Skeet Skeet

So I just got my tick rebuilt stage 2 t56 back and am trying to install my monster stage 2 clutch before putting the tranny back in. Well my issue is the pilot bearing, it's just not budging at all. I broke 2 pullers that were rented today from the auto parts store and even tried the bread method as seen on YouTube. Does anyone have any other ideas/tricks to try. Im completely out of ideas and a friend is saying the last option is to cut out the bearing with a saw which scares the hell out of me. He says that he has done it but I don't want to cut on it unless absolutely necessary.

BALLSS

I have used the "blind hole puller" from Autozone several times. plug & play

is this what you tried?

#27128

Skeet Skeet

Nope, they rented me a specific pilot bearing puller with 2 arms that go inside with crappy little hooks on the end. Almost like a harmonic balancer puller but not nearly as large. The hooks don't seem to be catching the bearing at all. I rented these from advance auto but will have to try the one you showed from autozone. How exactly does it work?

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

I cut mine! Little air saw/ carbid bit and took my time. Then when had a decent cut I used a chisel and couple whacks with a hammer and it split and I removed it. It's not scary at all just take your time.

BALLSS

The tool s a slide hammer with 4 screw on tips. You use the largest tip that fits inside the pilot bearing.

The tips have a threaded sleeve that opens up the ends. The ends have a lip on them that grabs the pilot from "behind"

IDK what kind of car you have but on my LT1 IIRC I used the second smallest tip which "just" fits inside the pilot with the tips closed. Then you just screw the sleeve until the tip spreads as far as it can then screw in the slide hammer part on the tip. A few good pulls and its off. Might want to not go ape shiat on the 1st pull and just see if the pilot does move some with a decent bang of the slide hammer. Then give it a few more slides if you have to

You will see how it works when you get your hands on it. Its one of those loan a tool deals where you buy it and return it for a full refund

If you have a LSx car I believe there is a freeze plug right behind the pilot so don't do the wet bread or grease deal as you can push that freeze plug in.....and then you are f'ed.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I've used a similar approach. Just be careful, there is a freeze plug in the back of the crank. I knocked it out of the crank when I did this the first time. Be careful not to pound clear through the bearing and into the plug. I ordered a new one and a spare one for the toolbox. So far I've never needed the spare (that's the best part of having a spare, you never seem to need it).

OTC is a tool manufacturer that makes a pretty good puller like you rented, it might get the job done (I'll know soon, I have a new clutch to go in my 2002 and the OTC tool is laying in the garage with the new parts. I just haven't had time to deal with it yet.

Skeet Skeet

So I do have an lsx car and tried the bread and tool method with no luck. I did know know about the freeze plug behind the pilot bearing so I'm praying I didn't screw it up. Only time will telling guess. Thanks for all the advise and I'm going to try that otc tool and if that doesn't work I'll just trying cutting it and then use the chisel. Thank you again for all the help and ideas.

BALLSS

The tool I posted has 4 different ends for different size pilot bearings/bushings. One should fit the LSx one.

Google "how to remove pilot bearing from LSx.." and 1st video that came up shows a homemade way essentially using a tool that "hooks" behind the bearing. The following video shows a guy who made a slide hammer with a cut down bolt head and vice grips

just rent the autozone tool, it will be out in seconds

Chris Paveglio

iTrader: (2)

I had the exact same problem last year. Use the tool ****** posted and it worked, even after I munged up the inner race badly with the other tools. Also sprayed some wd40 in there and let it soak a couple days.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ns-needed.html

cooperhw

I have always had good luck with grease. I try and get an old snout off an old transmission so it is exactly the size of the bearing hole. I cut it off about 6 inches back so you have a good handle. fill the bearing hole packed full of wheel bearing grease, then put it up to the grease and whack the snot out of it with a 2lb hammer. Usually comes out with a whack or two. Not sure about how it would effect the plug underneath but I like to always change them whenever I have a tranny out. Too much effort to do it later on.

flyboy129

DANG IT PEOPLE! DO NOT USE GREASE, OR BREAD, OR ANY OTHER HYDRAULIC METHOD OF REMOVING THE PILOT BEARING!!!!

The crank plug will EASILY push inside the crank case LONG before the pilot bearing would ever dream of budging. Some dumb*** already almost f'ed up my replacement before I got it. The plug was barely hanging on. Had it fell into the rotating assembly, the low mileage LS1 would have been toast!

Please quit giving the hydraulic method advice concerning LS engines!

If you choose to follow this advice, you are on your own.

Rant over. Carry on.

flyboy129

Measure inside the crank once you properly remove the old bearing.
Here is my post where I replaced mine: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-oil-plug.html

Here is the thread when I was inquiring about depth of plug (Around 1 1/4" from clutch edge of crankshaft) http://https://ls1tech.com/forums/ge...nk-please.html

BALLSS

FWIW I have rented the tool at AZ a few times to replace pilot bearings. Not finding it now when I search AZ "loan-a-tool" section on the web but they may still have them.

Here is another one from Harbor Freight that is the similar but has different size tips. IDK if one will fit a LSx pilot bearing so you would need to check what tips come with it for size. The video at least shows how they work


the OEM one comes up several places to buy on Google search. "blind hole puller # 27128"

Like anything else when working on cars..the RIGHT tool always makes the job easier

...and to add DO NOT EVER TRY REMOVING IT WITH GREASE OR WET BREAD on a LSx motor. Pushing in the crank plug inside the motor will add greatly to your repair time

LT1, older gens SBC and other motors that don't have some sort of pressed plug right behind the pilot bearing that method has worked.

flyboy129

I actually bought the loan a tool piece from Autozone. The loaner was out, I just ordered a new one for $15. Brand new. No wear. Worked like a charm. http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools...ent/230517_0_0

Skeet Skeet

So I broke down and bought the Harbor Freight slap puller as posted above and it worked amazing. Pulled the bearing in less than 2 minutes worth of work. Thanks again for all of the help guys.

BALLSS

you are not alone with now having a purpose specific tool that you may not use often....but when you do need it worth every penny

I have several tools like that now. If I could not acquire the Autozone blind hole puller easily when I have needed it I would, like you, buy the HF one. Just bought a puller to get a harmonic balancer off my Ford as my Kent Moore LT1 specific puller would not "talk" to the ford hub/damper. With the January 1-2 HF sale and a 25% discount coupon my tool was $11.23. It made the job simple and took just moments to get the hub off the Ford. The tool now sits in the cabinet with several other rarely used specific tools I have acquired over the years.

Skeet Skeet

That's exactly how I felt about it. I'll spend the money now and didn't care how much it cost as long as I could get the job done. I have multiple friends who will be able to use it now as well so it was definitely worth spending the money.

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

Just had to remove a transmission/clutch myself as after installing the pilot bearing I thought it looked a little dark in the middle of the crankshaft..... luckily took it apart before firing it up or the clutch would've been covered in oil and toast. It's crazy but you can see with a flashlight the connecting rods peering inside..... $4 part... massive headache. LS7 replacement crank somehow didn't have the freeze plug in the back..... I will always check this from now on. I used blue loctite upon install.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

Good find and info!