NoGamesLS1

iTrader: (16)

My clutch pedal is starting to stick and not return all the way. On my way home today I was really gettin on it and it stuck to the floor and I had no clutch. I had to wait 2-3 seconds before I was able to shift again and it was still on the floor. I just installed a ls6 clutch/pp, fidanza aluminum fw, and a new slave (the 01-02 style) about oh maybe 5k miles ago. I put everything back together and my rear main seal was leaking worse than it was before so I had to take it all apart the next day. When I took it apart I wiped down the disc, it didn't look like there was any oil on it. I also broke it in for 5-600 miles. My car is pretty much stock right now. Just lid, free mods, 1.85 rr, and a slp maf. Any ideas? Might I need to bleed my clutch again? Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Steve

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

That is just a crappy feature of a weaker clutch...don't do it too much unless you plan on replacing it.

If you bleed it that might help. have you considered the drill mod?

NoGamesLS1

iTrader: (16)

Ya, I think I might end up doing that drill mod. Especially since I just bought the asa hotcam......thats going to rip my clutch a new ******* probally

NoGamesLS1

iTrader: (16)

I was thinking about the spec but I have heard alot of bad things about them.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Break them in properly and you shouldnt have to bad a time with them. Hell that is what i run! i love it and you can beat the **** out of it. sometimes I worry more about the beat-down that my 10 bolt is receiving over what is happening to the built t-56 and spec 3.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

yeah, you can rip that clutch a new ******* on a stock cam!

GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

As stated before, re-bleeding it may help, but another thing to try when you have it apart doing the drill mod is to try covering the exposed portions of the braided steel hydrolic line with some 3/8th fuel line. You can just cut a slit in one side of the rubber fuel line and slip it over the braided line. It will help to insulate the line against heat. If you notice, the line runs right past your headers, and there isn't a heat shield covering it until it gets down further into the trans tunnel. I think the line can sometimes gets super-heated by the headers and it causes the fluid to break down or even boil. I did this to mine and I haven't had it stick to the floor since then. Of course, I also did the drill mod at the same time, so who knows what actually fixed it. I'd like to think is was a little bit of both.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

That is actually a really good idea. I never did the drill mod though. I just got the ole' Mcleod adjustable master.

GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

Thanks. I actually can't take credit for it though. I think I read about someone else on here doing it and having good results, so I tried it as well.

Robinator

iTrader: (1)

check my thread buddy