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Street clutch for H/C car??

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Old 08-25-2005, 02:00 PM
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Default Street clutch for H/C car??

I running a factory clutch with 49K miles in a street car. The car has had ported heads and a cam for 3 years. I AM VERY EASY ON CLUTCHES.

Anyway, if I swaped out the factory clutch what should I replace it with?

I need a street clutch with no chatter and something I can drive in heavy traffic.

No "race clutch" suggestions please.
Old 08-25-2005, 02:18 PM
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textralia will do more than just fine
Old 08-25-2005, 02:19 PM
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The LS6 clutch would be more than plenty for you based on what you've described.
Old 08-25-2005, 04:41 PM
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I'd put a Z06 in it. Have one in mine, no chatter, good grab, and if you're not beating on it it will hold up fine. Plus you can get the PP, friction, and flyhweel for about $400.
Old 08-25-2005, 05:37 PM
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Would a ZO6 clutch hold at say 400 whp with occassional track visits?
Old 08-25-2005, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by AaronR
Would a ZO6 clutch hold at say 400 whp with occassional track visits?
As long as you refrain from 6000 RPM dumps on sticky tires.
Old 08-25-2005, 07:29 PM
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With a cam, I'd get a spec stage 3. I've felt my brother's ls6 clutch slip pretty badly in his 01 ws6 with only a lid and catback.
Old 08-26-2005, 03:14 PM
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If one stay's on street tires and doesn't abuse the clutch it will hold h/c power all day for a very long time.
Old 08-26-2005, 06:01 PM
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If the LS6 isn't going to work for you and you're looking for a very streetable clutch w/minimal chatter, I'd reccomened the Textralia. Chatter is pretty much non-existant on that one, but the Spec 3 will chatter a bit and is more an on/off switch than the Spec...I've had both.
Old 08-27-2005, 07:13 AM
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I'm confused as to why the LS6 won't work?

He states that he has run the factory clutch with H/C for 3 years w/out issue.

The LS6 has more TQ holding power so he should be even better off in terms of longevity. It won't have any chatter and is less than $400 complete w/new flywheel.
Old 08-27-2005, 12:16 PM
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i too would recommend the Textralia...it feels like a stock clutch..i have no chatter at all and it holds the power. i know you dont abuse clutches and your easy on them but if your gonna tear it down y not just put something in there that will do the job and than have some insurance behind it incase you decide you want to do nitrous or some other power adder??
stay away from Spec....worse clutch i ever had. melted the disc to the flywheel on mine as most owners have done the same. less than 10k miles
goodluck...theres currently a Textralia GP on the sponsor section.
Old 08-28-2005, 09:22 AM
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It looks like the key elements to this are 1) STREET CLUTCH 2) NO CHATTER 3) HEAVY TRAFFIC, which means lots of starting from a standstill 4) NO RACE CLUTCH SUGGESTIONS PLEASE. You want something that works as good as an OEM part, buy an OEM part. With darn few exceptions, there is no aftermarket clutch that can give you the driveability of the LS6/Z06 clutch. Not much chatter? Almost no chatter? If I launch it right there isn't any chatter? BULLCRAP! Do a search on any of the exotic clutch setups and the truthful guys will admit that their aftermarket clutches are not in the same league as the Z06 for daily driving comfort. They shimmie, shake, rattle, and chatter, to greater or lesser degrees. Buy the ZO6. It is the clutch you are asking for. You'll be happy with it and it's priced right. On the other hand, you can pay a grand (or more) for a clutch kit and if you learn to launch it just right, you'll have almost no chatter, urr, just a little chatter, urr, only a few bolts falling out of your dash during the 400-mile-break-in (shake-in) period, but it'll grab like a ***** at 5000k dumps until you break your tranny and rear gears. Yeah, that's the ticket, get a clutch with no give that'll make everything else break so you can park it in the driveway 75% of the time and buy a little "beater" that gets good gas mileage to drive back and forth to your job - and the second job you'll need to pay for all of it. I've said this before and I'll say it once more. I see posts where guys say they've got 80K or 90K on their OEM clutches with disparate styles of driving. Show me the aftermarket products that can match that kind of driveability and durability test. There ain't none! I've already been through this with my '02 SS. Listen to the voices of reason that have advised you to buy the Z06.

Last edited by kenp; 08-28-2005 at 05:24 PM.
Old 08-28-2005, 11:22 AM
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love'n mine...

get it, stay with street tread, save the rear end too.
Old 08-28-2005, 12:12 PM
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FWIW, I'm gonna be going back to an LS6 clutch from a RAM Powergrip...I'm tired of the chatter (which can be controlled), and the general lack of driveability around town. It holds great, but I'm afraid I'm gonna break something I can't afford to replace. I think I'll leave my car modding to some nice, shiny rims and be done with it.
Old 08-28-2005, 03:12 PM
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It does sound like the ls6 clutch fits the bill for your needs. Hell, if you made the stock clutch last on a H/C setup, then the ls6 should have no problem holding the power.
Old 08-29-2005, 02:22 PM
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OK; is there more than one type of LS6/Zo6 clutch? The first GM car had 405HP and now the 2006 ZO6 has 500HP; right?

Where do I get this -------> SDPC?

Can I re-surface (cut) my old flywheel or is this a dopey idea?
Old 08-30-2005, 12:39 PM
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The kit we are all referring to is the Z06 kit for an 02-04, maybe 01 also. The flywheel is included in the GM kit. Part #12570808. You are correct that the 06 Vette will have 500 HP+/-. I have not seen a part # for that clutch yet and do not know if it would work on your LS1 F-Body. Maybe someone else around here knows.
Old 08-30-2005, 12:58 PM
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ls6 clutch with aluminum flywheel
Old 08-30-2005, 01:02 PM
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Well, I looked around and there is an active thread where this is being discussed. LS7 kit is PN 24233650. From what I can tell thus far it is a clutch disc and pressure plate. The person trying this install is using an LS2 flywheel. If it works it isn't much more expensive than the LS6 clutch kit. I guess there are several questions including whether or not the slave cyl has changed and whether or not the fingers on the LS7 pressure plate are at the same distance from the crankshaft and clutch housing or whether a shim of some sort will be needed. It's interesting and I'm certain someone here will get it all figured out. It just might be worth waiting until a few people try this before you buy any parts. If the LS7 works, that's probably the way I would go at this point.
Old 08-30-2005, 02:16 PM
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Mas, could you measure the height of the fingers on the LS7 and LS6 PP since you have both? Thanks!


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