Textralia OZ700 clutch destroyed in my car. Bad clutch or install?
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UPDATE #2: Textralia OZ700 clutch not the problem with my car. Was the install
UPDATE #2: Well, I'll start with the imporant part... my clutch problem was due to installation stupidity, NOT the clutch.
Here's what I got: I installed a McCloud adjustable master cylinder in the hopes that was the prob. I had to adjst the cylinder arm almost full extended, and then the clutch grabbed near the floor (see the problem here), and a nasty rattling was heard from the trans. So....pulled the transmission.
Everything looked good, expect the throwout bearing front plastic lip was a little chewed up. No problem there, as I have a new slave cylinder and throwout bearing that I bought in case that was the problem. (I'm going to install them for the heck of it...since it's already apart.
Anyhow, here was the problem: I DID A TORQUE DRAG CHECK ON THE PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS. FOUR OF THE BOLTS HAD LESS THAN 10LBS OF TORQUE ON THEM, WHILE THE OTHER TWO WERE IN THE 40LB RANGE. SO, I PULLED A PRESSURE PLATE BOLT TO SEE IF THE INSTALLER HAD USED LOCK-TITE. NO. OH, IT GETS BETTER. I SAW ALL THE BOLTS WERE COATED IN A SILVERY GREY SUBSTANCE. IT WAS ANTI-SEIZE COMPOUND!! NO WONDER THEY BACKED OUT!!!! SO, THAT WAS THE PROBLEM. I started putting the new ARP bolts in (with red lock-tite) and began thinking.....if these people installed the pressure plate bolts with anti-seize, what about the flywheel bolts? Makes me sick just thinking of that. So....tomorow I'll be pulling the clutch and replacing the flywheel bolts with some more ARP ones, as the trans is still on the ground under the car. I just hope the pressure plate didn't warp from this. I won't know that till it's all back together.
Also, thanks to Pete for checking up on my today and fielding my phone calls. Your customer care is above the rest.
AS A LAST NOTE, I PUBLICALLY APOLOGIZE TO FEROCITY02. I WAS SNAPPY WITH YOU, BRO...AND YOU HIT THE NAIL ON THE HEAD. AND I APPRECIATED YOUR PICTURE SHOWING ME WHERE THE SLAVE BLEEDER IS LOCATED.
AND FOR 67VETTE....WELL, GUESS YOU WERE WRONG. IT DEFINETLY WASN'T THE SLAVE CYLINDER. BEST STICK TO THE OLD VETTES AND LEAVE THE COMPLICATED STUFF TO THE BIG BOYS.
UPDATE ON MY PROBLEM: I sent an E-mail to Textralia right after writing this post, describing my problem in the same way. I received a call from Peter at Textralia today and received an in-depth detail of what to check to isolate the master cylinder, the pressure plate bolts backing off, or a defective clutch or throwout bearing. Wow. I've never received such customer service from any company. Peter went on to tell me that we'd work through this setback, even if it meant them sending me another pressure plate. Damn. That's just unbelievable.
Bottomline, for whatever reason my clutch isn't working, their customer service and customer care are untouchable! I'm still amazed by this. I'll keep everyone posted when I finally get the final verdict in.
I might be the unfortunate "pioneer", but I had a complete and total failure of my Textralia OZ700 clutch. And I mean it's F'd up.
Not only is the clutch all but destroyed, but I'm also wondering if I might have jacked the trans or a shift fork too. Right now my car will only go into forward gears when the engine is off. Reverse is totally out of the question. It will not go into reverse, no matter how many times I press the clutch pedal or beat on the shifter. Once the car is on, forget shifting gears. It's locked into whatever gear is selected, regardless of clutch position. The car has to be turned off to deselect a gear and reselect another.
Here's the disgusting part. I'm running a Textralia OZ700 clutch with matched and balanced flywheel. The clutch has all of 4K miles on it and ihas only been in the car for 5 months. It has seen some dragstrip time. I logged around 30 launches off-idle on STREET TIRES (with wheelspin), and about 5 launches on Mickey Thompson ET street radials with a 3K stall. The car has a TR224 cam, LT's and headers and is putting down 375RWHP and 363RWTQ (or about 435HP at the flywheel). I also have a UMI torque arm, LCA's, and panhard rod. These mods definetly should not be enough to ruin this clutch (which cost me well over $1K shipped, I might add ).
