Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Well I noticed a week ago that my clutch engagement on this cluch was starting to get lower than normal. After the install and the system was completely bled, the clutch engagement was about 2" off the floor. Last week it was about 1", now it is right off the floor, maybe 1/2". It it hard to shift into gears expecially at higher RPMs. It has always been easy to shift before. The cltuch feels like its dragging. Anyone had this happen to them? The only solution I can think of is to shim the TO bearing, or get an McLeod adjustable master. Thanks!

roadrash9r

iTrader: (2)

Im having the same problem!!!!!! Ive bled it by textralias method and by the mity vac and it did help but it is still dragging. Pete said to look at the Pressure plate bolts to see if they backed out. thats what im going to do next. New Adj master new slave Im at a loss too, but textralia will be more than happy to help you out. They called me within 15 minutes of sending them an email. Look for a post by pete and email him great people he called me on christmas eve from austrailia. A++++

TNTramair

iTrader: (15)

i havent had any issues with mine...hope you guys get it resolved.

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

I had the same problem... Fisrt I built an adjustable master from a spare stocker and it worked great until the rod got bent. So I built another one but had to pull the tranny out so I just put a .100 shim behind the slave and now it works great with the master at it's factory setting.

lsp408

any of you with problems done drill mod???

roadrash9r

iTrader: (2)

nope no drill mod here. was told it was not needed for a tex clutch

roadrash9r

iTrader: (2)

Ttt...

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

The drill mod would/should not cause this problem. I think it might be time for a shim. I am thinking about going with a McLeod master, but Tex says they aren't needed and many people who get them still have engagement problems.

1BADAIR

iTrader: (1)

pull the trans and check the PP bolts. Torque to spec and use RED loctite. As it loosens the pedal gets closer to the floor and gets hard to get into gear. I have fixed two other cars besides mine for the same problem

1BADAIR

iTrader: (1)

An adjustable master isn't a good fix for most issues.
If you install a shim and the pedal is high, the slave will be bottomed out and holding the pressure plate no matter where the pedal height adjusted with the master.
If you use an adjustable to fix a low pedal then you still could have and issue with full disengagment even the you can get the pedal where you want it.

1RADWS6

iTrader: (1)

I have the same problem (pulled the tranny and everything was tight) and the clutch only has about 800 miles on it, plus I lost a dowel pin through my bell housing . I think the fingers on the PP have slightly bent causing loss of travel distance (I also replaced my master with a ram 510 and it didn't even make a difference), I have tried calling and sending e mails to Pete and Jeff since before christmas and still no response. I'm thinking I should have gone with another brand now. I will and try and call them again today but starting to loose confidence in them.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Usually they pull through for us LS1 guys. I will definitly have to inspect the clutch in June when I remove the motor, unless the clutch fails sooner than that, but I dont plan on putting more than 300 miles on it before now and June.

TNTramair

iTrader: (15)

dont lose faith just yet...pete has helped alot of guys out on this board...you have to realize that there is a 8 hour or so differance in time zones...keep tryin, im sure he'll get back to you.

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

If the slave is bottomed out the tranny would not bolt up without forcing it in with the bolts, because you would have to slightly compress the PP when intsalling the tranny if this were the case.

Once you tear into the hydrolics on these cars you really start to see how everything works. When I pulled mine apart my slave could still be depresed by hand. This tells me that the pressure plate is not compressing the slave and has a little more travel left in it (mine had alot). Shiming the slave moves the slave closer which will allow the slave to compress the PP more while using the same amount of travle it was capable of before shimming. All you do with a shim is take advantage of the "wasted travel" in the slave.

Now that you have the slave shimmed up the the PP you still have a little more travel you can get out of it, if needed of course, depending how much shim you used will determine this. The stock master is not capable of supplying enough fluid to the slave for the slave to reach the end of it's travle. So by increasing the amount of fluid the master can send to the slave (adjustable master) you will increase the travel of the slave. Of course the slave can only extend so far, until the seal pops out and you loose fluid (over extend).

Both of these methods are fine, and really the only ways of fixing engagment problems on our cars as long as everything else is in good working order. Shiming the clutch is hit or miss most of the time as it's hard to tell how the shims will effect you particular setup. Therefore making it hard to figure out just how much shim you will need without trial and error. Adjustable master cylinders are really the "better fix" as it is often much easier to change and adjust a master than it is to drop the tranny and shim the slave. Using an adjustable master only increases the amount of fluid it can push through to the slave. So you will not have problems with slight disengagment using this method, as all the fluid returns to the master when the clutch engages (pedal released). Also as the clutch wears you may find your engagment point moving down the pedal travel. This is another plus of the adjustable master as you can adjust with the wear.

I recomend using both of these methods. Get it close with shims and then find tune it with the master. I got lucky with mine and got the shims perfect for my setup and don't even need the master, but I still have it incase.

roadrash9r

iTrader: (2)

Mine was the Pressure plate. Exact same problem. only one bolt was backing out and it threw everything off. I tried everything else first and nothing made a difference. Bleeding made a little but thats cause I learned how to bleed it correctly. Pete from textralia told me to look for the bolts backing out. He said its very uncommon but it does happen. I attribute mine to the paint under the bolt heads. With that said textralia is a great company and pete will call you personaly. After tighting the bolts to 63ftlbs, removing the paint under the bolt heads and using tons of locktite I hope it wont happen again. So far so good and the pedal starts to engage half way now.

Plan B

Hi 1RADWS6, I haven't actually received your emails, you can email me directly on textralia@ii.net or just PM me in here..... We'll get you sorted no problem. I'll flick you a PM with my cell number in the mean time so we can talk.

Cheers

Pete.

Plan B

Ferocity02,

If it's been gradual I'd certainly not drive the car until check out what roadrash9r just said.

Pete

kidkl

I noticed mine does the same thing, except it was fine until it got cold out. Since then when I start my car the engaugment point is almost at the floor. It gets a little better as the motor warms up. Then if I row through the gears ~3-4 times once the motor is warm the engaugement point is back to where it should be and it drives fine. Im thinking about getting that hi temp dot3 break fluid and swapping the fluid out becuase mine seems to be heat related with it driving like **** when its cold.