T56 Wont go Out Of 4th gear "HELP"
11-28-2005, 09:54 AM
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T56 Wont go Out Of 4th gear "HELP" I did bay from D&D performance
1-upgraded 3/4 steel fork
2- Carbon Blocker Ring 1 to 6
3-Fiber Synchros 1 to 6
and when i speed in 4th ger it's not geting Oute it stik in the 4th
Need help
`
1-upgraded 3/4 steel fork
2- Carbon Blocker Ring 1 to 6
3-Fiber Synchros 1 to 6
and when i speed in 4th ger it's not geting Oute it stik in the 4th
Need help `
11-29-2005, 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by CaliboyTA
did u buy the billet sliders? if not then i believe those are ur problem
11-29-2005, 08:07 AM
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mine did the same thing last summer.mine was the synchro keepers that hold in the snap rings.time to open it up.they now have them in tool steel.mine are the stamped stockers
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11-29-2005, 09:18 AM
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Alot of mis- info here.
-First ,you have most likely over-extended the sleeve(slider) and popped the struts( keys, keepers) out of position and this locks it into 3rd or 4th( depending on which gear you over extend the sleeve. The likely reason is that when you rebuilt the unit you did not re-shim/ check the shim at the input gear. This would allow too much travel of the 3/4 synchronizer sleeve( if there was too little shim). It is also possible the you have excess wear of the shift fork pads - this would have the same affect of added / excessive travel.
-There is no such thing as a fiber synchronizer. There is a carbon -particle lined blocker ring.( for each i-6 position). These are commonly mis-labelled carbon fiber.
- The original struts are a stamped steel piece. There are stronger machined-from -solid aftermarket parts ( billet)to replace them( 3/4 synchro) There are some powdered-metal solid struts from the Corvette T56 for the 1/2 synchro.
-The struts interface with the synchronizer springs ( not snap rings)
- The std. fork pads ( not sliders) are plastic ( engineered nylon composite) . Ther are stronger aftermarket pads that are machied( not molded) but must be epoxied in place.
While it is great to try and help, spewing half -baked mis -information will do exactly the oposite.
-First ,you have most likely over-extended the sleeve(slider) and popped the struts( keys, keepers) out of position and this locks it into 3rd or 4th( depending on which gear you over extend the sleeve. The likely reason is that when you rebuilt the unit you did not re-shim/ check the shim at the input gear. This would allow too much travel of the 3/4 synchronizer sleeve( if there was too little shim). It is also possible the you have excess wear of the shift fork pads - this would have the same affect of added / excessive travel.
-There is no such thing as a fiber synchronizer. There is a carbon -particle lined blocker ring.( for each i-6 position). These are commonly mis-labelled carbon fiber.
- The original struts are a stamped steel piece. There are stronger machined-from -solid aftermarket parts ( billet)to replace them( 3/4 synchro) There are some powdered-metal solid struts from the Corvette T56 for the 1/2 synchro.
-The struts interface with the synchronizer springs ( not snap rings)
- The std. fork pads ( not sliders) are plastic ( engineered nylon composite) . Ther are stronger aftermarket pads that are machied( not molded) but must be epoxied in place.
While it is great to try and help, spewing half -baked mis -information will do exactly the oposite.
11-30-2005, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by calhoon
Alot of mis- info here.
-First ,you have most likely over-extended the sleeve(slider) and popped the struts( keys, keepers) out of position and this locks it into 3rd or 4th( depending on which gear you over extend the sleeve. The likely reason is that when you rebuilt the unit you did not re-shim/ check the shim at the input gear. This would allow too much travel of the 3/4 synchronizer sleeve( if there was too little shim). It is also possible the you have excess wear of the shift fork pads - this would have the same affect of added / excessive travel.
-There is no such thing as a fiber synchronizer. There is a carbon -particle lined blocker ring.( for each i-6 position). These are commonly mis-labelled carbon fiber.
- The original struts are a stamped steel piece. There are stronger machined-from -solid aftermarket parts ( billet)to replace them( 3/4 synchro) There are some powdered-metal solid struts from the Corvette T56 for the 1/2 synchro.
-The struts interface with the synchronizer springs ( not snap rings)
- The std. fork pads ( not sliders) are plastic ( engineered nylon composite) . Ther are stronger aftermarket pads that are machied( not molded) but must be epoxied in place.
While it is great to try and help, spewing half -baked mis -information will do exactly the oposite.
-First ,you have most likely over-extended the sleeve(slider) and popped the struts( keys, keepers) out of position and this locks it into 3rd or 4th( depending on which gear you over extend the sleeve. The likely reason is that when you rebuilt the unit you did not re-shim/ check the shim at the input gear. This would allow too much travel of the 3/4 synchronizer sleeve( if there was too little shim). It is also possible the you have excess wear of the shift fork pads - this would have the same affect of added / excessive travel.