The clutch was professionally installed by a LS1 performance shop in Honolulu Hawaii in August of 2005. So, I don't know whether the clutch was defective, or if the shop overlooked something when installing it. Either way, it's not only malfunctioning, but might have jacked the trans up too!
Needless to say I'm not happy. It began to show signs of problems a month ago, as I noticed the revs were slow to come down when if the gas pedal was pressed with the car in neutral. At the time I thought it was the IAC sensor. Nope. This last week it began to miss 2nd gear shifts on the street, even at low RPM's (like under 2.5K). It went from that to totally F'd up three drag runs later this evening.
I'm going to call Textralia Monday and see if they honor their 12 month/12K mile warranty on the clutch, as it was installed by a professional shop. $1K+ for 4K miles and 6 months of life is unacceptable. I'm also doing my own install this next time too.
So....possible it was a bad install......or this clutch isn't all that it's hyped up to be. Either way, I have a broke car in front of my house and am out a serious chunk of change for something that I thought was top quality.
Here's what I got: I installed a McCloud adjustable master cylinder in the hopes that was the prob. I had to adjst the cylinder arm almost full extended, and then the clutch grabbed near the floor (see the problem here), and a nasty rattling was heard from the trans. So....pulled the transmission.
Everything looked good, expect the throwout bearing front plastic lip was a little chewed up. No problem there, as I have a new slave cylinder and throwout bearing that I bought in case that was the problem. (I'm going to install them for the heck of it...since it's already apart.
Anyhow, here was the problem: I DID A TORQUE DRAG CHECK ON THE PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS. FOUR OF THE BOLTS HAD LESS THAN 10LBS OF TORQUE ON THEM, WHILE THE OTHER TWO WERE IN THE 40LB RANGE. SO, I PULLED A PRESSURE PLATE BOLT TO SEE IF THE INSTALLER HAD USED LOCK-TITE. NO. OH, IT GETS BETTER. I SAW ALL THE BOLTS WERE COATED IN A SILVERY GREY SUBSTANCE. IT WAS ANTI-SEIZE COMPOUND!! NO WONDER THEY BACKED OUT!!!! SO, THAT WAS THE PROBLEM. I started putting the new ARP bolts in (with red lock-tite) and began thinking.....if these people installed the pressure plate bolts with anti-seize, what about the flywheel bolts? Makes me sick just thinking of that. So....tomorow I'll be pulling the clutch and replacing the flywheel bolts with some more ARP ones, as the trans is still on the ground under the car. I just hope the pressure plate didn't warp from this. I won't know that till it's all back together.
Also, thanks to Pete for checking up on my today and fielding my phone calls. Your customer care is above the rest.
AS A LAST NOTE, I PUBLICALLY APOLOGIZE TO FEROCITY02. I WAS SNAPPY WITH YOU, BRO...AND YOU HIT THE NAIL ON THE HEAD. AND I APPRECIATED YOUR PICTURE SHOWING ME WHERE THE SLAVE BLEEDER IS LOCATED.
AND FOR 67VETTE....WELL, GUESS YOU WERE WRONG. IT DEFINETLY WASN'T THE SLAVE CYLINDER. BEST STICK TO THE OLD VETTES AND LEAVE THE COMPLICATED STUFF TO THE BIG BOYS.
UPDATE ON MY PROBLEM: I sent an E-mail to Textralia right after writing this post, describing my problem in the same way. I received a call from Peter at Textralia today and received an in-depth detail of what to check to isolate the master cylinder, the pressure plate bolts backing off, or a defective clutch or throwout bearing. Wow. I've never received such customer service from any company. Peter went on to tell me that we'd work through this setback, even if it meant them sending me another pressure plate. Damn. That's just unbelievable.
Bottomline, for whatever reason my clutch isn't working, their customer service and customer care are untouchable! I'm still amazed by this. I'll keep everyone posted when I finally get the final verdict in.
I might be the unfortunate "pioneer", but I had a complete and total failure of my Textralia OZ700 clutch. And I mean it's F'd up.
