Any flywheel pro's? (mcleod billet) - LS1TECH

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Any flywheel pro's? (mcleod billet)

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Old 05-18-2005, 07:45 PM   #1
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Default Any flywheel pro's? (mcleod billet)

I have a mcleod billet flywheel and have recently had it grinded .030. I was told my Mcleod that is about the max I would want to grind and could check to see if it is still usable by putting a PP bolt in and measuring the distance from the face of the Fly to the bottom shoulder of the bolt. (.270). Then I measured the thickness of the PP where the bolts go through (.275). From what Mcleod told me this is not good and I would need to drill the PP to make the shoulder of the bolt fit lower onto the PP. Does this make sense? To me it seems this would make the situation worse............actually I can pretty much garuntee it would. So basically I am thinking of two options...
1) I use a .010 washer between the shoulder on the PP bolts and the PP.
2) Use the second set of bolts holes on the fly.
The problem I forsee using the first one is that the sprung hub of the disk may be too close to the flyweel bolts.
The second option has many forseeable problems along with the one metioned for situation 1. also the second set of bolt holes on the flywheel are not tapped at the top and go all the way through to the bottom (unlike the ones I belive I am supposed to use. This might cause problems for balance or something.

Anyone have any advice?
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Old 05-23-2005, 10:36 PM   #2
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I am rebuilding the trans so I have plenty of time to get this answered
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Old 05-25-2005, 03:19 PM   #3
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I've read this about 5 times and I'm not sure I exactly understand what McL is telling you, but let me make a stab. They may be concerned with the counterbore in the flywheel that accepts the shank of the clutch bolt. If this shoulder were to bottom out in the hole before the cover was tight, the clutch might not draw down completely.

The other holes in the fw are probably for a standard 3/8 clutch bolt, and these typically have a .250" drive shank at the top of the bolt which the pressure plate drives against. Again, this shank has to fit in the hole recess, that is probably why it looks like the threads don't come all the way up.

The bigger issue here in my mind is the moving of the clutch .030 away from the release bearing. You may have to use a bearing shim to make up for this so you get complete clutch release.

Hope this helps somewhat.

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