Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

I have been searching and am continuing to do so. I just got done with swap from A4 to M6, and I'm SO ANXIOUS to drive my car. However, the clutch pedal is stuck to floor. Master cylinder hydraulic is all the way in. I would literally have to really pull hard on clutch pedal to get it up even then might not come up. I tried bleeding clutch like this:

Close master cylinder reservoir cap, pump clutch pedal as many times as I could then had wife hold clutch pedal down, open bleeder (Copper color) valve on slave, close bleeder valve, have wife pump about 10 times, open bleeder valve for 1 second, close. Check reservoir. The fluid in reservoir went down about 1/8th inch by this method, but didn't seem like I was getting anywhere, so I just opened up bleeder valve, about 2 turns on slave, and left it alone for night. PLEASE HELP so I can go in tomorrow and get my baby running.

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

bleed it the same way you'd bleed brakes.

person A: press & hold, yells "HOLDING"
person B: open bleeder screw
car: pedal goes to floor
person A: yells "FLOOR"
person B: closes bleeder screw and yells "RELEASE"
person A: releases pedal slowly
person A or B: checks master cylinder for enough fluid

repeat until its good

GETSOMZ28

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you still have some air trapped in the master. Get a mityvac and do the reverse bleeding method at 20-25 psi (mine will only hold 22.5psi before the hose start to collapse).

When doing the slave, open the bleeder first, then press on the clutch and hold it, close the bleeder, pump the pedal about 20 times, open bleeder, press clutch and hold, etc. Do this 4-5 times after the master is fully bled.

Or,

Look for the JMD method. Basically, get a 90 degree spart plug boot to put on one end of the quick disconnect (in the open position) and stick some hose in the boot on one end and the other going to the clutch reservoir. This creates a closed loop system. All you need to do is pump the clutch till all the bubbles are gone.

I hope you have all new hydraulics, since I had problems with the used ones I originally bought. So far no problems after 100 miles with a new slave and ram adj master.

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

slave is new master is used I HOPE this is a good master. I DO NOT feel like replacing the master. But let me tell you this, the master cylinder thing has VERY LITTLE travel. Meaning if I push in on it, it only goes in about 1/8th inch or so. VERY LITTLE movement. Should I pull up REAL hard on it or what do I do? Master cylinder is just a tube thing so I don't really understand how it could possibly be bad.

GETSOMZ28

iTrader: (1)

Something doesnt sound right with the master. If the master is hooked up to the slave, it should have the full range of travel. If it doesnt work out, I would highly recommend the ram adj master from New Era Performance. Give Mike a call (585) 865-1832 he should be able to help you out. You problem sounds out of my skill level.

Good luck!!!

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

ok everyone looks like what I was doing, there was a rubber piece inside the master cylinder reservoir. Some kind of plug??? Kept the fluid from going down wher eit was supposed to. So, what I then did was:

pump clutch 20 times, hold down
open bleeder screw on slave
close bleeder screw
pump clutch a bunch more times
repeat

I don't know how long to do this for, but the pedal feels SOMEWHAT firm now. I then tried pushing in clutch, starting car, and it won't go into gear. Engine started bogging a little. I did NOT install a shim. This is a used flywheel, used Spec III clutch. New Slave from what I've been told. Did I get a bad master cylinder? Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

I had the same problem with the traditional bleed method. I ended up using a mityvac to fix it and it worked fine after that. Let me know if you want an explanation.

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

YES PLEASE I bought a mityvac, but didn't even BEGIN to use it.

FWIW, I have a pro 5.0 shifter. I put Dot 3 brake fluid in, white bottle blue lable. Dunno about name brand.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

First, i forgot to ask, do you have an old slave cylinder that you can take apart?

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

No, not unless I drop transmission again

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

Well there's still lots of stuff you can try before dropping the transmission. This way worked best for me with the transmission out, but it will still work with the tranny in. The hard part would be getting the hose on the bleeder valve.

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

I can get the hose on the bleeder valve EASY but what are you doing with mityvac there???? So your saying to just crack the bleeder valve open, leave it open and do what? Can you tell me in DUMMY TERMS what to do with that please? THANKS SO MUCH

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

Crack the bleeder valve open, hook everything up as shown, pump mityvac until you pull fluid all the way from the bottle up out the reservoir tube. It will pull some extra air in at first but it will all end up at the top. When you've pulled the fluid as high as you can, release the vacuum, pull the tube off the bleeder valve and tighten it.

Also it will help to get the brake fluid bottle as high as possible because you can only pull a column of fluid a certain height with that much vacuum.

Edit: in dummy terms: suck the fluid out of the bottle into your hydraulics.

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

Just wanna make sure I have this right, slave/throwout bearing is one unit right? Silver w/ black plastic and a big spring right?

Mityvac: Hook GOOD bottle brake fluid to bleeder valve, so that you suck fluid INTO bleeder valve? THEN other end just sits in reservoir cup? Does that sound right to you? How does a tube just sitting in reservoir create vacuum? Also, what about releaseing the vacuum? So your saying to take mity vac off THEN tighten bleeder valve, THEN retighten bleeder valve then pump clutch a few times?

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

Yes, you're sucking fluid into the valve and up out the reservoir. The tube doesn't create vacuum, you have to squeeze the mityvac to do that. You can release the vacuum with the little lever on the mityvac. You have to do that before taking the tube of the bleeder cause otherwise the vacuum would suck air in. So yes you have it right.

redmist

I had zero problems bleeding the clutch. I have an access hole in the trans tunnel. I open the bleeder and just pushed gently on the clutch pedal about ten times and it's perfect. I'm running a wilwood master.
Sounds like you are not getting and bleed back nto the master. Either the master is screwy or the pressure plate is not pushing the slave back.

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

red, so you leave bleeder valve open and keep pumping clutch pedal? Doesn't that draw more air into the system when clutch pedal goes up?

yekta

iTrader: (8)

this is bad man, im experiencing the same .... up problem! Is it normal that clutch stays inside doens't pull itself back

did u fix ur problem?