Redneck Z

iTrader: (3)

My is a 98, but when I bought the car it had a new 01-02 slave cylinder/clutch put in. After installing JBA(chrome/nickel) shorties, I've had trouble with the clutch sticking to the floor on high rpm shifts. I assumed that since it started after the header install, that it must be heat from the headers boiling the fluid in the slave-master line. I insulated the line, and it still does it. I was thinking of trying the "drill mod", but would this help since I already have the 01-02 slave? Isn't the restriction that needs drilling out, in the line itself. If it is, then I would need to do the drill mod even though I have the updated slave cylinder right??

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

You need to do the drill mod regardless, all MC lines have the restriction.

Redneck Z

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! I've heard mixed responses, so it's nice to get clarification.

Keysplayr

But would this explain why his clutch pedal is sticking to the floor? I mean, hundreds of thousands of hydraulic clutch t-56 owners do not have this problem (including me) without the drill mod. I can understand the DOT3 fluid boiling and changing its hydraulic properties by aerating it, but he has since insulated, and I HOPE completely changed out his fluid and bled properly.

There is one other thing I have thought about with this problem. What if, when the fluid boils due to header heat, the inside of the hydraulic line becomes damaged and starts to degrade? Enough small particles from detioration could collect and block flow, maybe? I know this problem has been a real PITA for some people and everything under the sun has been discussed. I think, that once the fluid boils, the hydraulic line should be replaced. Also, inside the reservoir, there is that rubber diaphram. I have noticed that degrades as well over time. All these little particles can add up over time and can be a part of a compound problem.

Just trying to help out by thinking as logically as I can about this. If this has been explored already, my apologies.

Starz T/A 17

iTrader: (6)

If you just replaced the slave clyinder their could be a chance the master cylinder is going out

Redneck Z

iTrader: (3)

The clutch sticking seems to be heat related. The hotter my car is and the higher rpm's I'm at, the worse it is. I'm thinking that my headers cooked the fluid, and if I do the drill mod, bleed it real good and replace the fluid with some good synthetic fluid that it take care of it. How would I know if my master is bad(doubt it)? What is a good synthetic fluid that has a high boiling point, and is compatible with the GM system?

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

I just put in Valvoline DOT 3/4 Synthetic. The non synthetic that came out was black. Now if I could only bleed my slave I'd be in great shape.

Starz T/A 17

iTrader: (6)

Im replaceing my master and slave clyinder and it says not to use synthetic fluid

Redneck Z

iTrader: (3)

I wonder why people recommend it then? What will happen if you use synthetic fluid? I was hoping to get some fluid with a higher boiling point. Maybe I'll have to use even more heat shielding around my master-slave line....

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

The recomendation is not to use a DOT V Synthetic. Valvoline Synpower is a DOT IV that has a boiling point of over 500 degrees. Most conventional DOT 3's boil at 284 -300 degrees. I bleed a whole bottle thru my system twice a year before and after race season. I've done the drill mod and my line is very well insulated. I've had no problems with a sticking clutch even after two b2b hotlaps in 90+ weather.

There are fluids even better than the Valvoline but they get really $$ for small amounts.

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

This is product info from Valvolines site, not to hijack the thread.

SynPower High Performance Synthetic Brake Fluid is recommended for ABS, hydraulic drum and disc braking systems and hydraulic clutches requiring DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. Its premium, synthetic, low-moisture formulation provides superior anti-vapor lock protection. It has a high dry-boiling point up to 500°F that reduces the risk of fluid vaporization and possible brake failure.

Exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications
For most ABS, disc or drum brake systems
High boiling point reduces risk of brake failure
Compatible with conventional brake fluids

Redneck Z

iTrader: (3)

So is the Valvoline synthetic one of the best? What are some of the better more pricey$$ fluids. I don't care how much I have to spend to get my clutch pedal to work lol!