeder and couldn't make any progress. Disconnected the master from the slave to try to bleed the master only and I can't get it to gravity bleed. Even if I had someone pump the pedal while I opened/closed the plunger on the quick disconnect line, it would never bleed all the air out. It'd push bit a fluid and a lot of air. Went through this like 20-30 times, never getting a stiff pedal. Fluid I collected from the line had little black particles in it too.
I pulled the dust boot that goes around the piston and there's a drop or two of brake fluid.
So I'm thinking a seal has gone bad in the master cylinder? I plan to call Tick on Monday and see what they say. Hopefully they can get me a new cylinder asap.
Tick uses a Tilton. I know Tilton sells rebuild kits. But Tick also is supposed to have a lifetime warranty so I'd rather go through them if possible than taking it apart.
If you still have your invoice, return it to tick for a replacement. You may have to leave a deposit if you don't send yours in right away and they'll credit back once they receive your original one. I just went through this. Was easy process they didn't give me a hard time. Mine was also leaking from the boot.
Pulled it out from the car today to send to Tick. I have to send mine in and I guess they just rebuild them from what it sounded like on the phone. Bit unfortunate as I wanted to use the car this weekend.
Tried to bench bleed it out of the car, seems to be an issue with the fluid feed. Fluid gets into it, but not completely. Only maybe 50% of the total fluid capacity of the cylinder would fill and it would hold vacuum when I released the plunger and closed the output line and wouldn't suck in any additional fluid from the reservoir. As soon as you open the output line again you can hear a whoosh as air runs back into the line. Tried holding it in all different positions thinking it might be a weird pocket of air but no luck. So I'll let Tick deal with it I guess.
I just went through the same thing, I could still drive it but there was a noticeable difference of the pedal not returning. I ordered a Tilton rebuild kit because I didn't want to pay for a rental while waiting for Tick to rebuild it under warranty as this is my daily driver.
Looks like removing the clutch pedal spring might not be a good idea.
Master Cylinder, Rebuild Kit, .875 in. Bore, Tilton, 75-875RK
Interesting timing, I just came inside from bleeding mine. I've been experiencing trouble getting into reverse and it feels mushy rather than smooth/solid when new. Recently reinstalled the clutch return spring to get the last 1/2" of return. I've had mine about 4 years.
Is it possible to remove the boot and get snap ring pliers in there while installed?
Last edited by therealcreeper; 10-12-2016 at 06:31 PM.
Just curious - how old was yours? Mine only lasted 3.5 years with DD usage. Bit unfortunate considering the premium price over a stock unit.
Three years and five months, I replaced the original master cylinder after installing a Monster clutch set up. The original master was thirteen years old, still good but I needed a little more. This is my daily driver, I'm the original owner, same usage and miles.
I sent a email to Tilton asking what they thought happened to the spring, here's the response:
"It looks like high cycle fatigue that causes the coils of the spring to break. We have only seen this happen on our high cycle test bench we have in our testing lab."
Originally Posted by therealcreeper
Interesting timing, I just came inside from bleeding mine. I've been experiencing trouble getting into reverse and it feels mushy rather than smooth/solid when new. Recently reinstalled the clutch return spring to get the last 1/2" of return. I've had mine about 4 years.
Is it possible to remove the boot and get snap ring pliers in there while installed?
I thought of doing that, I don't think it would be worth the effort, the rubber boot is trapped on the master by the Tick adapter and the piston doesn't come out easily, maybe a strong magnet will work, but you would never get the boot back on.
I removed the whole assembly. Here's some tips:
Remove the Heim joint and turn buckle from the master. Use one of those big heavy duty tie wraps from a Lowes or Home Depot, put it around the wire harness and the rear line of the brake master cylinder to pull up the harness for more access on removal and installation. Tilton rebuild kits run around $25.00, you can tap the master on a rag on the floor to get the piston out, if that doesn't work remove the hose and use a coat hanger to push it out.
Interesting timing, I just came inside from bleeding mine. I've been experiencing trouble getting into reverse and it feels mushy rather than smooth/solid when new. Recently reinstalled the clutch return spring to get the last 1/2" of return. I've had mine about 4 years.
Is it possible to remove the boot and get snap ring pliers in there while installed?
On a C5 I think it is. Probably not on an F-Body for reasons mentioned.
Originally Posted by 2000 WS6 Formula
Three years and five months, I replaced the original master cylinder after installing a Monster clutch set up. The original master was thirteen years old, still good but I needed a little more. This is my daily driver, I'm the original owner, same usage and miles.
I sent a email to Tilton asking what they thought happened to the spring, here's the response:
"It looks like high cycle fatigue that causes the coils of the spring to break. We have only seen this happen on our high cycle test bench we have in our testing lab."
High cycle fatigue - meaning this is expected with usage? I might toss my return spring back on and see what happens.
09-24-2016, 08:49 PM
broken tick master? 
