spec 5
07-18-2005, 09:31 PM
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spec 5 Just finished installing a spec stage 5 and a billet steel flywheel in my ss. My first impressions are good. It is surprisingly easy to drive on the street. Grabs like crazy. Hope to get some track times this weekend if it will stop raining.
07-19-2005, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ninobrn99
how's the chatter?
07-19-2005, 10:26 AM
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Hey couple questions for both you guys and anyone else. What MC are you using? Did you use a shim behind the slave? Where does your pedal release and how does it feel?
07-19-2005, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Dustin Butts
Hey couple questions for both you guys and anyone else. What MC are you using? Did you use a shim behind the slave? Where does your pedal release and how does it feel?
07-20-2005, 12:15 AM
#7
I am using the stock master/ no drill mod.
I did install the shim behinde the slave.
Pedal feels great just a bit harder than my stock clutch on my Hawk, it starts to release about 3-4'' off of te floor, about 1/4 travel.
Clutch has been great almost 4000 miles, and no problems except for the squeeling.
I did install the shim behinde the slave.
Pedal feels great just a bit harder than my stock clutch on my Hawk, it starts to release about 3-4'' off of te floor, about 1/4 travel.
Clutch has been great almost 4000 miles, and no problems except for the squeeling.
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07-20-2005, 06:28 AM
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Excellent. Mine releases about the same distance off the floor. I have the McLeod MC w/drill mod and with no shim. I tried the shim but it was(I assume) causing the slave/TO to bottom out and hold some pressure on the pp fingers which caused some slippage. I removed the shim and all is well. Grabs like a muuhhggg...Mine squeals too. I could care less as long as it holds!
07-20-2005, 07:45 AM
#9
We've installed alot of Stage 5's lately and everybody loves them.They are holding cars that were burning up every other clutch out there.The drivability is awesome.Peddle pressure is lighter than stock. The only down side is the squeek which nobody really cares about because it is holding the HP 
07-20-2005, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
We've installed alot of Stage 5's lately and everybody loves them.They are holding cars that were burning up every other clutch out there.The drivability is awesome.Peddle pressure is lighter than stock. The only down side is the squeek which nobody really cares about because it is holding the HP
07-20-2005, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
We've installed alot of Stage 5's lately and everybody loves them.They are holding cars that were burning up every other clutch out there.The drivability is awesome.Peddle pressure is lighter than stock. The only down side is the squeek which nobody really cares about because it is holding the HP
07-20-2005, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM Transmissions
Amen Mine worked well for 2 yrs when the others didn't last 2 weeks.
Thanks Rod...
07-21-2005, 04:16 PM
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Have you ever owned, driven, or ridden in a car that had worn out, almost bald tires and an open differential? You remember when you would leave from a stop while turning a corner and the ole one wheel peel on the bald tires would squeal a little? It sounds exactly like that. Mine's too new(maybe 300 miles) to know if it'll ever leave yet.
07-21-2005, 06:02 PM
#16
Hope yours lasts longer than mine, about 5000 miles. Started slipping and then took a dump. I rarely ever race the car and most miles were DD miles. Got the run around from Spec and they actually told me that its supposed to slip after DD miles because its getting glazed so run it one time and let it slip like that then IM good to go, wrong. Clutch wouldnt hold the car in 5th on the highway going up a slight incline. Well the replacd it with a Stage 4 because your not supposed to drive a Stage 5 only race it, ok whatever, and within 5000 miles when I spray I smell clutch like its burning. Good Ol' Spec. 
07-21-2005, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by necrocannibal
Hope yours lasts longer than mine, about 5000 miles. Started slipping and then took a dump. I rarely ever race the car and most miles were DD miles. Got the run around from Spec and they actually told me that its supposed to slip after DD miles because its getting glazed so run it one time and let it slip like that then IM good to go, wrong. Clutch wouldnt hold the car in 5th on the highway going up a slight incline. Well the replacd it with a Stage 4 because your not supposed to drive a Stage 5 only race it, ok whatever, and within 5000 miles when I spray I smell clutch like its burning. Good Ol' Spec.
07-21-2005, 07:57 PM
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I must admit, I've had a lot of clutches and I've learned a few things over the years. With a hi-po clutch you really have to be careful with the way you drive them on the street. I mean when I leave from a stop I don't let the clutch out gently and slowly like a stock clutch and ease off. When I get ready to go I blip the gas up and let the pedal out quickly and abruptly. The tires squeal 99% of the time. This is the only way for a hi-po clutch to last a long time on the street. The do not like slippage! They will heat and glaze up and be ruined.
