M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 Conversion info requested
09-30-2004, 09:53 AM
#21
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so ive heard something about the t56 being stronger in the lt1's...can they be used on an ls1?
what year t56 is the best.. what changes were made in them through the years???
im about to do a conversion when ever i find someone willing to trade or when i eventually part it all up...
what year t56 is the best.. what changes were made in them through the years???
im about to do a conversion when ever i find someone willing to trade or when i eventually part it all up...
09-30-2004, 11:04 AM
#22
Originally Posted by DERTY
I need info for a M6 to 4L60E/4L80E and vice versa.
Exactly what I would be interested in seeing. Debating on selling my '99 Z28 M6 to get an A4 car to bracket race, but I love my '99 and would rather just change the tranny.
10-01-2004, 12:50 PM
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Ok, i've got a question for you guys. I completed the A4 to M6 swap about 2 weeks ago and everything went great. Everything except the reverse lockout works like a charm. My question is, what wires do i splice into, and where are they located. I'm assuming there in the big cluster that plugs into the passanger side of the automatic transmission. Does anyone know for sure?
Last edited by therabidlama; 10-01-2004 at 02:06 PM.
10-05-2004, 03:36 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by therabidlama
Ok, i've got a question for you guys. I completed the A4 to M6 swap about 2 weeks ago and everything went great. Everything except the reverse lockout works like a charm. My question is, what wires do i splice into, and where are they located. I'm assuming there in the big cluster that plugs into the passanger side of the automatic transmission. Does anyone know for sure?
10-06-2004, 08:01 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by C_B64
I'm glad you all made this thread, because Im going to be doing a A-4 to M-6 swap around the first of the year, just gotta start getting the stuff, lol
10-11-2004, 06:17 PM
#28
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does anyone have a list of the nuts and bolts needed for the A4 to M6 swap? I have my t-56 tranny and everything, but i didnt get any bolts from the previous owner. Or am i able to use a lot of the bolts used by the A4?
and this is for a 2000 TA
and this is for a 2000 TA
10-12-2004, 01:00 PM
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You will need Flywheel bolts(5 or 6), clutch bolts, and Tranny-to-bellhousing bolts(8). You can reuse the bellhousing bolts for your sixspeed bellhousing. Don't buy the bolts from gm. They will rip you a new one. I ended up going to a local building supply store and getting the correct bolts for everything but the clutch. They were the right strength, length, and pinch. It will greatly help if you can grab a stock bolt from someone when looking for yours.
10-12-2004, 02:54 PM
#30
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so what is the reason u cant use a lt1 t56 in an ls1 car??
edit: search button does wonders dont it..... reason why this doesnt work is input shaft length and clutch slave cyl designs are not interchangeable
edit: search button does wonders dont it..... reason why this doesnt work is input shaft length and clutch slave cyl designs are not interchangeable
Last edited by nitrousfed; 10-14-2004 at 08:45 AM.
10-14-2004, 10:36 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by therabidlama
You will need Flywheel bolts(5 or 6), clutch bolts, and Tranny-to-bellhousing bolts(8). You can reuse the bellhousing bolts for your sixspeed bellhousing. Don't buy the bolts from gm. They will rip you a new one. I ended up going to a local building supply store and getting the correct bolts for everything but the clutch. They were the right strength, length, and pinch. It will greatly help if you can grab a stock bolt from someone when looking for yours.
10-16-2004, 01:12 AM
#33
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Originally Posted by therabidlama
The bolts to hold the pressure plate to the flywheel.
10-16-2004, 07:10 PM
#34
I just finished an Auto to M6 swap tonight. I did the whole thing myself in my gargage. The differnce between what I did and what dragon Z was talking about is that I bought a m6 wiring harness.
Those thinking about doing an M6 swap WARNING....WARNING ......WARNING. DO NOT BUY A 99+ YEAR WAIRING HARNESS FOR A 98 AND VISE VERSA. YOU WILL FRY YOUR PCM. I found out the hard way. 99+years are all the same 98 is the only year that was different. Everything is very simple. Hardest part is cutting hole for the shifter and the master cylinder, otherwise very simple.
Wiring-----------If you just connect the Dark Green wire with the purple wire with the stripe you will not have to have the cluch depressed to start the car. No big deal (In My Own Opinion.
Those thinking about doing an M6 swap WARNING....WARNING ......WARNING. DO NOT BUY A 99+ YEAR WAIRING HARNESS FOR A 98 AND VISE VERSA. YOU WILL FRY YOUR PCM. I found out the hard way. 99+years are all the same 98 is the only year that was different. Everything is very simple. Hardest part is cutting hole for the shifter and the master cylinder, otherwise very simple.
Wiring-----------If you just connect the Dark Green wire with the purple wire with the stripe you will not have to have the cluch depressed to start the car. No big deal (In My Own Opinion.
Last edited by sevanseriesta; 10-16-2004 at 07:30 PM.
