Flywheel, to buy or to resurface
07-06-2005, 01:07 PM
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Flywheel, to buy or to resurface <background>
I'm having some issues with my clutch, I highly believe it's one of the cylinders, but the clutch is slipping a bit and it's getting worse. The "let out point" is getting really far up (toward the dash), but I don't see that the fluid is low. I keep smelling burnt clutch and I'm afraid I'll be replacing it soon.
I'm taking it into the Chevy house (still under warrantee) soon to find out exactly.
</background>
None the less, I'm looking around at a new clutch and I really like the SPEC stage II or III. The don't seem to be much in price difference, so I might throw in the extra couple of bucks and get a little bigger one. (unless I'm stupid and shouldn't put get the stage III ***no mods right now ***)
What I'm wondering is while I'm in there, do I have to resurface or replace the flywheel? Or is it one of those "do it while you can" things? If it's better to get a new one, what do ya'll suggest? I'll have to save up for all of this, so cheaper is better. I noticed that the Steel ones are a little cheaper, but how does the Aluminum one justify the extra price. I'm under the assumption that is weighs less, but I don't know how that helps.
Sorry for the 20 questions, hope ya'll can help.
I'm having some issues with my clutch, I highly believe it's one of the cylinders, but the clutch is slipping a bit and it's getting worse. The "let out point" is getting really far up (toward the dash), but I don't see that the fluid is low. I keep smelling burnt clutch and I'm afraid I'll be replacing it soon.
I'm taking it into the Chevy house (still under warrantee) soon to find out exactly.
</background>
None the less, I'm looking around at a new clutch and I really like the SPEC stage II or III. The don't seem to be much in price difference, so I might throw in the extra couple of bucks and get a little bigger one. (unless I'm stupid and shouldn't put get the stage III ***no mods right now ***)
What I'm wondering is while I'm in there, do I have to resurface or replace the flywheel? Or is it one of those "do it while you can" things? If it's better to get a new one, what do ya'll suggest? I'll have to save up for all of this, so cheaper is better. I noticed that the Steel ones are a little cheaper, but how does the Aluminum one justify the extra price. I'm under the assumption that is weighs less, but I don't know how that helps.
Sorry for the 20 questions, hope ya'll can help.
07-06-2005, 03:10 PM
#2
With a fresh clutch disk re-surfacing or replacing the flywheel is a must. Think along the same lines as fresh brake pads and turning rotors.
The steel is better for a heavy car as it has more rotational mass. This helps you get off of the line smoother and better 60' times. Lighter aluminum flywheels give less parasitic horsepower loss (more rwhp) but is used more in road race applications.
The steel is better for a heavy car as it has more rotational mass. This helps you get off of the line smoother and better 60' times. Lighter aluminum flywheels give less parasitic horsepower loss (more rwhp) but is used more in road race applications.
07-06-2005, 04:19 PM
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Good to know, guess I don't need to spend the extra cash on the Aluminum one.
Can ya'll suggest any specific brand on the Flywheel, or should I just stick with the stock?
Can ya'll suggest any specific brand on the Flywheel, or should I just stick with the stock?
07-06-2005, 04:23 PM
#4
If you've got the cash I would go ahead with a billet steel. The metallic disks in some of the more serious clutches are very hard in the stock iron flywheel. The billet is a safer option than the stock.
That being said I have run a couple of stock flywheels with my ram 6130 disk for close to 5 years now.
That being said I have run a couple of stock flywheels with my ram 6130 disk for close to 5 years now.
07-07-2005, 09:24 AM
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Resurfacing is fine but you should rebalance the assembly afterwords (pressure plate, disk flywheel) and make note of the marks they make when the balance it. Be sure to line up those marks when you install.
07-07-2005, 09:52 AM
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I have a spec 3 with 4K miles on it or so and it's about down to the rivets, I took it out when I had to repair the trans. I put a Textralia back in and used the oem F/W it came with. The spec was still working, but I knew It would need replaced soon, so I did it also.
I am willing to sell the old one, the spec with a billet steel F/W for 250.00 for all of it. Or just the F/W for 150.00. It is a very nice F/W. It could used resurfaced but it does'nt have any grooves in it. I can send you pics of all of it.
I am willing to sell the old one, the spec with a billet steel F/W for 250.00 for all of it. Or just the F/W for 150.00. It is a very nice F/W. It could used resurfaced but it does'nt have any grooves in it. I can send you pics of all of it.