Not only is the clutch all but destroyed, but I'm also wondering if I might have jacked the trans or a shift fork too. Right now my car will only go into forward gears when the engine is off. Reverse is totally out of the question. It will not go into reverse, no matter how many times I press the clutch pedal or beat on the shifter. Once the car is on, forget shifting gears. It's locked into whatever gear is selected, regardless of clutch position. The car has to be turned off to deselect a gear and reselect another.
Here's the disgusting part. I'm running a Textralia OZ700 clutch with matched and balanced flywheel. The clutch has all of 4K miles on it and ihas only been in the car for 5 months. It has seen some dragstrip time. I logged around 30 launches off-idle on STREET TIRES (with wheelspin), and about 5 launches on Mickey Thompson ET street radials with a 3K stall. The car has a TR224 cam, LT's and headers and is putting down 375RWHP and 363RWTQ (or about 435HP at the flywheel). I also have a UMI torque arm, LCA's, and panhard rod. These mods definetly should not be enough to ruin this clutch (which cost me well over $1K shipped, I might add ).
The clutch was professionally installed by a LS1 performance shop in Honolulu Hawaii in August of 2005. So, I don't know whether the clutch was defective, or if the shop overlooked something when installing it. Either way, it's not only malfunctioning, but might have jacked the trans up too!
Needless to say I'm not happy. It began to show signs of problems a month ago, as I noticed the revs were slow to come down when if the gas pedal was pressed with the car in neutral. At the time I thought it was the IAC sensor. Nope. This last week it began to miss 2nd gear shifts on the street, even at low RPM's (like under 2.5K). It went from that to totally F'd up three drag runs later this evening.
I'm going to call Textralia Monday and see if they honor their 12 month/12K mile warranty on the clutch, as it was installed by a professional shop. $1K+ for 4K miles and 6 months of life is unacceptable. I'm also doing my own install this next time too.
So....possible it was a bad install......or this clutch isn't all that it's hyped up to be. Either way, I have a broke car in front of my house and am out a serious chunk of change for something that I thought was top quality.
Last edited by Schantin; 02-04-2006 at 09:02 PM. Reason: Updated information.
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It sounds like the clutch is not releasing. That could be due to a slave cylinder failure (Textralia simply supplies a new stock GM part just to make sure it gets replaced), or a hydraulic leak, or pressure plate bolts backing out (apparently under-torqued bolts are a common problem during the install). It could also be due to failure of the pressure plate "fingers", but that's unlikely.
By now, you may very well have screwed up the transmission, but that is probably due to trying to force it for a month instead of fixing it right away. Making those last three drag runs when it wasn't shifting properly was NOT a good idea.
If you get lucky, the trans MIGHT still be OK once you fix whatever is keeping the clutch from disengaging. I bet you'll find that the clutch itself is fine, though it probably also has some extra wear from driving it for a month while it isn't disengaging properly.
By now, you may very well have screwed up the transmission, but that is probably due to trying to force it for a month instead of fixing it right away. Making those last three drag runs when it wasn't shifting properly was NOT a good idea.
If you get lucky, the trans MIGHT still be OK once you fix whatever is keeping the clutch from disengaging. I bet you'll find that the clutch itself is fine, though it probably also has some extra wear from driving it for a month while it isn't disengaging properly.
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Originally Posted by Ferocity02
You are completely overexaggerating... Check the PP bolts, they have a tendancy to back out.
Even if the PP bolts are backing out.....what am I overexaggerating again?
Last edited by Schantin; 01-29-2006 at 05:42 PM.
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Originally Posted by sgarnett
.
By now, you may very well have screwed up the transmission, but that is probably due to trying to force it for a month instead of fixing it right away. Making those last three drag runs when it wasn't shifting properly was NOT a good idea.
If you get lucky, the trans MIGHT still be OK once you fix whatever is keeping the clutch from disengaging. I bet you'll find that the clutch itself is fine, though it probably also has some extra wear from driving it for a month while it isn't disengaging properly.
By now, you may very well have screwed up the transmission, but that is probably due to trying to force it for a month instead of fixing it right away. Making those last three drag runs when it wasn't shifting properly was NOT a good idea.
If you get lucky, the trans MIGHT still be OK once you fix whatever is keeping the clutch from disengaging. I bet you'll find that the clutch itself is fine, though it probably also has some extra wear from driving it for a month while it isn't disengaging properly.