10-16-2004, 10:15 PM
#35
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why does the clutch have to be depressed in order to start the car?...wouldnt it start up if its in Neutral (in between gears) already?
i have a remote start on my car thats why i ask
i have a remote start on my car thats why i ask
10-17-2004, 01:25 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by 02WS6Bird
why does the clutch have to be depressed in order to start the car?...wouldnt it start up if its in Neutral (in between gears) already?
i have a remote start on my car thats why i ask
i have a remote start on my car thats why i ask
10-17-2004, 01:46 PM
#38
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You can do like described above by connecting the two wire together. Make darn sure you don't accidently leave it in gear though or your car will drive off on it's own or through your house with using that remote starter...
Dan
Dan
10-26-2004, 07:58 PM
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do you need to have the plugs for the tranny to tap into the auto harness 
Originally Posted by dragonZ28
OK. Here is a parts list needed for swapping out a 4L60E for a T56 in an LS1 Fbody:
master + slave cylinders (prefer 01 up) (also, master cylinder u-bolt and nuts)
new pedal assembly with clips for clutch rod and brake rod
new console tray with shift boot, and lower shift boot
pilot bearing, bellhousing, T56, crossmember, T56 torque arm mount and bolts, shifter
pressure plate, flywheel, clutch, and all related bolts and clutch tool
You will need to have your PCM flashed to a 6spd PCM, but you do not need a new PCM
THE SAME DRIVESHAFT CAN BE USED
REWIRING instructions: (disconnect battery)
connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires directly together for the hatch release to work.
connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch on the manual pedal assembly so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start. Polarization does matter here. I forget which wire goes to each connector, but trial and error will solve this in 2 seconds. (do it right, use solder and heat shrink tubing).
connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending. Polarization does not matter. (again, use solder and heat shrink when you add wire to these).
Also, the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) will need to be cut, and elongated by soldering on about 6 inches of extra wire to each wire going into the connector. This VSS will plug directly into the VSS port on the drivers side of the T56 by the shifter.
WATCH THE FOLLOWING FUSES: starter, gauges, Turn/BU lights.
Troublesome parts:
The hardest part is mounting the master cylinder. Pulling the auto is no big deal. You will need a long extension or two, and a swivel joint to get this thing out though.
The steering column will need to come out, but it is pretty simple. 6 bolts hold it in. 1 is under the hood at the joint in the column, 3 are on the firewall behind the pedals, and two are holding it to the underside of the dash. Afetr these are removed and all electrical connectors are unplugged, wiggle it out of there. It should be free of any connections at this point, except the safety device on the top of the column. Follow the device that hooked to your auto shifter up to your column. Take this off. I believe it has 2 screws holding it in place. This locks the ignition until the car is in park. Since you no longer have "park", this thing needs to go.
Everything else can be found in the LT1 instructions above. They are almost exactly the same, except the wiring instructions. If you have any questions, send me a PM.
This whole conversion costed me only $2300. This can be done in a garage with jackstands and intelligence. Don't be stupid and attempt heavy lifting or dropping without help by your side.
master + slave cylinders (prefer 01 up) (also, master cylinder u-bolt and nuts)
new pedal assembly with clips for clutch rod and brake rod
new console tray with shift boot, and lower shift boot
pilot bearing, bellhousing, T56, crossmember, T56 torque arm mount and bolts, shifter
pressure plate, flywheel, clutch, and all related bolts and clutch tool
You will need to have your PCM flashed to a 6spd PCM, but you do not need a new PCM
THE SAME DRIVESHAFT CAN BE USED
REWIRING instructions: (disconnect battery)
connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires directly together for the hatch release to work.
connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch on the manual pedal assembly so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start. Polarization does matter here. I forget which wire goes to each connector, but trial and error will solve this in 2 seconds. (do it right, use solder and heat shrink tubing).
connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending. Polarization does not matter. (again, use solder and heat shrink when you add wire to these).
Also, the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) will need to be cut, and elongated by soldering on about 6 inches of extra wire to each wire going into the connector. This VSS will plug directly into the VSS port on the drivers side of the T56 by the shifter.
WATCH THE FOLLOWING FUSES: starter, gauges, Turn/BU lights.
Troublesome parts:
The hardest part is mounting the master cylinder. Pulling the auto is no big deal. You will need a long extension or two, and a swivel joint to get this thing out though.
The steering column will need to come out, but it is pretty simple. 6 bolts hold it in. 1 is under the hood at the joint in the column, 3 are on the firewall behind the pedals, and two are holding it to the underside of the dash. Afetr these are removed and all electrical connectors are unplugged, wiggle it out of there. It should be free of any connections at this point, except the safety device on the top of the column. Follow the device that hooked to your auto shifter up to your column. Take this off. I believe it has 2 screws holding it in place. This locks the ignition until the car is in park. Since you no longer have "park", this thing needs to go.
Everything else can be found in the LT1 instructions above. They are almost exactly the same, except the wiring instructions. If you have any questions, send me a PM.
This whole conversion costed me only $2300. This can be done in a garage with jackstands and intelligence. Don't be stupid and attempt heavy lifting or dropping without help by your side.