ssfast99

iTrader: (3)

hey guys does anyone else have trouble shifting the car at wide open throttle like the clutch wont disengage. someone told me when you start making power the hydraulic system is to weak to build adaquite pressure and therefore it wont release right. does anyone know about this and if the adjustable master cylinder would correct it

screaminbird

i have had the same problem since i put my centerforce in im now inthe midst of taking it apart and replacing the slave as well as the flywheel clutch and to bearing ill let u know if it fixed the shifting problem but im leaning towards a bad slave because i know they had problems with it when the dealership put it in.

ssfast99

iTrader: (3)

well my slave is the new upgrade from GM and i would not use a centerforce sense the last dual friction i had blew up on me while i was driving.

IVRedZ28LS1

iTrader: (3)

My car is is a 98 Z. With CF dual frition and short throw shifter. Driving in the city it shifts fine but when I hit the track and shift at 6000-6500 it has a delay maybe about a second or two before it goes in to the next gear. I will be upgrading all the hydralics,doing the drill mod and installing a spec 3. Also a Pro 5.0 with either a UMI SS or LSS is going in.

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

Same problem here so frustrating that I had temporarily stopped racing my car. My friend and I just put in a SPEC 5 and McLeod bell housing and he is rebuilding my transmission. So hopefully no more slow high speed shifts.

Flash99

iTrader: (48)

I have a Spec 2+ now, but I have an LS7 Clutch coming as I type this. When you start making ALOT of power, your gonna need a very strong clutch, and really GOOD hydraulics to keep the T56 going strong. You may want to send your tranny to T56rebuilds. I'm ordering one thats been braised etc. More power = more broken things, along with a rear end, then I should be set.

richieg

iTrader: (1)

running a dual friction on factory hydraulics, I had the same problem, shifting above 4700rpms was pretty tough. I did a clutch change recently, ran with another dual friction setup, a new flywheel, ram master & ram slave & drill mod. Now I don't have that problem anymore. Shifts fine at whatever rpm I'm at.

Will Baty

richieg,

Please call our tech line (800) 932-5882 ask for Roger Warner ext. 32. The factory hydraulics has given every clutch manufacture nothing but problems including the OE clutch. We have made several changes to our clutches to get them to work with the factory hydraulics.

Ssfast99, We did have a batch of bad facings do you still have the old parts? Sorry for the problems please call our tech line to see if we can still do anything to help.

Best regards,

Will Baty,
Centerforce Clutches

richieg

iTrader: (1)

left a message for Roger.

Another thing I forgot to mention that might help people. . . a while back I made a thread detailing my last clutch install. In it I stated that the cause the problems that made me change the clutch was do to an exhaust leak near the hydraulic line. The flange on the cat had warped and was blowing like a torch directly onto the line. I waited a little bit for textrailia to come out with there aftermarket hydraulic line, but it's not here yet, and it looked a bit pricey too. So I just drilled out my factory line and re-used it. At the time of my clutch & hydraulics install, I also switched from factory manifolds to mac mid headers with ory. These things get hot, and are very close to the hydraulic line. So out with the jegg's catalog to the exhaust cooling section. I wrapped the headers where they bolt up to the y as far up as I could reach, (roughly 15 inches worth). I then put some heat shielding split loom around the hydraulic line and used the fiberglass tape around the loom. I supose one day I'll bother with making a better line.

AW794

iTrader: (7)

On a 99 TA WS6 with maybe 310 to the wheels...
I have the same problem. New textrailia clutch, flywheel, PP, master, drill mod, slave, TO bearing, needle bearing, pro 5.0, and rebuilt T56.

Would air in the system cause problems like mentioned above? I have what appears to be a "firm" pedal.

Maybe engagement issues?

Think i need to shim it?

Anyone have an opinion?

Thanks

kidkl

If you lightly push down on the pedal (like just barley rest your foot on it) how far does it move before you get resistance? If its about an inch or 2 you still need to bleed. I have 0 issues on mine and the pedal moves ~1cm before I get resistance.

Before the clutch was propperly bleed I would get the same pause in the higher RPMS while trying to shift.

AW794

iTrader: (7)

yeah its about a inch or 2, kidkl. What method did you use to bleed?

Tobynine9

iTrader: (17)

Question for y'all that have already done the drill mod: The size bit recommended (1/8 I think) is actually larger than the outermost orifice of that line, do I need to drill that whole hole larger? When I had the clutch/slave apart, I did drill out some sort of restriction but it was inside the hose a little ways and was much smaller than the 1/8 bit recommended. However, I still get the funky clutch actuation after a few hard shifts climbing through the gears.

kidkl

When we bled the system we used the bench bleeding method and about 1/2 a large bottle of brake fluid. Other methods people have had luck with is putting a vacum on the line and letting it draw in fluid aka the mighty vac method. I have also heard of people putting an adapter on to the slave bleader and forcing fluid up to the resivor. But anyway you choose to bleed it you should get it so that the pedal has very little free movement.

One thing on my car the stock master was aparently going bad on it with ~36k on it. When the car was cold the pedal had ~2" of movement in it, it was hard to get into gear especially reverse. I sometimes had to "pump up" the pedal to get reverse to work. Then slowsly as the motor warmed up and I drove around the pedal would loose more and more of the free play. Usually after ~15min and a couple hard accelerations I would get noticibly stiffer and the engagment point would move way up on the pedal (like from the bottom of the pedal to almost the top). At that point it would drive like stock again.

Replacing the stock master with a new stock GM fixed that issue. As near as we could figure was that the seals on the old one were starting to go and when it was cold it would let fluid bypass the master. As it and the fluid got warmer the seals expanded ever so slightly and started sealing properly once again.

Flash99

iTrader: (48)

I've changed both the master and the slave with 01+ hydraulics and havent had any issues with a spec 2+ clutch. I'm going to the LS7 Clutch soon, but my pedal is quite firm and the clutch engages wonderfully since the drill mod and upgrades.

AW794

iTrader: (7)

I bench bled mine when i did the drill mod, but i think some air still got in.