LS7 clutch install - shim slave? Quick answer please.
02-13-2006, 08:26 AM
#1
LS7 clutch install - shim slave? Quick answer please. My shop called me this morning to confirm whether or not the slave needed to be shimmed. Neither of us are interested in wasting time pulling the tranny again.
All new parts going in: OEM master, OEM slave, pilot bearing, LS7 clutch, Fidanza LS2-flywheel.
Also, does anyone know if the latest OEM master still has the line restriction in it?
All new parts going in: OEM master, OEM slave, pilot bearing, LS7 clutch, Fidanza LS2-flywheel.
Also, does anyone know if the latest OEM master still has the line restriction in it?
02-13-2006, 08:53 AM
#2
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I believe the restrictor is still in there. you can easily check following the instructions for the drill mod
I don't know about the shim. I didn't use one but I went with a Mcleod adjustable master.
DEE
I don't know about the shim. I didn't use one but I went with a Mcleod adjustable master.
DEE
02-13-2006, 09:05 PM
#7
I didn't know a measurement would tell you this...what's the procedure? I received a voicemail indicating they took it for a test drive and they thought it was too close to the floor without a shim. I haven't driven it yet, hopefully I can get over there tomorrow after work to see how it feels. The shop didn't mention anything about measuring it to determine which shim (if any) to install.
Will the friction point move as the clutch breaks-in and/or wears? Which way? The aforementioned shops didn't mention anything about a measuring procedure either
I wonder if the Fidanza LS2 flywheel is a hair thinner than the OEM LS2 flywheel, which would mimic having the OEM one resurfaced and thus needing a shim?
Will the friction point move as the clutch breaks-in and/or wears? Which way? The aforementioned shops didn't mention anything about a measuring procedure either
I wonder if the Fidanza LS2 flywheel is a hair thinner than the OEM LS2 flywheel, which would mimic having the OEM one resurfaced and thus needing a shim?
Last edited by JimMueller; 02-13-2006 at 09:10 PM.
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02-14-2006, 05:01 PM
#11
Took the car for a test drive in the shop parking lot. It went into gear the first time while the clutch was disengaged. Stopped to pull out on a side street and it didn't come out of gear easily, and wouldn't go back into any gear while the engine was running.
Turned off the engine, put it in reverse, started engine, backed up, couldn't get it into 1st, stopped engine, put it into gear, started engine and re-parked car. Even starting the car in 1st or reverse, the car wouldn't lunge when started.
I asked the shop foreman if we could measure to determine how thick of a shim I'd need and he said they couldn't because it's a sealed bellhousing. So, 4 more hours of shop labor to take another guess
So I don't know how my vehicle is any different, but mine needs at least one shim.
Turned off the engine, put it in reverse, started engine, backed up, couldn't get it into 1st, stopped engine, put it into gear, started engine and re-parked car. Even starting the car in 1st or reverse, the car wouldn't lunge when started.
I asked the shop foreman if we could measure to determine how thick of a shim I'd need and he said they couldn't because it's a sealed bellhousing. So, 4 more hours of shop labor to take another guess
So I don't know how my vehicle is any different, but mine needs at least one shim.
02-14-2006, 06:11 PM
#12
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After my install it worked great for about 40 miles then I lost 1-3-5 all together it would go in and jump out like it wasnt going into gear right. That only happened to me once and it works great now. The clutch it self is suppose to adjust after usage. You might want to try to make your master adjustable or by an adjustable master cylinder. Not sure if the flywheel you bought is thinner. Might want to give the maker a call for specs before you go tearing it apart again.
02-15-2006, 03:22 PM
#13
Originally Posted by P Mack
You can measure the distance from the clutch fingers to the bellhousing face, and the distance from the transmission front plate to the compressed throwout bearing face and subtract to get the free play before the slave contacts the clutch fingers.
09-02-2011, 01:30 PM
#15
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Took the car for a test drive in the shop parking lot. It went into gear the first time while the clutch was disengaged. Stopped to pull out on a side street and it didn't come out of gear easily, and wouldn't go back into any gear while the engine was running.
Turned off the engine, put it in reverse, started engine, backed up, couldn't get it into 1st, stopped engine, put it into gear, started engine and re-parked car. Even starting the car in 1st or reverse, the car wouldn't lunge when started.
I asked the shop foreman if we could measure to determine how thick of a shim I'd need and he said they couldn't because it's a sealed bellhousing. So, 4 more hours of shop labor to take another guess
So I don't know how my vehicle is any different, but mine needs at least one shim.
Turned off the engine, put it in reverse, started engine, backed up, couldn't get it into 1st, stopped engine, put it into gear, started engine and re-parked car. Even starting the car in 1st or reverse, the car wouldn't lunge when started.
I asked the shop foreman if we could measure to determine how thick of a shim I'd need and he said they couldn't because it's a sealed bellhousing. So, 4 more hours of shop labor to take another guess
So I don't know how my vehicle is any different, but mine needs at least one shim.
09-02-2011, 02:04 PM
#16
This was over 5 years ago, but to the best of my recollection the shim raised the pedal where it was drivable but I still wasn't happy with the friction point. I've only used the LS7 clutch since then but I've been using the Tick adjustable master cylinder with the stock LS7 components without a shim for a few years now. Very happy with that combination.
09-03-2011, 05:42 PM
#17
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I jist replaced my Textralia OZ700 with a LS7 clutch this last week. I did not use any shims and the clutch works fine.
The symptoms you are describing sound more like air in the hydraulics. I had to bleed the slave 3x (and probably need to do it a 4th time to be honest). Sometimes when cold on initial startup I'll have to press the clutch 2x to get the pressure needed for it to easily go into gear. I do have a McCloud Master Cylinder, but had the same issue with the OZ700 (which definetily does NOT need a shim). Through the 3x bleed process for my new LS7 clutch, the clutch has gotten better and now I only need to "double pump" it possibly once out of every 10 start cycles.
So, I don't belive you need a shim. I think the issue is residual air in the hydraulics. It is a total PITA to get all the air out, aand just a little bit wreacks havoc on the engagement. The shop needs to take that extra 30min to get all the air out. They might even need to resort to a MitiVac or similiar to suck the air from the system.
Good luck to ya'.
The symptoms you are describing sound more like air in the hydraulics. I had to bleed the slave 3x (and probably need to do it a 4th time to be honest). Sometimes when cold on initial startup I'll have to press the clutch 2x to get the pressure needed for it to easily go into gear. I do have a McCloud Master Cylinder, but had the same issue with the OZ700 (which definetily does NOT need a shim). Through the 3x bleed process for my new LS7 clutch, the clutch has gotten better and now I only need to "double pump" it possibly once out of every 10 start cycles.
So, I don't belive you need a shim. I think the issue is residual air in the hydraulics. It is a total PITA to get all the air out, aand just a little bit wreacks havoc on the engagement. The shop needs to take that extra 30min to get all the air out. They might even need to resort to a MitiVac or similiar to suck the air from the system.
Good luck to ya'.
