Spec Stage III clutch installation doc
01-29-2006, 12:30 AM
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Spec Stage III clutch installation doc Does anyone know where I can find a copy of a SPEC stage III clutch installation document online? I just bought the kit online and it didn't come with any sort of instructions.
Thanks,
- Fred.
Thanks,
- Fred.
01-29-2006, 04:48 AM
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Can't help you there, but I can give you the torque specs for the bolts: Flywheel to Crank 74 Ft/lbs. Pressure plate to flywheel 54ft/lbs Torque in a star patern just like you would your wheels. Make sure that you can EASILY remove/insert the the clutch allignment tool.
There is a howto that you can follow at: http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ch_install.htm
Your pressure plate and flywheel should of been balanced as a group. You should look over both *VERY* carefully to see if there are any marks showing where you should line them up, if they were shipped as an assembled unit you should mark both tape or sharpy or something. If you just bought the pressure plate and the clutch you should get them nutrual balanced before install, not to mention get the old flywheel turned.
Also, as a side note from what I've read alot of people have posted that the balancing is not so good on their kits (or maybee those with just the light weight flywheel?) and after the install have a vibration at high rpms/on decel that was not there before. It maybe worth the time for you to take it to a machine shop or some other place and have them check the balance, this could save you from having to pull it all again.
Also, if it is out of balance and it is vibrating please don't continue to drive the car, bearing wear in both the motor and tranny can and will occur as well as the possibilty of completly dicking over your transmission. (A guy I know did this and lets just say after about a month or two the main shaft and the counter shift of his tranny were in multiple peices).
Another thing alot of people who buy after market clutches install a "shim" behind the salve cylnder because for whatever reason the stock hydrolics will not fully disengauge the clutch.
I would also recomend that you "bench bleed" your setup, this makes it imho the easiest way to get all the air out of the system. Also since you have the master out of the car doing this method it would be the perfect time to do the drill mod: http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...r_cylinder.htm
I bleive that they also cover the bench bleeding method in that how to.
The other popular method seems to be the mitty vac method outlined by a GM TSB here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/437757-gm-tsb-01-07-31-002a-m-t-improved-hydraulic-clutch-bleeding-procedure.html
There is a howto that you can follow at: http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ch_install.htm
Your pressure plate and flywheel should of been balanced as a group. You should look over both *VERY* carefully to see if there are any marks showing where you should line them up, if they were shipped as an assembled unit you should mark both tape or sharpy or something. If you just bought the pressure plate and the clutch you should get them nutrual balanced before install, not to mention get the old flywheel turned.
Also, as a side note from what I've read alot of people have posted that the balancing is not so good on their kits (or maybee those with just the light weight flywheel?) and after the install have a vibration at high rpms/on decel that was not there before. It maybe worth the time for you to take it to a machine shop or some other place and have them check the balance, this could save you from having to pull it all again.
Also, if it is out of balance and it is vibrating please don't continue to drive the car, bearing wear in both the motor and tranny can and will occur as well as the possibilty of completly dicking over your transmission. (A guy I know did this and lets just say after about a month or two the main shaft and the counter shift of his tranny were in multiple peices).
Another thing alot of people who buy after market clutches install a "shim" behind the salve cylnder because for whatever reason the stock hydrolics will not fully disengauge the clutch.
I would also recomend that you "bench bleed" your setup, this makes it imho the easiest way to get all the air out of the system. Also since you have the master out of the car doing this method it would be the perfect time to do the drill mod: http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...r_cylinder.htm
I bleive that they also cover the bench bleeding method in that how to.
The other popular method seems to be the mitty vac method outlined by a GM TSB here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/437757-gm-tsb-01-07-31-002a-m-t-improved-hydraulic-clutch-bleeding-procedure.html
Last edited by kidkl; 01-29-2006 at 04:59 AM.
01-29-2006, 07:58 AM
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Thanks man... appreciate the help.
I got the clutch and flywheel as a kit from Spec, so I didn't take it to be balanced. They came with good marking spots... so I've installed them as is. I'm yet to put the car back together to see if there's serious vibration.
I got the clutch and flywheel as a kit from Spec, so I didn't take it to be balanced. They came with good marking spots... so I've installed them as is. I'm yet to put the car back together to see if there's serious vibration.
