Slave Cylinder Install
07-19-2005, 04:21 PM
#4
Originally Posted by Ferocity02
All you need to do is follow a clutch install guide. Then stop once the tranny is out. You might as well put in a new clutch while your at it. You will already be doing all of the hard work... But thats up to you, a new clutch isnt cheap.
I didn't see anything on Installuniversity for a slave install. Do I have to pull the Tranny to install the Slave cylinder?! If I do, would I just have to pull it and the slave would be right there? I'm not even sure exactly where it is. I thought it'd be right next to the tranny? Would I have to bleed the system when doing a slave install? My clutch is okay for now, I'm definetly not trying to buy a new clutch now.
07-19-2005, 05:33 PM
#5
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The slave is on the input shaft of the trans. You need to pull the trans out far enough to slide the slave over it. It is held to the input shaft with 2 10MM bolts. Use a clutch install guide to show you how. Yes you wil need to bleed after the install.
07-26-2005, 09:39 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Steve Burger
The slave is on the input shaft of the trans. You need to pull the trans out far enough to slide the slave over it. It is held to the input shaft with 2 10MM bolts. Use a clutch install guide to show you how. Yes you wil need to bleed after the install.
Can I just pour DOT 4 fluid into the top of the slave (in that brass fitting that’s 11/16ths or 11mm) to get the air out and not have to worry about bleeding the entire hydraulic system? I’m not replacing the master at this time. I’ll be installing a new master in a few weeks along doing with the drill mod. So I’m hoping I can just bleed the system at that time.
I’m doing headers at the same time and just want to get my car working again. T.I.A!
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07-26-2005, 08:38 PM
#11
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All "288" slaves come pre-bled from the factory. It is always a good idea to bleed the line though. However, I would do the "reverse bleed" at the clutch reservoir than mess with the bleeder screw on the slave.
07-27-2005, 05:23 PM
#12
Originally Posted by GETSOMZ28
All "288" slaves come pre-bled from the factory. It is always a good idea to bleed the line though. However, I would do the "reverse bleed" at the clutch reservoir than mess with the bleeder screw on the slave.
Since I don't have to have the tranny pulled in order to bleed the system, I'm going to put it all back together, see if I need to bleed the system and then I will bleed if I need to.
I really hope I don't have to though.
I have that stupid clutch sticking problem (thus why I'm doing this install) so I want to do one install at a time to see what the culprit was.
I'll let you guys know if I had to bleed after the slave. Have you guys done just a slave install and your clutch didn't work properly?
07-27-2005, 07:10 PM
#13
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You need a mityvac or any handheld vacuum. Stick one of the little attachments into the small hole in the clutch reservoir. Pump the mityvac to ~20lbs of vacuum and watch the bubbles come out.
07-30-2005, 02:50 PM
#14
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Xtnct00WS6, will you explain your problem in a little more detail?
I am having a problem with my clutch after the car is warm. It seems like the clutch isn't fully disengaging when i push the pedal down or go into neutral and thus causes the car to idle low and attempt to stall on me. I would lke to know your problem to maybe help me out in diagnosing my problem.
I am having a problem with my clutch after the car is warm. It seems like the clutch isn't fully disengaging when i push the pedal down or go into neutral and thus causes the car to idle low and attempt to stall on me. I would lke to know your problem to maybe help me out in diagnosing my problem.
08-05-2005, 10:04 PM
#15
Originally Posted by XCESPWR
Xtnct00WS6, will you explain your problem in a little more detail?
I am having a problem with my clutch after the car is warm. It seems like the clutch isn't fully disengaging when i push the pedal down or go into neutral and thus causes the car to idle low and attempt to stall on me. I would lke to know your problem to maybe help me out in diagnosing my problem.
I am having a problem with my clutch after the car is warm. It seems like the clutch isn't fully disengaging when i push the pedal down or go into neutral and thus causes the car to idle low and attempt to stall on me. I would lke to know your problem to maybe help me out in diagnosing my problem.
08-08-2005, 07:47 PM
#16
UPDATE:
I got the new slave in and it doesn't seem to stick anymore, but since I didn't bleed the system, the clutch feels a little off. It's hard to describe what's wrong, but it's def. not race ready.
The first time I put the pedal down it didn't come back up, but then after pumping it a few times, it gained pressure and seemed okay. It's not how it's supposed to be yet though. I'll have to bleed it and see how it goes. I'm almost postive that if I bleed the clutch it'll be back to normal.
Since I bought DOT 4 brake fluid, is it bad to mix the factory stuff and the new DOT 4?
I got the new slave in and it doesn't seem to stick anymore, but since I didn't bleed the system, the clutch feels a little off. It's hard to describe what's wrong, but it's def. not race ready.
The first time I put the pedal down it didn't come back up, but then after pumping it a few times, it gained pressure and seemed okay. It's not how it's supposed to be yet though. I'll have to bleed it and see how it goes. I'm almost postive that if I bleed the clutch it'll be back to normal.
Since I bought DOT 4 brake fluid, is it bad to mix the factory stuff and the new DOT 4?
