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Learn the Newbie, Chapter 18 - Clutches

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Old 08-21-2005, 11:48 PM
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Default Learn the Newbie, Chapter 18 - Clutches

Hi everybody, and welcome to the next chapter in that series you all love... Learn the Newbie!! Today we'll be discussing clutches. By the time we're done with this episode, the newbie (that would be me) will understand the answers to these questions:

1) What is a "slave cylinder," where does it go, and what does it do?
2) What are "shims," where do they go, and what do they do?
3) Can an aluminium flywheel withstand an adequate amount of horsepower, or is a steel flywheel more advisable (I'm definitely wanting to drop weight on this one if possible)?
4) How does a twin disc clutch work, and how (besides the obvious) is it different or superior to a single disc clutch?
5) What all should be included in a clutch replacement? In other words, what parts can or should be reused?


Okay, so now that I have my ridiculous game-show bit out of the way, here's my situation. I've got a stock (Z06) clutch that's starting to slip and is killing me at the track. I'm going to be needing a clutch pretty soon. The car is not a daily driver, so if the install or anything else goes poorly, it won't be the end of the world. I am no mechanic, and I don't know jack about clutches. Being the analytical person that I am, though, I don't want to just say, "What clutch should I get?" I want to understand what I'm buying and why I'm buying it. So, I figured that I would create a thread in which you guys can help me make my own educated decision instead of me just having you tell me what to buy. So, thanks in advance, and enjoy learning the newbie!

Old 08-22-2005, 05:45 PM
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slave cylinder is the Hydraulic throw out bearing, it slides over the input shaft on the front of the transmission housing, and disnegauges your clutch when you push on the peddel

Shims go behind the Slave Cylinder and bring it closer to the clutch if it won't touch and disengauge properly. usualy not needed.

Alum flywheels arn't a highly reccommended piece. if your seriuos about racing, get a SFI approved one because hopefully you'll need it. I prefer steel because it's heavy, and once it's spinning, it takes more to stop, you have the inertia of the spinning mass to help you out off the line. an alum flywheel is lighter and easier to stop but can help out in auto-x from what i've heard

Twin disc is a clutch with a pressure plate, clutch, intermediat pressure plate, second clutch disc, and then the flywheel. alot more surface area to spread the load of the motor power over. again, personaly overkill. Personaly, i have, and HIGHLY reccomend the 0Z700 clutch, or "that aussie clutch" that kangaroo fuzz is some seriously strong ****. it's wonderfull to drive around on daily, and i'm pacin it at 6500 rpm launches and going high 11's with it, and there's people here doing much more than that on it.

When replacing the clutch, change, the Flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, and the throwout bearing. sometimes the master cylinder, this is attached to the firewall and is what the clutch peddel pushes on. it forces fluid through the line into the slave cylinder and disengauges the clutch. since you already have the upgraded M/C by default i'm not really sure you'd need too replace it unless you go with an excessively heavy sprung clutch
Old 08-23-2005, 01:15 PM
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Nice response wicked... in addition...

You probably should replace the pilot bearing while replacing the clutch, it's a cheap easy part while you're in there.... Also it isn't always necessary to replace the flywheel, sometimes you can have it resurfaced depending on thickness and condition.




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