INFERNO

iTrader: (2)

I have a 2001 LS1 motor in my 93Z. I finally started it up today and when pressing the clutch to the ground the trans won't go into gear. I started the car in gear with the pedal in the ground and the car will move slowly until I let off the pedal and then it will take off. If I want to shift I have to shut the car off and do the same thing. I got a master and slave off the board from a known good running car. The pedal is very soft to push down. This is how I bled it so far: 1ST I bled it just like a brake system - pump - push pedal - crack bleeder - and close. I got a pedal but still same problem. 2ND I used a mity vac sucking air from the resivoir with a tapered fitting in the hole - I saw air getting sucked up and I did this about 5 times and air won't stop and they are big bubbles too. Pedal feels good but still same problem 3RD I used the mityvac vacuum side on the slave cylinder and the fluid was getting sucked from the resivoir pretty quickly. I got a pedal but still no engagement. 4TH I took the line off the slave and put it in the resivoir with a pin holding the opening on the master open and bled the master using the clutch pedal and then bled the slave. still same thing. I spendt hours on this and it is pissing me off to no end. The clutch is bone stock (for now). What is going on? I miss the Lt1's pre bled system.

95maroman

Haha... i have the same exact problem and just posted a similar thread. When i start it in gear it does the same thing, it wont even budge when the car is running. Weird cuz i put my ls1 in my 95z, I wanna know what the problem is!!!!!
Dave

linegtdt52

iTrader: (12)

sounds like you misaligned the clutch on the install and it could be sticking out too far. If you press in the clutchall the way and it starts moving maybe you didnt set everything back far enough . also check the position of your throw out bearing. You cant adjust that clutch except to bleed air out of the line, sounds like something went wrong on the install and I would revaluate it.

INFERNO

iTrader: (2)

I thought that you just aligned with an old input shaft, and bolt it together. That is the way it was with my Lt1. Does the clutch, or flywheel need to be shimmed out towards the trans? That seems like it may be the problem becuase if I press the clutch pedal in all the way the car will still creep forward.

kenp

iTrader: (9)

Some of the aftermarket clutch/pressure plates require a shim between the slave and the transmission to set the engagement point higher on the pedal.

If you don't have the OEM clutch that may be the problem.

As has been stated in other threads, if you remove the line at the slave an push the clutch pedal and it is firm, your problem is not with the master or air in the master.

After you check that you may want to try a simple gravity bleed at the slave.

CODE4LS1

iTrader: (4)

Sounds to me like you may have put the disk in backwards? Just my .02

INFERNO

iTrader: (2)

I called spec to make sure and they said a shim is ok. I am going to add a shim between the crank and the flywheel

kenp

iTrader: (9)

That doesn't sound like a good idea. If the shim is not perfectly machined it will cause problems. On the other hand, shimming the slave from the transmission it isn't critical if the shim is not balanced or perfect. I would rethink this if I were you.

INFERNO

iTrader: (2)

I got the shim between the slave and the trans NOT the one behind the flywheel. The pedal travel is different but I am still having the same problem. I am totally stumped. Any one have any ideas?

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

I wouldn't be so hasty with that idea. Those symptoms are EXACTLY what my Textralia clutch is doing now. Everyone seems to think my problem is hydraulics on that one (still not sure, as the origonal and replacement master s are sitting here on the table next to me....)

Anyhow, the thing I noticed was your clutch bleed procedure. What you described is how I "thought" it was done. Pete from Textralia set me straight. Here's the procedure I was given:

Pump the clutch a couple times.
Crack the bleed screw open
Depress the clutch pedal to the floor (this is what's removing the air and pushing fluid)
CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW
then release the clutch pedal.
Repeat a few times.

Also, did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing? This puppy holds a lot of air otherwise.

Hope my $0.02 helps. I feel your pain, as I'm fixing the same exact prblem myself.

INFERNO

iTrader: (2)

I will try that bleeding method. I searched and coulnd't find anything on bleeding the master independently on the car. Is there any way, and if not what is the correct way to bleed it? I searched but found a couple of different ways. I hate to pull it but I guess I will have to.

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

To bleed the master cylinder separately is to "bench bleed". Done the same way, to a point. With the master cylinder out of the car (and preferably in a vice to free up a hand), hold the resevoir above the cylinder and make sure it's full of fluid. Let the QD line to the slave cylinder hang down. Pup the master cylinder piston a few times. Have a friend open the QD with a nail, awl, or similiar as you pump the cylinder. This will blow air and fluid through the system.

As a side note, you SHOULD be able to bleed everything like I posted earlier. If you have terrible issues and things just don't seem to work, then try the master cylinder bench bleed....followed by a regular clutch bleed.

I did this today. Bench bled the master cylinder first (as I replaced my stock one with the McCloud unit.). Bled the slave a total of 4X the way I described. The clutch was air free and feeling great. I had other issues....you can read those in my Textralia clutch thread (issues thanks to the $%^&* install I paid for at a "reputable" shop. )

Anyhow, I know the bleeding method I described works...since I did it less than 12 hours ago. Good luck

INFERNO

iTrader: (2)

Just in case somebody in the future searched this - The master's rod was not long enough. I have to move the silver eyelet rod 5/8 of an inch up on the brass colored rod and weld it. The master has enough fluid movement and the clutch works perfect. Apparently the clutch pedal setup is different on a Lt1 and LS1. I measured my friends LS1 and it is different from mine.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

I bled mine over night. And it took 2 days straight of it. such a beating. Wish I had a manual clutch setup.

455SD

for what its worth. I had this problem when I replaced my clutch (fly wheel included) with a stock clutch (had a gm certified mechanic helping me), Master and slave were working fine before the change. got it back together and the clutch would hardly disingage- blead it everyway known to man and got nowhere. was told about making the rod longer.but opted for a new master ...everything is fine now

02WS6Bird

iTrader: (2)

so would the problem most likely be improper install or hydraulics. When i did my install everything was perfectly aligned w/ my textralia clutch the problem lies somwhere else i hope hopefully the clutch. Now the system was drained of fluid due to firends hwho like to play w/ things while im working under the car. I'm praying that the master has air in it but you never know i guess

What do you guys think?

buschman

see sig link.

02WS6Bird

iTrader: (2)

so is it safe to say the master is my problem? or could it likely or just as likely be something else?

02WS6Bird

iTrader: (2)

when plugging back in the quick disconnect to the Slave does the bleeder screw HAVE to be open? Would that cause the air to travel back up into the master?

02WS6Bird

iTrader: (2)

Ok so i have a procedure NOW heres my other question

Thios relates to the Slave cylinder. When bleeding will there be a decent amougn of fluid that excapes into the bellhousing? because i seemed to have a fair amount that was ejected from the hydraulic system run into the bell housing. A mechanic i know said that if a clutch isnt disengaging it could be a cracked slave cylinder. Now i told him that when i had my trans pulled back when i first started bleeding, the throwout bearing flexed jsut as it should have. He said that means its probably notcracked, but since i put the tranny back onto the bellhousing i can not see it. what are the chances of the stock slave (a new GM one) w/ the stock shims and TO bearing being cracked and taking a Sh*t on me?