Now, the 1st drag run...well, that's when I definetly realized a problem existed. should I have done the next two..... I agree that that wasn't a good idea. It was done more to confirm the problem than anything. But, yea, not a good idea.
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Originally Posted by Schantin
Overexggerating what? That my car doesn't shift gears? Do you "know" my car? Are you a Textrailia clutch distributor or something?
Even if the PP bolts are backing out.....what am I overexaggerating again?
Even if the PP bolts are backing out.....what am I overexaggerating again?
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I agree with the not disengaging properly,, is the pedal feel normal? did engagement points change on you? Even if your tranny needs a shiftfork or basic upgrades its really not as bad as you think. TRUST ME I KNOW.
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Regardless of what failed Pete and Jeff will stand behind their product and help you out, I don't know how you could have missed all the threads about their customer service. I'll bet your PP bolts backed out and nothing is damaged. My PP bolts backed out 300 miles from home in Austin traffic.
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Originally Posted by SPEEDYws6
Regardless of what failed Pete and Jeff will stand behind their product and help you out, I don't know how you could have missed all the threads about their customer service. I'll bet your PP bolts backed out and nothing is damaged. My PP bolts backed out 300 miles from home in Austin traffic.
As for people saying I wrote the clutch is junk...read carefully. I was very specific to say it was either the clutch OR the install. Hell, I paid to have it installed due to my busy work schedule (ie lack of time)...so I wasn't sitting in the shop and looking over the mechanic's shoulder while he put it in!! The shop that installed it very well could have F'd up and not put locktite on the pressure plate bolts. I don't know, at least until I disassemble the thing myself. I was looking for feedback, as when I bought it there was nothing on this clutch save for great reviews. This was a few months ago now...and sometimes problems are found after a while when several people are using a specific product.
Again, I'll keep everyone posted on what the final outcome is. I will say with confidence that the customer care provided with this clutch is worth the buying price Even with this "setback", I'm not left out to dry or having to buy another clutch. That's just unbelievably great in today's corporate world!!
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Yup, you can't beat Pete for customer service. I think anyone who has had an issue of any sort can attest to the fact that Pete has stood behind them 110% and done whatever it takes to ensure that at the end of the day they were 110% satisfied with the product. I think that speaks volumes about Pete.
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Well, I pulled the master cylinder line QD from the trans. Pedal was stiff as hell then. Guess the master cylinder's good. Damn....now I have to pull the trans and see what happened inside. I'll give an update Sturday on what I find.
BTW, for those thinking I was driving a month on a bad clutch. No. That problem WAS my IAC sensor, like I origonally suspected. I was driving on an iffy clutch about 2-4 days till I realized what was going wrong. Just setting the record straight.
BTW, for those thinking I was driving a month on a bad clutch. No. That problem WAS my IAC sensor, like I origonally suspected. I was driving on an iffy clutch about 2-4 days till I realized what was going wrong. Just setting the record straight.
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Originally Posted by YoungB@BYUNSPEED
That's great man. Glad to hear Pete worked it out for you quickly. I hope everything works out in the end. Please keep me updated also. If for any reason you cannot get a hold of Pete, call me.
#19
I hate to be the bad guy but you start the post with textralia clutch destroyed, bad clutch or install? You say you had a complete and total failure of my clutch. You say its all destroyed. You say that it will only go into gear with engine off. You clearly have no idea how the clutch system works. In another post you ask where is the bleed valve? Why start off a post with something you have no clue about. Your "clutch" is just fine and that is why you can't shift through gears when engine is running, your slave/throwout is not working properly. If the slave does not press the throwout bearing into the clutch fingers then the clutch wont release and you wont be able to shift. Other people have already mentioned the slave but you probably don't know what that is. Go buy a chiltons.
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Originally Posted by 67vette
I hate to be the bad guy but you start the post with textralia clutch destroyed, bad clutch or install? You say you had a complete and total failure of my clutch. You say its all destroyed. You say that it will only go into gear with engine off. You clearly have no idea how the clutch system works. In another post you ask where is the bleed valve? Why start off a post with something you have no clue about. Your "clutch" is just fine and that is why you can't shift through gears when engine is running, your slave/throwout is not working properly. If the slave does not press the throwout bearing into the clutch fingers then the clutch wont release and you wont be able to shift. Other people have already mentioned the slave but you probably don't know what that is. Go buy a chiltons.