bulletLS1

Time to rebuild:
usually with my cars whenever I rebuild the clutch I go to a lathe shop to make some thin (1/16 Th) pass at the back of the flywheel, and another in the front just to touch the bolt holes, but this one goes all the way to the theet ring. this frees up about a couple or three pounds of rotating mass at the tip of the disc (where that maters most), is my cheapo way to a lighter flywheel trying not to make a weaker fwl.

in my case with the camaro flywheel I saw a lot (an deep) balancing holes in one side of the disc.
havent put the wheel in a balancing machine. (always do)
before proceed w/ the cut.

* does the flywheel has to be neutrally balanced?
* it is possible that my original flywheel when cast had some bubble, that needed alot of counterwheight?

* if needed how much "unbalance" weight is needed and at what angle.


THANKS A LOT!

tici

iTrader: (1)

Cast flywheels have to be balanced, much more than billet flywheels.

I asked a local shop and they said they first balance the flywheel than bolt the pressure plate on it and then balance it again.

The tolerance for this kind of clutch is 3 grams. Mine was out of 2 grams but I told them to get it to zero.

On flywheels you usually remove material (holes)
On pressure plates you usually add material (rivets)

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

LS engines are internally balanced, so ther eis no weight required on the balancer or on the flywheel. From the factory the flywheel and clutch assembly are zero balanced together so that will explain the holes in your flywheel.

Do whatever it is your going to do with the flywheel, then balance your new clutch assembly together with your flywheel to zero balance.

Andrew

bulletLS1

Thanks guys.....

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Your welcome. What kind of car are you working on?

What type of racing are you going to be doing with it?

Andrew

bulletLS1

In working in my 98 camaro T-tops, RED.
rebuilding after a rod broke ON STARTUP!!!!
I finished with the "internal engine" sextion, now moved to the "external".
I now have:
OEM ZO6 block, internally polished (I tried!) to remove sharp edges and sand from the casting.
my crank, deburred, and polished.
OEM ZO6 rod-piston-rings. deburred pistons, balanced weight, removed sharp edges from rings.
OEM (center bolt) gasket set for heads
port, polished, shimmed oil pump, tried to do same treatment to the block in oil passages (break the 90deg sharp turns)
clevite 77 hi perf rod bearings std gap (don`t remember)
fed mogul, race crank bearings @0.0015gap
very early CNC stage II heads, 10.8-1
very early cut lunati cam (218-227/116)
ls1 intake (lots-a-money!!!, dont have!)
long tube headdres ( the new ones from summit $230)
free catback (no sound limitations here!)
trying to hak a ls1edit program!!!!
POS 4.11 rear end (made of chocolate!) I have broken 5 RE, trying to salvage a BIG 10 bolt from a Z71
port and polish OEM TB
port, polish & cut OEM AF
OEM f injectors (because they are the bigger ones)
some other Free mods I cant remember!!!

RACING?
well, Im done with racing my daly driver, I do not like drag racing. but do I like to kill porsches, bimmers, some hipercharged ricer once in a while....
and in road race, my brother race a lot in a Type R integra modified to hell, and hes beating in this country, even gets in the middle of race corvettes!

I race motorcycles thou, Im currently having a hard time keeping up with the cbr 1000, I race a RC51 (V-2, 1000) and I like it because "its different" whenever Im in the track my friends tell "HMMM----the greyhound is out!!!!" LMAO!!!!

unfortunatelly I do not have a site to show my progress and show pics....

http://www.moti7.nstemp.com/Galerias...s/DSC02074.htm

http://www.moti7.nstemp.com/Galerias...s/DSC02022.htm

from left to right, my father, a friend, ME!

bulletLS1

Did anybody see the pics....

I did put the flyweel in a balancing machine (tyre shop) apears that the lathe pass "balanced" the wheel somewhat because the machine tell me to ADD weight (full 1 ounce) in the area of the balancing holes WTF!?

this week I will definetelly have the machine an a drill press at my disposal to play with... wathever combination of diameter to fool the machine I will hope to drill enough to have 0 balance...

tici

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure if a tire balancing machine is accurate enough.
Will it show correctionsof 1 gram? It should...
Tire machine always ADD weight or you'll have to drinn holes in the wheels!
Just reduce weight (drill) exactly on the opposite side.

By the way... nice girls you have over there!

wayne1

How long have you been racing motorcycles? I am trying to get into the sport, but don't have a lot of funds. This next summer I will attend an amature racing event in Pheonix, AZ, where they have track time with some schooling. cool pics!!

bulletLS1

I know the tyre balancer will not have greater accuracy of say 1/4 oz. but for practical purposes it will be better that the 1 oz I have right now.
the machine is in a bussy place, so I did fumble with ti for only a couple of minutes but in any combination of dia, or position against the machine axle (I rotated the flwl 90, 120 and odd number deg keeping the machine axle stationary) and all readings where exactly at the same fwl spot.
thats why im sure i can balance my flywl.

in regards to motorcycle racing, is definetelly a lot of fun, is a lot cheapper that cars, definetelly go to a racing school, the contenents are of great use... the friends you make will last a lot because most of them are at the same level of you, same interests...
before you go to a track day or a track school, (I assume you have all the equipment... 1piece leathers, race boots, back protector, NEW helmet shield.)
also go around your bike and change oil-filter (use R-4 castrol oil), put new fresh brake pads, (this is expensive) DO NOT use your street tyres, buy NEW FRESH michelin pilot race... this tyres are very good, VERY good, they have a round profile and they make the motorcycle very neutral and easy going.... I also can recomend the Pirelly diablo supercorsa, but they are triangular profile and the bike feels like its going to fall in the turns, so its either full radical lean (dragging, i mean REALLY dragging the knee close to the fairing, or accelerating hard STRAIGHT....)
if you want also some crash protectors for the bike (I dont have), remove all blinkers stop lights, front lights. the slach in the chain must be in the "Slack side" (not tight)
your suspensions must be HARD AS HELL... if you can use av-gas (NOT JET GAS DOHHH!)
and a lot of other things but the thread is becoming longer and not appealing to read....
greetings from Guatemala (a lot of sun WOHOOOO!)

bulletLS1

I did my balancing with the machine,
after some fiddling and some drilling, I brought to the shop`my bench drill, after a few minutes I did drilled some holes and the balanced showed 0 in 14 inches of dia, then finally in "tricking "the machine for say an 8inch wheel it showed a 1/4 oz imbalance, in where I was drilling... little bit more drilling and then the fwl did not show any imbalance in the machine in any combination of diameters...
then the pressure plate installed.
it showed only 1/4 oz off exactly where a rivet was installed... blew the rivet and voila! the whole rotating assembly was 0 again.
BTW here the cost for balancing both pieces was $600 (!!!!) 350 for the pressure plate, 250 for the fwl...... NO WAY!!!!!!