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Replacing stock hydraulic lines **pics inside**

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Old 07-30-2005, 06:32 PM
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Default Replacing stock hydraulic lines **pics inside**

I work on aircraft for a living and I am used to dealing with either AN or MS lines and fittings. I hate the stock GM hyd lines. SO I decided to put some -4AN lines in place and add my own bleeding system. I just seted it out and it shure seems different. The clutch engages much quicker when letting it out....and the pedal feels like spring pressure only.

I made a simple mod into a big project as usual..complete with making new tools for the new setup. I havent tested it much besides dumping the clutch lightly in the driveway but it feels very good. The real test will come when shifting as quick as possible and seeing how notchy everything is. Anyways here are progress pics.

heres the modded slave and master using Mcloeds fittings...$35 each



Here is the completed new -4 stainless/high pressure aircraft line. The T-fitting is strictly for bleeding and has a check valve in it.


Here is the elcheapo Harbor freight oiler I bout and rigged up with a -4 AN fitting to hook to the bleeder. This el cheapo oil can was able to generate 100 psi easy. I was surprised. Works great for $7



The oiler with the An line hooked up to the bleeder T fitting. Opened the slave bleeder and pump the oil can till it comes out the slave bleeder. Tighten the slave bleeder and pump the clutch more. Open bleeder and repeat. Close bleeder and keep pumping till fluid comes out the reservoir on top. I opened the cap and fluide cam out...it was topped off and had no air.



I love working on the floor..yay :doh:

Old 07-30-2005, 08:07 PM
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That is killer. If this works I'll do it just for the better mechanical advantage.
Old 07-30-2005, 10:18 PM
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35 bucks for one fitting holy crap that expensive
Old 07-31-2005, 11:28 PM
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yeah...kind of expensive. But the clutch feels GREAT as far as shifting goes. Better than ever before.
Old 08-01-2005, 10:28 AM
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thats good
Old 08-01-2005, 12:18 PM
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let us know how it works out for ya Al. i'd contemplated this for a while but never got around to it.
Old 08-01-2005, 12:21 PM
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going to the track on thursday. I will report how it all works out. I did go our sat night and beat on the car and it was flawlless so far. Shifting is much smoother and pedal pressure seems much lighter when slamming the pedal down.
Old 08-01-2005, 07:55 PM
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So are you saying you replaced the braided clutch line with a hard stainless line from the slave to the reservoir? Any thoughts on replacing the flimsy little reservoir with something better and maybe bigger?
Old 08-02-2005, 12:03 AM
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Havatampa..thats not a bad idea. You could replace that with just about any type of reservoir. Its only purpose is to allow fluid to gravity feed into the slave as its required. You would not have to change anything if you wanted to do that....just find a suitable reservoir and figure out how to mount it.

As far as the lines...yes..replaced the braided line with the next size larger AN stainless lines and fittings. And then added a T with a check valve for bleeding. Makes it a more "normal" system.
Old 08-02-2005, 01:05 AM
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Nice work Al. So having the tee and extra bleeder allows to bleed the slave and then the master, rather than bleeding both at same time through bleeder at slave. Do I understand this correctly? How long did this take? I also work with ss tube and AN/JIC/SAE fittings on a regular basis at work. Allways custom bending/plumbing, but never thought of this idea. What heat shield are you using and where did you get it? Is the bleeder still on slave, if so is there a bleed extension hose/line?
Robert
Old 08-02-2005, 03:41 AM
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Robert...I am just using the T to pump in fluid. If I hook it up and just pump fluid...it goes to the reservoir. SO you have to open the bleeder on the slave first. That will get the fluid flowing from there first. Once thats bled...close it and keep pumping the oil can till its flowing out the reservoir with no air bubles.

Good eye on the heat stuff. I forgot to mention that I took great care to insulate these lines. I used a 50 foot roll of header wrap on the headers...then used the orange high temp silicone/fibergalss insulation you see on aircraft hoses followed by a wrapping of high temp aluminum foil reflective material. This should keep the lines/fluid very cool. I did several launches back to back with no pedal issues the other night.
Old 08-02-2005, 06:04 AM
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Did you have to tap the master and slave for the fittings to work or are they a factory style fitting with the rollpin lock? If they are rollpin type do you have a part number by chance?
Thanks
Elec

Last edited by Elec87; 08-02-2005 at 11:30 AM.
Old 08-02-2005, 12:24 PM
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ahhh crap...I threw away the reciept. The fittings are the stock GM with the roll pin on one side and -4AN on the other. So its a snap. Mcloed has them. Just call Mcloed direct.
Old 08-07-2005, 08:29 PM
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How's this setup holding up? Have you decided whether or not it's a worthwhile modification?
Old 08-07-2005, 08:42 PM
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well..i went to the track thursday. Only got two real passes. Only one was halfway decent while i figured out what PSI to launch on the 28x12.5 et streets. It was a crappy 1.57 and ran a crappy 10.7 at 128.6. But I can tell you there seems to be NO hint of that squishy feeling in the pedal any more. I think much of that is due to keeping the heat down. And that comes from getting the PP to clamp quickly. And the quick bleedback probably helps a bit and the extra protection from the heat will help too.

This SPEC 5 is used and just has resurfaced PP and flywheel...disc is used. But so far its by far the best setup I have tried. I really wanted another run to hammer it out of the hole at 6000+. The 1.57 was only 4500 or so.

Last edited by 383LQ4SS; 08-07-2005 at 10:11 PM.
Old 08-07-2005, 08:46 PM
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oh...so basically...i would say hell yes. I have not missed a shift since redoing this setup
Old 08-07-2005, 09:16 PM
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Sounds good. Is there going to be a problem with strain on the hard line fittings as far as tranny movement now that you've replaced the flexible braided line to the master? Sucks GM had to make the master out of plastic.
Old 08-07-2005, 10:03 PM
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I only made half from hard lines. The rest is some -4An 3500 psi braided steel,teflon lined aircraft hose. So there is some flex to it. But I also have poly mounts all around. That part doesnt move much.
Old 08-07-2005, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by HavATampa
Sounds good. Is there going to be a problem with strain on the hard line fittings as far as tranny movement now that you've replaced the flexible braided line to the master? Sucks GM had to make the master out of plastic.
I dont belive theyre hard lines, just a larger diameter braided line.

I think I saw a while back that McLeoud sells premade lines for our car that are better than stock in some way (dont remember the specifcs) but they dont have the T-fitting in the middle. If this set up works out right can I send you my stuff and you do the conversion for me. Id be willing to pay.
Old 08-07-2005, 10:16 PM
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yeah...Mcloed makes them. But they were $165 for a set and had the OEM QD which i wanted to eliminate. The QD is great for non messy tranny removal...but its more of a PITA for me. Plus the stock style lines dont apear to be "race" quality. So I just bough the fittings at $35 each and I have an abundance of aircraft lines and tubing.

If you really want to go to this setup I would make up a set. PM me and Ill let you know the easiest way to get it done and how much.


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