Mappinsj

People keep bashing and saying the ls7 clutch "hurt" their trans. How can a heavy clutch combo hurt a trans? I want to hear some input on why.

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

several reasons , as far as "hurting" as in damaging the transmission I will leave that to others as I have seen conflicting posts as to whether that is possible.

why they get bashed:

much heavier than stock

self adjusting pressure plate

needs flexplate swapped to one compatible with ls7 clutch

many many issues with blocking you out of shifts over 5000 rpm at WOT , this is why I hate mine but it was there when I got the car and with 255,000 miles on the car its there until I have a reason to tear into it-has a few synchro issues at this point so the day is coming soon when I get to heave it in the trash can and crack a beer lol.

It does drive well when not driving aggressively , lasts well , feels stock etc and it is cheap to buy I think this is why so many people buy it , cheap , was used in a factory 500hp application unfortunately f bodies do not get corvette hydraulic systems so it is a poor choice.

y2keglide

iTrader: (2)

I've read glowing reviews in other threads.
I just bought a complete LS7 clutch kit for mine since I'm getting a bunch more power with the Spring build coming up.
I opted for the RAM 19.5lb flywheel with an ARP bolt kit (flywheel and pressure plate bolts). The weight saved by the lighter flywheel should offset the heavier clutch weight.

y2keglide

iTrader: (2)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-concerns.html

Mappinsj

What annoys me is I see 10 glowing ls7 clutch reviews to every 1 bad one.

I am putting an ls7 full kit into my car with the heavy *** fly wheel unfortunately.
But I am also putting in a tick master cylinder and I will expect great WOT shifts.

My trans is a stage 2 w carbon syncros rated at 600 wtw

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

do a search on ls7 clutch in this section of this forum and you will see far more negative than positive.

Seen the cycle many times over the years , it will be different for me because everywhere else on the internet I see sunshine and roses on the ls7 clutch , the guys in the manual section on ls1 tech must all have a hair across their asses.....or maybe they have actual experience hmmmmm.....

Mappinsj

idk, I was gonna put it in today and couldn't get fly wheel bolts. So next weekend I will see how my ls7 kit fairs.

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

I think most start out ok its as they get some miles on them between the self adjusting and the black death the disc emits that ends up in your fluid , mine shifts better if I flush my fluid using the ranger method a couple times a week.

y2keglide

iTrader: (2)

I don't see an option to search within a specific forum section here, I'd like to see what's there though.
I have to wonder how many with complaints are from those doing a lot of drag racing vs those street driving mostly.
I don't plan to take my car to the drag strip and it will see very little city driving given where I live way out here in the rural hills of SW WA.
I'll be doing more canyon carving type driving here locally and a few Summer road trips. No daily driving at all, strictly a weekend fun car.
I expect it must be better than the stock LS1 clutch and with the aluminum flywheel should weigh about the same.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I've always seen this - that the clutch fluid needs to be flushed a lot on a LS7 clutch. But how come you never need to flush the brake fluid? Certainly not weekly anyway. Same stuff on both systems...

Regarding pairing the LS7 clutch with light flywheel, that helps with MOI on the motor, but NOT the synchros. Synchros only in use while shifting, which is with pedal in. Only load on the synchros would be the heavy *** disc - unless you aren't fully releasing (hello shift lock out). I'd personally rather have a heavy flywheel and very light disc load on the input shaft.

Check that. I'd rather have both light. But if I could only have one, it'd be the friction discs lighter first.

scotty2000ss

iTrader: (2)

That clutch is NOT an upgrade. I hated that POS. I don't understand why people are modding their car with quality parts and then throw a weak link into the mix. I felt my old car rev slower lol.

Mappinsj

LOL exactly. There is no load from the heavy fly wheel it would be from the disk. Which is a single disk.

lazerlemonta

LS7 Clutch works great if your wanting to hold your car back lol It modulates at different pedal positions and has a lame feel at the track when slipping it to get that good 60'. Have fun trashing 2nd at 6500 rpm+ shifts when you pull quick gears. If you like to have 1 second shifts you will do fine. There is something to be said about hanging damn near 60 pounds on the end of your crank and being happy about it........ your not looking for performance your just driving a car (clutch is better suited for a truck) ENJOY

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Funny you say that. When I was still learning this stuff, I drove a friend's car with the LS7 clutch, and he was super happy with it. But It felt like a truck engine to me. You wouldn't think that the weight makes that big a difference, but it does.

big hammer

Pros: affordable, holds good power and stock driveability

Cons: heavy as hell, robs some acceleration, shifts like **** at high rpm and risks transmission damage if you're a heavy handed shifter

JD_AMG

This always confused the hell out of me.
I have an LS7 clutch/lightweight ram flywheel package that I installed after the stock LS6 clutch took a dump on me - I wanted stock like drive ability with being able to hold more power, don't really care about .02 seconds difference driving in a straight line for 11 seconds. The car drives the same as it did with the stock LS6 clutch but revs a little quicker. I have never had any shifting issues or anything like that, just feels like a stock clutch. I have a tick adjustable MC as well which was installed back when I had the stock clutch. Im making 433rwhp/420ftbs now and still no difference or any issues.
Now I can certainly see how people could want something lighter but I really don't see any actual real issues with this thing for an OEM clutch replacement, which is exactly what it is.

y2keglide

iTrader: (2)

Glad to hear that, exactly what I was hoping for and I got the RAM flywheel with my kit as well. Seriously thinking about the Tick MC too as well as an MGW shifter to round out the package. I building more of a sports car than a straight line car so I agree on the "don't really care about .02 seconds difference" shifting.

Mappinsj

I got the heavy iron ls7 fly wheel. Pretty sure that is where most of the complaint lies.

I would 100% go MGW and tick master y2ke

y2keglide

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I've read nothing but good about both.

Mappinsj

I have personally used an MGW. Best feeling from a transmission you can have. I have a B&M ripper right now.