Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

What is easiest way to properly bleed clutch? My clutch pedal likes to drop almost to floor on hot days, and when I get into car have to pull up. So, what is proper way to bleed clutch? I did NOT bench bleed master/slave. Is that bad? Any/ALL info is appreciated. Thank you.

NHRATA01

iTrader: (10)

Let me tell ya, I was going to use the typical method of one person pumping the clutch and another cracking the slave bleeder valve just above the hydraulic line. But its a major PITA to get a socket in there (god help you if you drop a socket down the bellhousing!), its messy, and hard to see if you're really getting out air bubbles.

The only suggestion I can give you there is search for what Camaraholic did, which is to drill a hole lined up with the bleed valve through the floorpan - this way you can sit in the driver's seat and pump the clutch while turning the wrench on the bleed valve.

But I bought a Mityvac from sears and admittedly paid too much for it ($70) but it makes life so much easier and really works well. I've heard if you look around you can find the kits for as low as $40. So my advice is to go that route.

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

Are all your hydraulics new? Any external leaks, reservoir level staying full? If new hydraulics, I think what is happening(and this has been discussed before) is that the fluid is getting hot and maybe causing the MC to swell slightly and creating internal leaks in the MC. Because what you're describing is exactly what happens when you do the manual bleed method of one person pressing in the clutch pedal and another cracking the bleeder. The pedal goes to the floor and you have to pull it up. So..if you don't have any external leaks then you must have an internal leak somewhere. The only logical place is in the MC.
Now, try insulating ALL of your hydraulic line with maybe rubber hose AND the chrome reflective tape. Also route the hydraulic line as far away from exhaust and heat as possible. I'm even thinking about wrapping my MC to keep heat off that too.
Next put in DOT 4 brake fluid. Seems to be a little better than DOT 3. I got mine at NAPA.

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

Master cylinder is used slave is new. And the pedal dropping to the floor isn't from driving, it is from car sitting on REALLY hot days. Just sitting in parking lot which tells me there's probably air in the line still. FWIW, reservoir stays 100% FULL. No problems there.

Dumb question, but when bleeding hydraulics, does car need to be level? Will I be ok just by jacking up front of car only and bleeding?

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

I'd try to keep it fairly level. The reason being is that if it's angled too much it might uncover the hole in the bottom of the reservoir when you're bleeding unless you have someone righ there with you to keep a really close eye on it.
I'd probably go ahead and spring for a new MC. The MC you have might have internal leaks due to wear etc...

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

how much do new MC's go for usually? Also where to buy?

ibanez7

iTrader: (7)

I just replaced the slave cylinder on my 01 z28, it seemed from aggressive driving, I exploded the throwout bearing the point of no remaining parts.

anyways I bled on the hydaulics the conventional way, one person pumping the clutch the other opening and closing the bleeder on the slave. It wasnt too bad to do, just messy. Just make sure you over do it, since you can see the air bubbles. Also if any hydraulic fluid gets on painted parts of the car, wipe it off right away, the fluid eats paint

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

I know Thunder and Futral sell them. Both the GM and the McLeod. The Mcleod is around $300ish and the stock GM is around $150ish. A modified GM may be a little more, not sure...I always use the McLeod.