clutch stuck to the floor?
04-10-2006, 10:09 AM
#1
clutch stuck to the floor? so i went to the track yesterday to see if i couldnt break into the 12s. and i made a 13.19 pass with a crappy 2.1 60'. then i went to try again to see if i could launch a little better to get in the 12s. so i did my burnout fine, didi my launch ok then when i tried to shift to second i pushed the clutch down and when i released it, it didnt come back up and stayed glued to the floor. what could this be? i heard that i could of overheated it but i dont know jack about clutches.
04-10-2006, 02:56 PM
#2
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It could be like mine recently that was stuck to the floor. I had a bent connecting rod and my master cyclinder went out. Mine however was more progressive sounding than yours in that my gears became choppy to get into (especially reverse) and the pedal wouldn't retract as far till the point that it just stayed on the floor. Replaced both and is fine now.
I'm sure you have done this, but have you checked your fluid height to see if it's low?
I'm sure you have done this, but have you checked your fluid height to see if it's low?
04-10-2006, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Viplort
It could be like mine recently that was stuck to the floor. I had a bent connecting rod and my master cyclinder went out. Mine however was more progressive sounding than yours in that my gears became choppy to get into (especially reverse) and the pedal wouldn't retract as far till the point that it just stayed on the floor. Replaced both and is fine now.
I'm sure you have done this, but have you checked your fluid height to see if it's low?
I'm sure you have done this, but have you checked your fluid height to see if it's low?
Would a clutch give symptoms before going out? The damn thing grabs like crazy...no slippage at all, jut having problems with the pedal.
04-10-2006, 03:25 PM
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Are you leaking any fluid?
Ecko70 the creaking is the little spring on the clutch pedal. Mine did the same thing. I replaced my hydrolics and did the drill mod and haven't had a problem since.
Ecko70 the creaking is the little spring on the clutch pedal. Mine did the same thing. I replaced my hydrolics and did the drill mod and haven't had a problem since.
04-10-2006, 03:37 PM
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Fluid is gray and yes I have stuff leaking out of the bell housing. I talked to my mechanic as well as the lady from T-56rebulds. I said screw it and ordered the LS7 package with a Mcleod mc
04-10-2006, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ecko70
What were your symptons? Im having problems with the pedal creaking and sticking along with not being able to get into gear very easily. Im HOPING its just the master and not the clutch.
Would a clutch give symptoms before going out? The damn thing grabs like crazy...no slippage at all, jut having problems with the pedal.
Would a clutch give symptoms before going out? The damn thing grabs like crazy...no slippage at all, jut having problems with the pedal.
Mine were notchey shifting into 1st and very hard to put into reverse. The clutch engage/disengage was happening at the bottom (towards the floor when pushing in the clutch pedal), this due from the low level of fluid I'm sure and continued to get worse until I pushed it all the way down to the floor and held it there and it didn't return. The rod was somehow broke and the master failed. (This thing was probably failing originally since I had just replaced my transmission 150 miles earlier and now this) Now these clutches do shift notchey from the factory I hear, but as far as warning signs I would say "slipping" of the clutch would be a common one if it's shot or very worn down, which you say isn't an issue.
Have you tried to adjust the pedal at all? If there is any leakage from your master / slave and it gets onto the clutch this can ruin it as well (if you have a leak).
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04-10-2006, 04:08 PM
#8
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Mine also occasionally is a little slow to return to the up position, but that's only if I really really get on it, and shift hard into 3rd. That damn gear just never wants to engage quite right lol
1st VROOm
2nd VRoom
3rd CLUNK GRRRRRRIIINNND
Oh well I hear that's real common with a hydraulic clutch setup.
1st VROOm
2nd VRoom
3rd CLUNK GRRRRRRIIINNND
Oh well I hear that's real common with a hydraulic clutch setup.
04-11-2006, 08:36 AM
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If the fluid turns colors it could be a couple of things. but if you have headers it's usually the driver's side header getting too close to the hydraulic line and cooking the fluid. Especially if you notice it right after a big burnout. Think about it. The motor is working it's *** off(ie generating a lot of heat) but you aren't moving anywhere(ie no air flow to cool). Perfect condition to cook your hydraulic fluid.
Now if you see it leaking out of the bellhousing then you have a blown slave cylinder. You should also notice that your resevior is low, if not empty.
I got a heat shield sleeve to cover my hydraulic line and that seems to help.
Mike
Now if you see it leaking out of the bellhousing then you have a blown slave cylinder. You should also notice that your resevior is low, if not empty.
I got a heat shield sleeve to cover my hydraulic line and that seems to help.
Mike
04-11-2006, 08:39 AM
#12
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The fluid level is fine oddly enough. Its a very slight drip. And yes I do have aftermarket headers. Planning to heatwrap and redirect the new master once it gets installed.
04-11-2006, 11:31 AM
#14
I got all new hydraulics and bled like crazy and still had the same problem. I also covered my hydraulic lines. The only way I was able to fix this was by setting my adjustable master cylinder to be a little longer than stock. About 1/8 of an inch. Works like a charm now.
Just my .02 cents.
Just my .02 cents.
04-12-2006, 05:42 PM
#15
ugh
I Have this now
originally after H/C intake and Mac headers it would do it after 3-4 hard pulls
now it does it after one WOT blast through 1-2 and 3rd is a crapshoot.
I've read the posts re: this issue and I'm totally confused
Should I start saving for an LS7 setup, slave and master cyl?
then heatmask the crap outa the lines?
my clutch grabs ok, I hate to sink $ into that now if there's a workaround
damm LS1 clutches.
I Have this now
originally after H/C intake and Mac headers it would do it after 3-4 hard pulls
now it does it after one WOT blast through 1-2 and 3rd is a crapshoot.
I've read the posts re: this issue and I'm totally confused
Should I start saving for an LS7 setup, slave and master cyl?
then heatmask the crap outa the lines?
my clutch grabs ok, I hate to sink $ into that now if there's a workaround
damm LS1 clutches.
04-12-2006, 05:52 PM
#16
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not meaning to jack thread at all, but i seem to have this problem quite frequently. my clutch feels gummy all the time and a few weeks ago after a good race i'd get that bad clutch smell afterwards. About a month before that I let my car sit and finally decided to take her out weeks later.. got on it and the clutch actually catched for once. Now when I get on her the clutch doesn't smell, but it seems like it isn't catching like it's suppose to and feels more gummy afterwards? I believe it's slipping- any other help/ideas? I'm pretty sure I'm going to need a new clutch, but just making sure-- Thanks to all.
04-12-2006, 11:06 PM
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I'm certainly no pro, but I thought I burnt up my clutch and bought a Mcleod replacement. When i pulled it out much to my surprise the stock clutch disk had plenty of material left. It was my hydraulics that had let go. Probably a bad slave cylinder. If you have an older slave cylinder that's a good place to start. that being said if you're going to pull the tranny to replace the slave it's probably a good idea to put in a better clutch. But you know you could avoid that if you really wanted to save some $$$. Also rebleeding and/or changing the hydraulic fluid could also help with a lot of these problems.
Best of luck,
Mike
Best of luck,
Mike
