soupnazi67

Several times now my clutch pedal has failed to spring all the way back up. When this happens, depressing the clutch pedal to the floor doesn't completely disengage the clutch. If I put my toe under the pedal and pull it back up, it works normally for a while. Anyone got any ideas?

This is on my 2000 WS6 that I have had for about 3 weeks now.

Thanks,
Seth
00 Pewter WS6, M6, LS6 intake, ported MAF, Kumhos, Whisper Lid, SLP Loudmouth, Factory Hurst, Short Stick, Cross Drilled Rotors of unknow origin, STB, probably more...

408Maro

iTrader: (14)

its the same problem with me and i think about2 other people,doesnt it just **** you off,i cant figure it out either

Midnite_LS1

iTrader: (26)

Sounds like your slave cylinder is out...time to pull the tranny.

SupahRich

iTrader: (14)

'98-'00 F-bodies are popular for the exact problem you just described. Does the problem usually present itself when you're getting on it and shifting hard @ high RPM's?

Swap out to an '01+ slave cylinder and do the drill mod (do a search for more info on it) and you should be good to go. It's a pain in the *** for me as well, I purchased an updated slave a long time ago, I just haven't got around to installing it yet.

02blckws6

what is the suggestion if the car is an 02ws6 with 23k miles from what i know the 01-02 aren't supposed to have this problem

soupnazi67

Yes, it first started yesterday when I was getting on it pretty with a high RPM 1-2 shift. I pulled the pedal back up with my foot, it worked OK for normal shifts, then did the same thing when I got on it again. Is there any way to verify it is the slave cylinder?

soupnazi67

Yes, it first started yesterday when I was getting on it pretty hard with a high RPM 1-2 shift. I pulled the pedal back up with my foot, it worked OK for normal shifts, then did the same thing when I got on it again. Is there any way to verify it is the slave cylinder?

408Maro

iTrader: (14)

well mines a 02 and it still happens so im guessin its just ls1's in general it happens to me on hard shifts at high rpms and i to have to pull it with my foot

TOSTO RACING

iTrader: (37)

Guys I'm also fighting this . I have a brand new updated slave 01-02 and spec 5 clutch new and new McCleoud master.Its only when I get on it, its really aggrivating I wish I knew the fix but its really pissing me off. I bought the best and still having problems anyone else know what it could be?

TOSTO RACING

iTrader: (37)

The thing with mine is I don't even have to shift just jumping on it and it hangs there about half way until I pump it I've bled it and bled and mighty vac bled it

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

The C5/Z06's do this also. Normally just junk GM clutches, that can't handle the power. My Z06 is doing this when power shifting hard, and a buddies Z06 with n2o. I heard something about mix/matching the Mcleod cyl with other componets may be problematic?
Robert

LS_WANG

Your **** is gone, or almost out of the door is the easiest way I can put it!!!! Clutch goes, then your slave is gone, then you need a new master!!! i jsut went through the whole process, stop guessing and start buying!!! Get a Ram w/Billet flywheel, 2001-02 Slave cylinder, and a Adjustable Master from Futral Motorsports!!! I am back in action with that set up, I had the same problem as you, now I have no problem, u do, hope you don't see me on the streets!!!

00Vette

iTrader: (4)

I'd start with an adjustable master cylinder and talk to some f-body guys about the drill mod. It seems to work. I've known of one personal friend who has done it and loved the results. I've read about many others on here who also have done it with much success. I would start with that before you rip into a new clutch.......although a new clutch would be nice.. I am having similar yet different issues. GM needs to work on there product a bit. Good luck

soupnazi67

Seems like there would be a logical method to troubleshoot and pinpoint the problem. Is it worth trying to bleed the system? Does anyone have a link to a "How to" for bleeding the system? I think I would like to try that before just going out an spending $500-$1000 on a master, slave, clutch, and flywheel.

LS_WANG

well, u are going to have to do it anyways, might as well do it all at once.

spanker

i work at a gm dealer and seem to remember something about cleaning the splines on the tranny input shaft and the splines on the clutch disc to eliminate binding at high rpm

2000_LS1

I have heard about he exhaust getting something too hot and the clutch not working properly at higher operating temp or higher rpms. The fix I believe I read was to move the line away from the exhaust manifolds or headers on the passenger side. I think they just zip tied it to something to keep it away. I may waaaaay off but it's worth looking into. I believe thay said the problem is with headers and while racing/hard shifting is going on.

On the other hand, LS_WANG has a good point. Just go ahead and do it right or don't do it at all. Save the money, get you a flywheel (lighter), Clutch, Cylinder, and adjustable Master. That would be all in all the best way to do it.

Let us know what you find out and what fixed it please.

yekta

iTrader: (8)

www.installuniversity.com

right now Im doing that but I failed at something, u have to be very careful and read everything twice Btw this mod is only for F-bodies, Corvette's have somthing different in there...

2000_LS1

^^Gotta love that site^^

soupnazi67

Thanks for that link. That is a handy site. The more I read, I am starting to think it is a heat issue with the hydraulics. It was very hot the day that it happened and it was only after a spirited 10 minute cruise down the interstate in 5th gear that it happened. I am betting that it got the fluid boiling. I am going to get under the car and see where the line runs in relation to the exhaust and maybe see if I can put on some heat shielding.