FRDnemesis

iTrader: (19)

Okay, here is the short of the story. My car has been on jackstands for the past month. I just put it back together, put it on the ground, start it up, and it will not go into gear. The car starts to lurch forward as if the clutch is not being dis-engaged. (I put a brand new Street-Twin w/ aluminum flywheel in it about 5 months back and also bought a brand new slave cylinder).

When I first pushed the pedal to the floor to start it, the clutch felt fine. As I pumped it a couple of times to try and get it into gear, it would only come up 75% of the way, like it had air in it. So I pumped it slowly and the pedal came back up to the top with only a few pumps. But still would not go into gear.

So I bled it (pump/open the bleed port) No fix.

Then I bled it with the mityvac as someone pumped the pedal. No fix.

With the QD off of the slave, the pedal will not depress, so that tells me that the o-rings in the McCleod Master cylinder are good (no bleed-bye on the piston).

For the hell of it, I flushed the entire system and started over and it still will not go into gear!

Any ideas would be great.

The clutch system was working fine before it sat up for a month on jackstands. Well, other than if it sat for a few days without being driven, I would get the same problem of the pressure bleeding down until I pumped it a few times. There are no leaks that can be seen and the reservoir is always full.

Thanks,
Jeff

Bugsquawsher

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like your Master Is still Screwed up
Because you say that when it would sit for a couple of days it acts up.
Might wanna send that master back to Mcleod and let this rebuild or replace it.
Tom

FRDnemesis

iTrader: (19)

I called Red, at McLeod. He says especially around this time of year in a SUPER humid climate, if a car sits up for a month or more, the clutch discs seize themselves to flywheels. With mine being a Street Twin makes it even more likely. He said he sees this about a dozen times a year.

The fix!!!!

1. Either take it all apart and clean it up

2. or try to shock it somehow by suspending the rear end in the air and starting it while in gear.

I think I'll try the latter....


Have any of you heard of this before? He said it seems to be more of the guys in Texas that have this problem, but It is un-godly humid here in Charleston, SC also.


Jeff

FRDnemesis

iTrader: (19)

Well, I tried to shock it but its damn near impossible when you already have the clutch pushed in to start it anyway.

What I may do is jumper the switch at the clutch pedal to complete the circuit "as if the pedal is depressed", put it in gear and start it. Maybe that will help.


Something that Red mentioned that people should do if your going to let your car sit for a month or more at a time is

cut a piece of wood to the length required to depress your clutch pedal and wedge it down to the drivers seat to release the clutch.

Now keep in mind, this is based on the material that McLeod uses (more specifically on the street twin setup) on their discs, so it may not fall true for anyone elses.


Jeff

FRDnemesis

iTrader: (19)

Well, Red was right!!! I dis-assembled it last night and heres what it looked like

http://www.scfyb.com/forum/showthrea...148#post214148

Both clutch discs were seized to the middle floater flywheel, just like Red (owner of McLeod) said they would be.

So, guys be aware, because you can prevent this as well.


Jeff

Bugsquawsher

iTrader: (1)

Seems to me the best way to take care of that problem would be to stick it in reverse with the Brakes on hard and start the engine.
Settin the car up with a Block of wood jammed up against your seat would Distort your seat, and Put the clutch springs under tension for extended period of time.
Don't sound like a good Idea to me.
Better yet
start it in 4th or 5 gear.

FRDnemesis

iTrader: (19)

I did start it in 4th gear, once. It didn't sound to good. But then again, the big bang I heard may have been when the forward most disc came loose from the main flywheel. Once I took it apart, I saw evidence that it did spin loose on that side.

I do agree with you about the clutch springs being under pressure for an extended period of time. But then again, Red obviously knows what he's talking about, so I'll trust him.

Bugsquawsher

iTrader: (1)

I haven't delt with anyone at Mcleod.
I have heard that they take care of their customers.
I'm not however impressed with there products.
Back when I did clutch jobs for local People , I did this Street twin for a friend.
After a Very short while, I think under 1K miles his clutch was shot.
This was after only a run or two at the track , the rest was on the street.
We tore it down and found that one of the disk had all the friction material Totally Destroyed.
When he called inquire about this , the answer he got was something to the effect that the street twin doesn't like to be slipped.
This thing fell apart under regular easy Driving, Not at the track.
I think it had a defect myself , but that answer really blew me away.
How can he be a tough clutch if it can't handle a little slipping to get you rolling from a start. It is call a STREET twin.
The other thing are those POS masters.
I still have the last one I got in a Drawer at home.
I have never had one of them POS's last more than a couple of weeks.
All I get from them is I'm not Bleeding it right.
Yea. Thats the problem.

When there **** works it works good.
But When it breaks, Well
Its something we did wrong.
Like Puttin in a clutch and then parking the car for a month.

FRDnemesis

iTrader: (19)

I agree with about everything you said. I've had a bad experience in the past with my LT1 McLeod and recently with my LS1 car, I've had a good experience.