Also if you read some posts by AtlantaRTA and look at his diagrams you'll see there is a way to measure to obtain the optimum clearance between the TO bearing face and the PP fingers(approx .135"). You can shim accordingly to achieve the proper distance. AtlantaRTA is using a McLeod slave but with the stock slave the measurements are the same. You will just need to pull the TO back against it's spring til it's bottomed out and then measure form the trans mounting face to the TO bearing face. There must be enough distance for the pp fingers to move back(towards the trans) as the clutch plate wears. If not the TO will bottom out and put a constant pressure load on the pp fingers and cause the pp to lose clamping force and slip.
Also if you read some posts by AtlantaRTA and look at his diagrams you'll see there is a way to measure to obtain the optimum clearance between the TO bearing face and the PP fingers(approx .135"). You can shim accordingly to achieve the proper distance. AtlantaRTA is using a McLeod slave but with the stock slave the measurements are the same. You will just need to pull the TO back against it's spring til it's bottomed out and then measure form the trans mounting face to the TO bearing face. There must be enough distance for the pp fingers to move back(towards the trans) as the clutch plate wears. If not the TO will bottom out and put a constant pressure load on the pp fingers and cause the pp to lose clamping force and slip.
07-23-2005, 06:29 AM
#19
Originally Posted by Dustin Butts
I must admit, I've had a lot of clutches and I've learned a few things over the years. With a hi-po clutch you really have to be careful with the way you drive them on the street. I mean when I leave from a stop I don't let the clutch out gently and slowly like a stock clutch and ease off. When I get ready to go I blip the gas up and let the pedal out quickly and abruptly. The tires squeal 99% of the time. This is the only way for a hi-po clutch to last a long time on the street. The do not like slippage! They will heat and glaze up and be ruined.
Also if you read some posts by AtlantaRTA and look at his diagrams you'll see there is a way to measure to obtain the optimum clearance between the TO bearing face and the PP fingers(approx .135"). You can shim accordingly to achieve the proper distance. AtlantaRTA is using a McLeod slave but with the stock slave the measurements are the same. You will just need to pull the TO back against it's spring til it's bottomed out and then measure form the trans mounting face to the TO bearing face. There must be enough distance for the pp fingers to move back(towards the trans) as the clutch plate wears. If not the TO will bottom out and put a constant pressure load on the pp fingers and cause the pp to lose clamping force and slip.
Also if you read some posts by AtlantaRTA and look at his diagrams you'll see there is a way to measure to obtain the optimum clearance between the TO bearing face and the PP fingers(approx .135"). You can shim accordingly to achieve the proper distance. AtlantaRTA is using a McLeod slave but with the stock slave the measurements are the same. You will just need to pull the TO back against it's spring til it's bottomed out and then measure form the trans mounting face to the TO bearing face. There must be enough distance for the pp fingers to move back(towards the trans) as the clutch plate wears. If not the TO will bottom out and put a constant pressure load on the pp fingers and cause the pp to lose clamping force and slip.
If this is true about the Hi Performance clutch then personally I think people have been misled via the words "streetable, like stock, etc." If you cant slip a clutch you paid almost a grand for compared to a clutch you pay 400 that you can slip forever then something is wrong. A streetable clutch needs to be able to negotiate traffic w/out discomfort to the driver. If I take what you say as face value then many of us have purchased a race clutch and to get 10k miles out of it I need to pop the clutch at every stop light or risk only getting 3k to 5k miles out of the clutch.
07-23-2005, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by VINCE
If this is true about the Hi Performance clutch then personally I think people have been misled via the words "streetable, like stock, etc." If you cant slip a clutch you paid almost a grand for compared to a clutch you pay 400 that you can slip forever then something is wrong. A streetable clutch needs to be able to negotiate traffic w/out discomfort to the driver. If I take what you say as face value then many of us have purchased a race clutch and to get 10k miles out of it I need to pop the clutch at every stop light or risk only getting 3k to 5k miles out of the clutch.
PERSONALLY, the jury is still out for me on the Textralia. It may be the perfect, streetable, hi-po clutch. Time will tell.
Love y'all
D