Schantin

iTrader: (6)

Well, sure many people hae read my related post on my clutch problems. I have a Textralia OZ700 clutch in my Camaro and experienced problems a week ago. The problem was not the clutch, but shoddy installation. The pressure plate bolts (which were coated in anti-seize and not lock-tite) had backed out. Four of these were at less than 10lbs of torque. I eplaced those and the flywheel bolts, which had an average torque of 55lbs.

Pete at Textralia stayed in constant contact with me, helping me diagnose my problem, guiding me through what to look for, and even fielding phone calls to verify torque specs. His customer service is the best I have ever experienced. That alone is worth the cost of this clutch.

Here's what REALLY suprised me. Pressure plate bolts backed off. Clutch isn't working worth a crap because of this. I limped the car about 15 miles with it in this condition from the track to the garage where I could fix it. I was pretty sure something had to be chewed up from that alone. Well, when I took the pressure plate and clutch disk off to replace the flywheel bolts (with ARP ones), I saw the clutch disk was in near new condition, the pressure plate surfaces looked good, and there were no hotspots on the flywheel. Speaks worlds for this clutch. Due to the previous install and the result of it, the pressure plate had a slight warp (about 1/16 of an inch.) Thankfully, this doesn't seem to have an efect on anything, as there is no clutch chatter when engaging gears and everything operates smoothly. The only "casualty" from the pressure plate bolts backing off was that the throwout bearing took a beating and the front plastic lip of it was chewed up. I replaced that and the slave, since I was already in there.

So, the car's back together and working wonderfully. I never realized just how bad this was affecting everything else (as it was probably happening gradually.) The car idles smoother, the UMI rear suspension seems better, and the car shifts gears smooth as can be. I haven't been whomping on the gas, but I gave it one stomp in 1st gear at 2K and things seem to be holding together as designed.

As a final note, the bleeding instructions Pete gave me worked flawlessly. Anyone having a problem bleeding their clutch need to try it this way:

1.Pump the clutch pedal a few times
2.Take your foot off the clutch
3.Have a friend crack the bleeder screw on the slave.
4.Depress the clutch pedal to the floor and HOLD IT THERE.
5.Close the slave bleed screw.
6.Take your foot off the clutch.
7.Repeat 4-5 times.

With a new slave and a bench bled master cylinder, it took 4 cycles of this procedure to get all the air out. I did it a 5th time for overkill, ut it really wasn't necessary. The hydraulics work great. No need for a mitivac or other devices.

So, once again, thanks Pete for all your help. Your clutch and your customer service are excellent and I'd happily recommend them to anyone. And if you live in Hawaii....PM me and I'll tell you where NOT to get a clutch installed in your car.

Keenov

iTrader: (5)

Isn't that the standard way of bleeding the slave cylinder

Glad everything worked out for you.

Luv2spdT/A

Good to hear everything worked out ok with the clutch. (I just ordered mine a few days ago)

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

Thanks. You'll be happy with the clutch (and the customer service.)

ddski

iTrader: (2)

hey man pm me where u got ur torque specs for the flywheel bolt and clutch bolts.