-There is no such thing as a fiber synchronizer. There is a carbon -particle lined blocker ring.( for each i-6 position). These are commonly mis-labelled carbon fiber.
- The original struts are a stamped steel piece. There are stronger machined-from -solid aftermarket parts ( billet)to replace them( 3/4 synchro) There are some powdered-metal solid struts from the Corvette T56 for the 1/2 synchro.
-The struts interface with the synchronizer springs ( not snap rings)
- The std. fork pads ( not sliders) are plastic ( engineered nylon composite) . Ther are stronger aftermarket pads that are machied( not molded) but must be epoxied in place.
While it is great to try and help, spewing half -baked mis -information will do exactly the oposite.
what to do my friend how to do re-shim it ??!!
help me i rebelt for 5 time today Last edited by camaro_SS_81; 11-30-2005 at 05:18 AM.
11-30-2005, 07:40 AM
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You will have to get into the box to get it fixed( or shimmed). There are many sources to help you properly rebuild this . Get a manual( free on line) ands pursue the step -by- step posts available. Shimming is not too tough to do. If you have excessive play in the input( side to side) you have a loose shim condition. Although play is ACTUALLY measured as an in/ out displacement, the side to side play is an indicator without using tools.
Also be sure you have a pilot bearing in good health.
Also be sure you have a pilot bearing in good health.
11-30-2005, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by calhoon
Alot of mis- info here.
-First ,you have most likely over-extended the sleeve(slider) and popped the struts( keys, keepers) out of position and this locks it into 3rd or 4th( depending on which gear you over extend the sleeve. The likely reason is that when you rebuilt the unit you did not re-shim/ check the shim at the input gear. This would allow too much travel of the 3/4 synchronizer sleeve( if there was too little shim). It is also possible the you have excess wear of the shift fork pads - this would have the same affect of added / excessive travel.
-There is no such thing as a fiber synchronizer. There is a carbon -particle lined blocker ring.( for each i-6 position). These are commonly mis-labelled carbon fiber.
- The original struts are a stamped steel piece. There are stronger machined-from -solid aftermarket parts ( billet)to replace them( 3/4 synchro) There are some powdered-metal solid struts from the Corvette T56 for the 1/2 synchro.
-The struts interface with the synchronizer springs ( not snap rings)
- The std. fork pads ( not sliders) are plastic ( engineered nylon composite) . Ther are stronger aftermarket pads that are machied( not molded) but must be epoxied in place.
While it is great to try and help, spewing half -baked mis -information will do exactly the oposite.
-First ,you have most likely over-extended the sleeve(slider) and popped the struts( keys, keepers) out of position and this locks it into 3rd or 4th( depending on which gear you over extend the sleeve. The likely reason is that when you rebuilt the unit you did not re-shim/ check the shim at the input gear. This would allow too much travel of the 3/4 synchronizer sleeve( if there was too little shim). It is also possible the you have excess wear of the shift fork pads - this would have the same affect of added / excessive travel.
-There is no such thing as a fiber synchronizer. There is a carbon -particle lined blocker ring.( for each i-6 position). These are commonly mis-labelled carbon fiber.
- The original struts are a stamped steel piece. There are stronger machined-from -solid aftermarket parts ( billet)to replace them( 3/4 synchro) There are some powdered-metal solid struts from the Corvette T56 for the 1/2 synchro.
-The struts interface with the synchronizer springs ( not snap rings)
- The std. fork pads ( not sliders) are plastic ( engineered nylon composite) . Ther are stronger aftermarket pads that are machied( not molded) but must be epoxied in place.
While it is great to try and help, spewing half -baked mis -information will do exactly the oposite.
11-30-2005, 03:18 PM
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You will need to disassemble and check the 3/4 fork pads for wear( you already have an iron fork so thats ok) and change them if they are smeared/ worn/broken. Check the condition of the clutch teeth on the input gear. Ceck the cluych teeth on the synchronizer sleeve( slider) - Change these parts if the teeth are blunted. Re- assemble the trans being sure there is not too much end play at the input gear. It should roll over but not "wobble" as it does so.
11-30-2005, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by calhoon
You will need to disassemble and check the 3/4 fork pads for wear( you already have an iron fork so thats ok) and change them if they are smeared/ worn/broken. Check the condition of the clutch teeth on the input gear. Ceck the cluych teeth on the synchronizer sleeve( slider) - Change these parts if the teeth are blunted. Re- assemble the trans being sure there is not too much end play at the input gear. It should roll over but not "wobble" as it does so.
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