Josh

iTrader: (9)

Hey Guys,

I've had my Spec 3 for about 18 months now, and it's really starting to aggervate me. Even when it was new, it engaged suddenly, making it a real bear to drive. I suppose after putting up with it for this long, I'm just getting sick of it.

Essentially, the clutch pedal travels 1/4 of its throw, then the clutch suddenly engages. Is this how most Spec 3s are? I was under the impression it was one of the most streetable aftermarket clutches out there, but I'm finding it to be anything but streetable.

I replaced the slave, but still have the stock master cylinder. I also had the flywheel resurfaced when the clutch was installed.

Thanks,
Josh

monsterls1

iTrader: (8)

My Spec 3 is like that also,but my car is not street driven too much so it doesn't bother me that much( I will be stepping up to a Spec 4 next month). From what I know, after the Spec 2 the clutches slowly become more of an on/off switch which is what the Spec 5 is, it's just the price we pay for a high performance clutch.

kenkaru

That's normal for a high perf clutch. If it engaged slowly, it would just over heat and you'd have a glazed clutch just like the stock one does. Yes, it's PITA for a daily driver but it's better than putting in a new clutch every month.

Based on your mods, I'd recommend getting a poly trans mount and poly engine mounts since they will give you a more direct feeling with the clutch, allowing you to ease it out a little more. If you didn't have the mods, I'd say get a stage 2 but I don't know how long it would last.

Josh

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the input, guys. Would an adjustable master help at all? Or an upgraded stock master, for that matter?

Josh

kenkaru

An adj master would just allow you to adjust where, in the 5 inches of pedal travel, the 1/4 inch engagement would occur. Wouldn't really help a whole lot IMO.

One thing you can do to make it smoother is to rev it up more. If you're like me, you don't really like making a crap load of noise EVERYWHERE you drive but the higher you rev it before letting out the clutch, the smoother it will be. This is because when you rev it up, you'll be making enough power to overpower the grippy clutch and make it slip a little.

Also, when you take off, push the gas to the desired degree, HOLD it there, and then ease the clutch pedal out only, instead of doing the regular "press gas and release clutch simultaneously"
I drive around with a spec III in the city and it sucks but I hate replacing the clutch so that's the trade-off for a clutch that will last I guess.

01Generalee

iTrader: (1)

ive gota stage 3 and i have the same problem, ive gotta replace it now. Im going to go with something milder and more streetable

LastHawk02

iTrader: (1)

did you keep the stock flywheel?

Josh

iTrader: (9)

Yes, it was resurfaced when the clutch was installed.

Josh

Rob Hood

I'm experiencing the same problem with my LS6 clutch. 12k miles and it still has a very high engagement point. Do all LS6 clutches engage like this?

ninetres

iTrader: (35)

I drove my buddys spec 5 and it was actually quite pleasent....and not an on/off switch.

Of course it grabbed a lot harder/faster than a stock clutch, just not an on/off switch. I loved it and will buy one for my next clutch despite the gay squeel.

Krab

iTrader: (28)

Lately, I've felt my Spec 3 doing the same also. I've had it for about 15K miles now and it's starting to get on my nerves also. I'm looking to replace it with an ls6 clutch when the time comes. I hear it's very streetable.

BlackHawk131

iTrader: (31)

You should make a point to replace all parts when doing a clutch install. Mine still shuttered until I replaced the master. All other parts were replaced during the install. I also installed the spec spacer for the slave cylinder.