normal clutch brake in?
#1
normal clutch brake in?
so i had a monster level2 put in the v last week, i have put 100-150miles on it so far and it seems pretty bad *** i love the way it engages but i have noticed its a little more difficult to get into first and reverse. is this normal with a new clutch?
it bites on the top half of the pedal travel so im thinking the hydraulics are good. y only other though was the trans fluid it self as the temp dropped into the 40s-50s at the same time and im running scheaffers all trans that is rated for that transmission but it is a full synthetic.
it bites on the top half of the pedal travel so im thinking the hydraulics are good. y only other though was the trans fluid it self as the temp dropped into the 40s-50s at the same time and im running scheaffers all trans that is rated for that transmission but it is a full synthetic.
#2
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
I dont really know if there is any real right/wrong to brake in a clutch,I've always just drove the car of a few hundred miles then kick it in the ***. If your have problems getting it into first/reverse it might need to be bled. The correct fluid is important to mkke sure the gears stop rotating
#3
vroom..
jack up rear of car, put in first with clutch pedal all the way down with engine runing. Do the rear tires move forward?
if yes you have a disengagement issue. Bleeding ora shim is needed.
if wheels don't turn might want to consider a different tranny fluid if 1st & reverse are notchy. Redline D4
jack up rear of car, put in first with clutch pedal all the way down with engine runing. Do the rear tires move forward?
if yes you have a disengagement issue. Bleeding ora shim is needed.
if wheels don't turn might want to consider a different tranny fluid if 1st & reverse are notchy. Redline D4
#4
Originally Posted by ******
vroom..
jack up rear of car, put in first with clutch pedal all the way down with engine runing. Do the rear tires move forward?
if yes you have a disengagement issue. Bleeding ora shim is needed.
if wheels don't turn might want to consider a different tranny fluid if 1st & reverse are notchy. Redline D4
jack up rear of car, put in first with clutch pedal all the way down with engine runing. Do the rear tires move forward?
if yes you have a disengagement issue. Bleeding ora shim is needed.
if wheels don't turn might want to consider a different tranny fluid if 1st & reverse are notchy. Redline D4
So I had the back up re adjusting my exhaust and got to try this one out. With the clutch at the floor when you go to put it in first the rear tire moves a few inches(it just starts to move, it will not continue to move ) when you just begin to put pressure on first, then once you engage the gear it stops.
Half way through the clutch brake in per monsters 500 miles and it's been a 50/50 city highway driving. 90% of the chatter is gone on takeoff and the new clutch smell is gone. I do have chatter in reverse but if you keep the rpms up a bit it will not do it.
Gear shifting is easier once fully warmed up but first and reverse is still a bit notchy. Same weather motor is running or not.
Last edited by vroom_vroom; 12-22-2016 at 10:44 AM.
#7
Cool. I will try giving the clutch a good bleed before i waist your time on the phone. I also want to double check everything on my shifter(remote for the v) and make sure everything is still tight but the fluid made a significant improvement. It still did this to some degree before the clutch and even after the trans mounts still so I'm more inclined to believe it's internal or another well documented idiosyncrasy of the t56 as I'm definitely not the first one with the issue.